Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 13
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

As the colors look good, and you did ask for some critique, here are my thoughts. Please take them as you will.

 

#1: It looks as if the primer was a little grainy, which doesn't help in making nice, smooth blends, and layers. 

#2: The paint looks chalky, and thick. I would thin it down to the consistency of milk. That will help in building up your layers of color. 

#3: The mini painters mantra. Darker shadows, higher highlights. If you think you've gone far enough, do one more step in either direction. 

#4: Doing step three will help in delineating between cloth, jewelry, weapons, etc...as you don't want to paint over the deepest shadows. 

#5: Her face was rough for me too, as it's so dang small! The eyes are good, the skin just needs to be smoothed out. Using some of the mid-tone as a glaze would help with that. I had to do that last night on a mini because my shadow wasn't dark enough. The best parts for your final highlights on her face are the tip of her nose, eyebrow ridge, top part of her cheeks, and her chin. 

#6: The design on her dress, while good, needs to be a bit bolder. Make it pop out more by darkening it just a bit. That we we can tell that there is a design there. 

#7: I would like to have seen the flowers on her tiara, wrists, waist, and neckline painted as flowers, and not just gold. I may have done the same thing, I think I painted the tiara as flowers though. If you want I can post a photo of the one I did. 

 

Again, take these as you will. Just some thoughts as I was looking at your work. Keep going, cause you're doing a good job on these smaller than Reaper figures. 

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
31 minutes ago, Darius Glenwell said:

As the colors look good, and you did ask for some critique, here are my thoughts. Please take them as you will.

 

#4: Doing step three will help in delineating between cloth, jewelry, weapons, etc...as you don't want to paint over the deepest shadows. 

 

 

Thank you very much for taking the time to provide detailed observations.  I am reaching the point where I need specific advice to be able to continue to improve and this is very helpful.

 

I am uncertain about what you mean in number 4 by "painting over the deepest shadows".  Do you mean that by increasing the contrast between shadow and highlight in each area of detail that it will look more naturally seperated rather than looking like it was blacklined (like it does around the gold areas)?

 

Thanks again for your comments.

 

Geoff

Link to post
Share on other sites

That was a very informative video.  Ì had the general gist of the concepts already but was missing the critical concept of repeating the process multple times over to achieve colour saturation and smooth blending.  I will work on it for future projects.  Thanks for the suggestion.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Beautiful work, I like the freehand you painted on blouse. I think it normal to see grainy surfaces if you painted her on and off. When you apply many successive layers on a surface it's hard to make it look smooth. The key to smooth surfaces is using wet paint. Not to wet so it will spill everywhere, but humid enough that it will spreed easily.

 

When I paint, I make sure to blend and applay sucessive layers before the previous layer totaly dry, it's especially truth when I paint a flat surefaces. The first layer absorbe some of the second layer paint and the tones mix better. I think it's easier to get a smooth gradiant this way. Much harder if the surface is already dry and you try to blend another tone over it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

If things start getting chalky on you, it's a sign to thin your paint more.  I have found using a larger brush helps too as the paint is less likely to dry up in the brush and thus applies smoother. A nice #2 from scharff is mostly what I use.  Paradoxically this also helps get fine details so long as you have the right amount of paint in your brush, I dip the tip in my wet pallet and then wipe on my thumb until it looks right.  Obviously this takes practice.

 

A couple of things you can do to fix it when paint goobers up like that, a little gloss varnish in one layer can resmooth a mildly chalky surface.  The big balls that form can be carefully removed with a scalpel.

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 4/21/2018 at 10:04 AM, Geoff Davis said:

Ok, I have say Thanks again for that link.  That video has radically changed the way I paint.  Worth watching start to finish and following along and doing as he says.  

 

I've taken a bit of a break over the last couple weeks due to life but I've been watching tons of his videos. Can't wait to start applying what I think I've learned.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By TaleSpinner
      For the ReaperCon MSP Open this year, I painted the master copy of the White Drake I sculpted for Dark Sword (it will be released for sale in 2022).  I decided to do him in glacial coloration inspired by a glacier I saw while on a cruise in AK.
       
      For the Sculpting story, click here.
      For the Painting WIP, click here.
       
      Oh, and I won a gold medal for him in the Open category. 
       
       (Bear in mind that that is a 1" base)

       

       

    • By 72moonglum
      Greetings to those of the Clan Reaper!
       
      I think this has got to be one of the quirkiest figures I've painted, a Chickinasaurus sculpted by Tom Meier from his Sparkle and Savage range, from Theoland! 
       
      I was a bit confused as to what colors to make him, so thinking about chickens, I tried to imitate a nice brown chicken with a green tail, hopefully he turned out okay:
       

       
      a really nice and simple figure to actually paint!
    • By 72moonglum
      Hello Reaperlonians!
       
      Here's one I just finished, a pretty simple miniature, Whaleboy, from Tom Meier's Sparkle and Savage range with Thunderbolt Mountain, that he sculpted for his kids. There's a Squidboy too that I hope to get painted one of these days:
       

       
      A very enjoyable figure to paint!
    • By 72moonglum
      So hello there all you Reaperlies!
       
      So here is Squidboy, a figure sculpted by Tom Meier originally for his Thunderbolt Mountain range and currently available out at Ral Partha Legacy.
       
      The hardest thing with this figure was to figure out what color are squids and eventually made him pink.
       

       
      Judging by his t-shirt, I have a feeling he is supposed to be the archenemy of Whaleboy, in a recent posting of mine.
       
      Anyways, please enjoy!
    • By TaleSpinner
      I've been working on my drakes/dragons for what feels like forever now.  Last week, Jim of Dark Sword brought me a copy of the metal masters for the small versions of them as they are being prepared for casting.  He gave me permission to paint one up as my ReaperCon entry, despite their not being released yet.  So here goes...
       
      If you want to read the whole tale on the sculpting of these drakes, check out this thread in the sculpting section.
       
      After prepping the mini, I primed it with my airbrush, using stylrnez.
       

       
       
      About 6 months ago, I had started painting a resin prototype of this mini that I had printed.  That mini was a bit too small and had some errors in the scales on its tail, so I abandoned it.  That said, I am sticking fairly close to the color concept I had with that one and will be using it as a preliminary sketch of where I want this one to go.  Here is that sketch model:
       

       
       
      On Saturday, I got together with a bunch of friends to work on our Open entries and I began the painting in earnest,  All paints are MSP.  The dorsal scales are based in Sharkbite, the sides in Marid Blue, and the belly in Grindylow Green. The belly was washed in a mix of Grindylow Green and Clear Pthalo Green.  I have more work to do on that shading yet though.  I then shaded the sides down to Sharkbite.  I also have more work to do on the deepest shadows there yet after I get the highlights done.
       

       

       
      I also painted the eyes and teeth. 
       
       
      Yesterday, I highlight the sides up to white and based the claws in Drow Skin.
       

       

       
       
      I plan on spending every night this week working on it and have Friday off as well.  I hope I can be done on Friday, but we'll see.  I do have all my classes prepped, so am ready for ReaperCon other than this project and one other metal work project I have going.  It is going to be a busy week though.
  • Who's Online   9 Members, 0 Anonymous, 42 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...