Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.
By Madog Barfog
Since vhaidra mentioned using 1000 grit sandpaper for prep in another thread, I thought I'd throw out one of my tips.
After I'm done removing flash from my mini I go over it with a nylon brush in a rotary tool. This gives me an extra smooth finish, and smooth painting is something we all pursue. Then I wash and prime as usual.
Q: But doesn't that remove detail?
A: Not that I can tell.
Q: On metal minis only, or also resin/plastic/Bonesium?
A: I've only used it on metal minis, since my experience with other materials is extremely limited. I would definitely test it on a non-metal scrap piece first, as metal is much harder than other materials.
By Madog Barfog
A long time ago (years, actually), those of us who didn't want to spend large sums on Ott lights used "natural" bulbs made by General Electric. These were bluish, incandescent, 60 watt bulbs that gave a more sunlike color spectrum than regular house bulbs.
Technology has moved on and I'm looking for modern replacements. The incandescents get pretty warm, hot enough to deform the plastic on another lamp I use, and my new painting room gets pretty hot when my fiancé and I have 2 illuminated magnifying lamps going, plus a laptop, three dogs that hangout, an upstairs room, etc. I'd like to buy a pair of LED bulbs (or CF, if that's the only option) with the same light characteristics.
However, searches of my local hardware store, Meijer, plus Amazon and even a general Google search have turned up nothing. I used to buy these at the local Home Depot, and I'm a bit concerned that LEDs can't do what tungsten filaments did in regards to spectrum. I am looking for a "standard" size of bulb and base, just like the old incandescent house lights I bought for decades before CF became a thing and then were replaced by LEDs running on house current.
What is considered the replacement for these old bulbs? What do people use today, and where can I buy some?
Hi all! I'm wondering if anyone has any tips for fixing the fishhook tip that develops on brushes after awhile. Is it even possible? I tried brush shaper with no success (although it's possible/likely there's a technique I don't know about that would make the brush shaper work better) I'd love to replace my brushes less frequently, and salvage some I already have :-)
I'm going to be starting a blog series call Tools of the Trade. It's mostly going to go in depth into the tools used but will probably include a few tutorials. If you were reading something like this what kind of topics might you want to see? I'm taking all suggestions currently. This will mainly be aimed at novice painters but could be of good use to others as well, I think
I've got a couple of pewter minis I want to rebase, and the clippers I've been using in the past are probably not going to do the trick. One has a a long sweeping dress that covers almost the full base she's on, and the other has great big gallumphing feet that kind of sink into the terrain. So I've been thinking of trying a jewellery saw. Any recommendations? I'm not sure what to look for in one of those, but I hear the blades vary in quality quite a bit.
Who's Online 5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 39 Guests (See full list)