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Geoff Davis

DSM5075 Margaery Tyrell

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As the colors look good, and you did ask for some critique, here are my thoughts. Please take them as you will.

 

#1: It looks as if the primer was a little grainy, which doesn't help in making nice, smooth blends, and layers. 

#2: The paint looks chalky, and thick. I would thin it down to the consistency of milk. That will help in building up your layers of color. 

#3: The mini painters mantra. Darker shadows, higher highlights. If you think you've gone far enough, do one more step in either direction. 

#4: Doing step three will help in delineating between cloth, jewelry, weapons, etc...as you don't want to paint over the deepest shadows. 

#5: Her face was rough for me too, as it's so dang small! The eyes are good, the skin just needs to be smoothed out. Using some of the mid-tone as a glaze would help with that. I had to do that last night on a mini because my shadow wasn't dark enough. The best parts for your final highlights on her face are the tip of her nose, eyebrow ridge, top part of her cheeks, and her chin. 

#6: The design on her dress, while good, needs to be a bit bolder. Make it pop out more by darkening it just a bit. That we we can tell that there is a design there. 

#7: I would like to have seen the flowers on her tiara, wrists, waist, and neckline painted as flowers, and not just gold. I may have done the same thing, I think I painted the tiara as flowers though. If you want I can post a photo of the one I did. 

 

Again, take these as you will. Just some thoughts as I was looking at your work. Keep going, cause you're doing a good job on these smaller than Reaper figures. 

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31 minutes ago, Darius Glenwell said:

As the colors look good, and you did ask for some critique, here are my thoughts. Please take them as you will.

 

#4: Doing step three will help in delineating between cloth, jewelry, weapons, etc...as you don't want to paint over the deepest shadows. 

 

 

Thank you very much for taking the time to provide detailed observations.  I am reaching the point where I need specific advice to be able to continue to improve and this is very helpful.

 

I am uncertain about what you mean in number 4 by "painting over the deepest shadows".  Do you mean that by increasing the contrast between shadow and highlight in each area of detail that it will look more naturally seperated rather than looking like it was blacklined (like it does around the gold areas)?

 

Thanks again for your comments.

 

Geoff

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She looks lovely!  

 

As for the shadows between skin and other objects (and light skin in general), I found this video tremendously helpful.  Although your figure may be a little small for this.

 

 

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That was a very informative video.  Ì had the general gist of the concepts already but was missing the critical concept of repeating the process multple times over to achieve colour saturation and smooth blending.  I will work on it for future projects.  Thanks for the suggestion.

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Ok, I have say Thanks again for that link.  That video has radically changed the way I paint.  Worth watching start to finish and following along and doing as he says.  

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Beautiful work, I like the freehand you painted on blouse. I think it normal to see grainy surfaces if you painted her on and off. When you apply many successive layers on a surface it's hard to make it look smooth. The key to smooth surfaces is using wet paint. Not to wet so it will spill everywhere, but humid enough that it will spreed easily.

 

When I paint, I make sure to blend and applay sucessive layers before the previous layer totaly dry, it's especially truth when I paint a flat surefaces. The first layer absorbe some of the second layer paint and the tones mix better. I think it's easier to get a smooth gradiant this way. Much harder if the surface is already dry and you try to blend another tone over it.

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If things start getting chalky on you, it's a sign to thin your paint more.  I have found using a larger brush helps too as the paint is less likely to dry up in the brush and thus applies smoother. A nice #2 from scharff is mostly what I use.  Paradoxically this also helps get fine details so long as you have the right amount of paint in your brush, I dip the tip in my wet pallet and then wipe on my thumb until it looks right.  Obviously this takes practice.

 

A couple of things you can do to fix it when paint goobers up like that, a little gloss varnish in one layer can resmooth a mildly chalky surface.  The big balls that form can be carefully removed with a scalpel.

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On 4/21/2018 at 10:04 AM, Geoff Davis said:

Ok, I have say Thanks again for that link.  That video has radically changed the way I paint.  Worth watching start to finish and following along and doing as he says.  

 

I've taken a bit of a break over the last couple weeks due to life but I've been watching tons of his videos. Can't wait to start applying what I think I've learned.

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