KenCM Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Getting back into painting minis after 5 years or so. I'm rusty, Ive never been great. I picked up the Reaper Learn to paint Layer up set for tips and re learning basics. I'm trying to do the pirate. Going by the book, says basecoat for the pants is Heather Blue, no mixing, no deluting with water. So I put 4 drops on my pallete, start to paint the pants. I'm moving and a couple of places that I know I covered don't look like they are covered at all. Just blank spots. So I wait for the first coat to dry and put on the second coat. Same places, same white spots. What's going on? Why isn't the paint staying where I'm putting it when I'm doing exactly like the instructions say? Very frustrated. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhiteWulfe Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Others with more experience (and an actual keyboard to type with) will more than likely reply soon, but a few questions do come to mind: - Were the paints shaken up prior to being dropped onto the palette? Paint that isn't fully mixed can occasionally cause issues. - Was the miniature washed before painting started? Mould release agents (which are sprayed on to prevent the miniature from sticking to the metal molds) can cause issues with paint sticking, as will natural oils released by your skin. Does it seem like shortly after you brush paint across the mini that the paint seems to bead up in areas, or even pull away from the mini? 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inarah Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Is this a Bones plastic figure? Did you wash it with soap first? Does it have primer? Did you shake the paint very well before starting? VERY well? Did you get your brush wet before dipping it into the paint? Even a little water can thin it too much. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenCM Posted March 19, 2018 Author Share Posted March 19, 2018 I forgot to wash, but I did shake well and the book that comes with says you don't need to prime it. I made sure brush was dry every time. Paint seems to move from the spot on the mini right after I paint it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyradis Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Bones is hydrophobic. If the paint or brush is too wet, it will leave blank spots. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inarah Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Not washing it is probably the issue. There's a bit of mold release or finger oil on the figure, and it's keeping the paint from sticking. I would: 1. let the paint dry completely 2. get a wet cotton swab and the tiniest dab of soap and wash that area, being careful not to rub off your paint. 3. rinse 4. dry completely and try again Despite what the instructions say I have found Bones take paint much better after they've been primed. Reaper sells a nice brush-on primer in white and black. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenCM Posted March 19, 2018 Author Share Posted March 19, 2018 (edited) Thanks for the tips everyone. Any way I can get the paint off totally, give it a good wash and start over? Only other part of Mini I have done is the sword blade. Edited March 19, 2018 by KenCM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ced1106 Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Start painting. Don't worry about it. I repainted a horse miniature four times because I couldn't get an effect right. No problems. BTW, Pick up some Reaper Brown Liner when you get a chance. See the Bones threads about using Brown Liner right on the model before painting! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Jack Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 If you're going to start over from the beginning, dunk them in some Simple Green or Pinesol for about half an hour or an hour - then give them a scrub with an old toothbrush and the paint will come right off. Don't leave plastics in there for longer than a day or two at a time, though. And they shouldn't need much longer than that unless you're using enamel paint or it's been on the mini for longer than a year. On a side note: If you're going to be relearning the basics, never strip your minis unless there's a physical issue with the paint. You don't want to get into the bad habit of dunking them and starting over every time something goes wrong. Learning from your mistakes, and learning how to fix them is one of the things you need to master in order to progress as a painter. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophie was taken Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 (edited) 5 hours ago, Cyradis said: Bones is hydrophobic. If the paint or brush is too wet, it will leave blank spots. This. Even after washing, and soaping, and scrubbing, and drying, each mini in the kit (and many others) just wouldn’t take certain paints easily. Your best bet is to just keep trying to cover the spots, slowly moving inward from where the paint did stick until it gives up. It will eventually. Edited March 20, 2018 by Sophie was taken 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyradis Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 3 minutes ago, Sophie was taken said: This. Even after washing, and soaping, and scrubbing, and drying, each mini in the kit (and many others) just wouldn’t take certain paints easily. Your best bet is to just keep trying to cover the spots, slowly moving inward from where the paint did stick until it gives up. It will eventually. I'd do that for the paint already on there, but change how you apply future brush-loads. Blot that brush out before putting paint on it, and don't thin the paint for the base coat. I'm pretty terrible about remembering to wash my figures, especially Bones. That rarely gets me. A damp brush sure will. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMandolin Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 In the beginning (of my two months long painting career ), I found that my wet palette sponge had too much water in it, so that when I was applying a base coat (per LTPK instructions) of straight paint, the paper was adding too much moisture and I was sort of unintentionally thinning the paint down. Also shaking the paints, I would shake for one 10-15 seconds but really it needs to be much longer than that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rfusca Posted March 22, 2018 Share Posted March 22, 2018 While Bones don't *need* primer. It will certainly make your life easier. Liner first or badger stynylrez primer (brushed or airbrushed) will make the whole project less finicky. Its worth the extra step IMO. Have to do it? No. Should you? Yes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyradis Posted March 22, 2018 Share Posted March 22, 2018 I also wouldn't bother with giving Bones the green bath unless it is a larger figure like a dragon or somesuch. Bones human-size figures are cheap. May as well let goofed up figures stay as-is, and pick up new ones. You'll see your progress as you go, and save the effort. I put a date on the bottom of my figures so that it is easy to tell how I've changed 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rfusca Posted March 22, 2018 Share Posted March 22, 2018 27 minutes ago, Cyradis said: I also wouldn't bother with giving Bones the green bath unless it is a larger figure like a dragon or somesuch. Bones human-size figures are cheap. May as well let goofed up figures stay as-is, and pick up new ones. You'll see your progress as you go, and save the effort. I put a date on the bottom of my figures so that it is easy to tell how I've changed A date is a great idea! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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