Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Gargs

Vordakai Cyclops Lich 60082

Recommended Posts

My next project, also for my current Pathfinder game. This one looks like a real fun model and am looking to improve my layering technique as there are some nice areas on him to practice that.

 

As always, any suggestions along the way are most welcome.  Here is in his primed glory. Hoping to get a decent amount of work on the skin done today, looking forward to doing some fun stuff with the eye as well, but waiting on some supplies (read paint) to come in first.

 

Oh and I totally forgot about doing a WIP of the base, but there ya go. At least there will be some stuff likely added at the end. :)

 

Vordakai.thumb.jpg.7993ea7d6fafdfcb0769d08580d18682.jpg

 

Thanks for looking!

  • Like 8

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, Glitterwolf said:

I have one as well.

 

Anxious to see how you paint this guy!

 

Heh, I'm anxious to see how it goes too! Planning on trying a couple new ideas out on him, in particular hoping to get better results on the skin as I'm terrible with skin tones -- mainly because I haven't had many opportunities to try (did a lot of figs where pretty much just the face was visible).

 

1 minute ago, WhiteWulfe said:

Love the base, and those hands just scream "I will siphon your soul!" 

 

Thanks! Now hopefully the rest will live up to the hype of the base lol!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 minutes ago, Gargs said:

 

Heh, I'm anxious to see how it goes too! Planning on trying a couple new ideas out on him, in particular hoping to get better results on the skin as I'm terrible with skin tones -- mainly because I haven't had many opportunities to try (did a lot of figs where pretty much just the face was visible).

 

 

Thanks! Now hopefully the rest will live up to the hype of the base lol!

 

There are some good tutorials videos on youtube if you need them.

 

Basically, paint the darkest tone, then highlight on the cheekbones, forehead, nose etc.

 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah I've checked a lot of them out, I think my biggest problems are a) I'm still learning how to blend well and b) I probably don't go far enough on the contrasts, so it tends to come out flat, but then I'm always afraid of going too far and having it look silly. :p But, that's what thin paints and repaints are for right?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

P3 Thrall Flesh (or I suppose in this case it should be Lord Flesh ;p )

 

5ac7d2250e8bb_skinbase.thumb.jpg.e9ac8afa2e1ad00b4a0f7a87ac522304.jpg

 

It has a bit more green to its tone in person than shows up here, but you get the idea. Also got a little messy with the brush here, but wanted to make sure I was getting everything covered that needed it. Still found a couple areas that the brush missed when I went to photograph.

  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Washed with a mix of P3 Thrall Flesh and P3 Cryx Bane Base. Then drybrushed Thrall Flesh to cut down the wash some.

 

Looks a little rough, but still looking decent in person. Always hard to tell with a wash and drybrush approach until I'm done with the highlighting, but the next part is where things could go horribly wrong, so, fingers crossed!

 

IMG_20180406_154737.thumb.jpg.bfe88f809f34992dbdc519e0d8df76a0.jpg

  • Like 8

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, I don't think it went horribly wrong, but not sure it went horribly right either. :lol:

 

So, here's what I was going for. I glazed in some Imperial Purple in select places in an attempt to give an impression of bruised flesh/skin. Then proceeded to highlight with a mix of Thrall Flesh and P3 Menoth White Highlight, with increasing amounts of Menoth White Highlight. Then tried to bring it all back together by glazing over the entirety of the skin with Thrall Flesh.

 

Not sure yet on how it turned out. lol Looking for honest thoughts on this. Scrap the purple altogether? Leave it in? More highlights? More glazing of the thrall flesh over everything? As I said, this is something new for me, so looking for some honest suggestions and thoughts as I try to expand my toolset. Anyway, on to the photos!

 

Front.thumb.jpg.bed98984f8fe46a7e87036300a624533.jpg

 

Left.thumb.jpg.7cb6941fd6ec79b72b66399bf207000e.jpg

 

Right.thumb.jpg.d826cc5d63f416cc82e286a82d73fdee.jpg

 

Back.thumb.jpg.590de353e5dc2f4793dbdf12f1ff5693.jpg

 

 

  • Like 8

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Leave it in and glaze over it with your midtone.

You might want to do that several times, leave every glaze to dry before repeating.

 

If you take a look at my Countess Karnstein Bust WIP you will see I did something like that as well.

It will take a lot of effort because you need more layers of glazes, but in the end it will look great.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Glitterwolf said:

Leave it in and glaze over it with your midtone.

You might want to do that several times, leave every glaze to dry before repeating.

 

If you take a look at my Countess Karnstein Bust WIP you will see I did something like that as well.

It will take a lot of effort because you need more layers of glazes, but in the end it will look great.

 

Thanks! I'm definitely going to give that a try! This, in all likelihood, is another of those learning steps in general and skin tones in particular. Just remembering to be patient and take my time. Not sure I'll get anything done today as its game day, but hopefully tomorrow I can squeeze some time in around cleaning and packing the house.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Moar Progress!

 

So, I actually like where the bruising is now for the most part (thanks @Glitterwolf, the glazing helped a ton!) Also a big thanks to @Guindyloo for her tutorial on glazing, i.e. how thin it needs to be. Now I'm not sure on the shading of the skin, lol. Will think on it a bit and consider more glazes there, or fixing up some of the shades with just a mid-tone or highlight. Only potential issue with the bruising areas are that it might be too light now, but better that than the way it was before.

 

Also, while letting the assorted glaze layers dry, I also got in the shade coat for the cloak (P3 Thamar Black). Thoughts on the skin? Any added glazes needed, more mid tone/highlight? As always all thoughts, ideas, suggestions, critiques are most welcome!

 

1.thumb.jpg.dbaa634afe9cb8a3563814f204279810.jpg

 

2.thumb.jpg.771ccf5d1c77b9b445466a8b4788b989.jpg

 

3.thumb.jpg.bc35f7a42373aa8815535982e1f1a83c.jpg

 

4.thumb.jpg.686a71b2bf2b718542226ad17af95282.jpg

 

5.thumb.jpg.8deff07ad2f2ef735fe17ec384ee2a44.jpg

 

 

 

 

  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

While I think on the flesh, continued working on the cloak. P3 Thamar Black layered into Nightshade Purple into about a 50/50 mix of Nightshade Purple and Imperial Purple. Now just trying to figure out how high I want to bring the highlights, but right now liking the look of it, wanting the cloak to be pretty dark so might leave it as is, but will see when I work on the rest of the clothing. Looking at the pics, the bottom right of the back of the cloak does seem a little dark, might lighten it up some, thoughts?

 

As always thanks for looking and for any suggestions.

 

Back.thumb.jpg.ec51645e908269f6dd36274ec4060682.jpg

 

Front.thumb.jpg.282111ce796411b881f06bdc30c75c7b.jpg

  • Like 10

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I pushed the highlights on the cloak all the way up to pure Imperial Purple. A bit difficult to see in the photos below but it does really pop a bit more in person. (I swear, I really do intend to set up a better photo table someday and then actually learn how to take decent photographs). As I was doing that I was also thinking about what color to make the rest of his clothes (yeah I know, thinking about this ahead of time is actually smart and all, but I just love this particular purple triad so I knew I had to use at least the two darker parts of it -- perhaps the Lady of the Singular Footwear is rubbing off on me). 

 

Anyway, since this is going to ultimately be used in my Pathfinder game I didn't want to use green if I could help it because of reasons.* The next logical contrast color for purple, at least according to my color wheel, is yellow and, umm, well not a huge fan of yellow, but I also had two distinct sets of cloth still to go (the robe and the assorted ribbons? tassles? I guess?). So then it struck me, "Aha! I can make the robe the same color as the cloak and then maybe just use a little bit of yellow for those other bits, that wouldn't be so bad!" So I started to put in the shade of Thamar Black. As I was doing this though, the problem with that plan presented itself: In the back, the robe peaks out underneath the cloak, and making them the same color would potentially obscure that detail quite a bit. Ultimately though, I decided to make it basically the same but instead of starting at Thamar Black, I started at Nightshade Purple and instead went all the way up to Amethyst Purple.

 

Back:

 

Back.thumb.jpg.aa9db4b81af35d18e740c1f125ea53f8.jpg

 

Front:

 

Front.thumb.jpg.6f02a5ba973857a33aa9f795507db230.jpg

 

From a distance, it doesn't look too bad, but up close, particularly in the front: Yikes

 

Front2.thumb.jpg.14dbd035f8ac32f19f8d5fbe8b64752f.jpg

 

Now, part of it is that I still need to go back and glaze over everything with my midtone and that should hopefully help some. Part of it too though is that I think I was just getting a bit tired while painting and wasn't thinking everything through real well and some of those transitions still look pretty abrupt, even though I was going in really small increments with my paints/layers. I also belatedly found the really good tutorial on layering by @Kuro Cleanbrush that has some nice tips for avoiding some of the abrupt transitions. I think I will start by trying to glaze over the transitions and see if that helps things out, but I may just go back and start fresh, making my paint even thinner (the paint might have been getting a bit thick since it dries up really quick on me).

 

Any tips or suggestions though would be greatly appreciated as would constructive criticism. 

 

* And for those who actually care about the RPG "reasons" for avoiding green:

 

Spoiler

So far in the campaign, I have been associating the main BBEG with the color green, more specifically a brightish glowing green (think P3 Necrotite Green). Her minions have all had this represented in them to one degree or another. Vordakai here is definitely a bad guy, but he is not HER bad guy and is actually someone who has fought against her in the past, so for those reasons I wanted to avoid green on him as much as possible, though a bit of green in his flesh made sense as he is undead.

 

  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The cloak is so lovely, especially in the shoulder area! I think you've done really well with the principles of painting black, which is not an easy task!

Although it was smart of you to sort of recycle the same colours from the cloak into the robe because it gives a more cohesive look, the robe part is not working for you. There's not enough of a delineation between where the cloak and robe meet so it looks like it's meant to be the same fabric, just over-highlighted on the robe parts. To fix that, you need to fully commit to the purple. Of course this doesn't mean you have to have a lavender robe by any means, you just need to not be quite so aggressive with your shadows. I would paint over all of the Nightmare Purple on the robe entirely with whatever your next lightest (but still dark) purple is. It looks like there's hints of something in here:

Capture.PNG.1506bd689f14a45bf04e4aea0d8afa24.PNG

Whatever the purple in the circled bits is, I would use that as your darkest shadow and try to ease the transitions a bit more as you work your way up. It's not that you're using too much contrast, it's that you're jumping too quickly from point A to point Z and going in too broadly with both your shadows and your highest highlights.

 

That brings me to the skin. I don't think that the bruise appearance of the shadows is a bad idea, but your midtone skin colour is way too light to work with such dark shadows and because it's such a creamy colour that doesn't mesh at all with those other colours, I don't think that glazing is going to ease the transition enough. To make that creamy yellow colour work as a midtone, your shadow colour would have to only be a couple of steps darker and your highlight would need to go all the way up to a bright white.

 

And this is kind of why I don't love washes for a lot of applications - they deposit colour into recesses even if those recesses are aimed directly at where your light source would be shining right down on, so you end up with an aggressively dark shadow where only a light tint of a shadow would be. There's nothing wrong with using a wash by any means, I use them myself on certain applications (although, admittedly, I tend to use products that are made as washes more as ready-made glazes than for their intended application,) but you really want to think about how the wash is going to lay down that dark colour and try to use them as thoughtfully as you can.

Lighting in general is a tricky thing. We tend to regard our eyeballs as the light source and highlight whatever part is poking out the most. The problem with that, of course, is that our eyes move as the figure does. So you want to pick where the light is coming from and be consistent with it. That's way easier said than done! That's why really strong OSL, when it's executed properly, is so amazing, because it's a complicated understanding of where the light source is and how it's affecting the figure.

The easiest light source is to imagine the sun. The sun is usually going to be off to the side just a little bit, but it's easiest to go with a light source from straight above, then gradually work toward a truer "zenithal" light source that's off to the side just a bit.

One trick for discovering how to highlight a figure with a light source from directly above is to hold it directly under a bright light. You can use your lamp, the light on your phone, a flashlight, etc. Anything that's going to put very harsh light directly on the figure so that you can see the exaggerated contrast that the harsh lighting leaves. You should see really distinct, dark shadows where the light isn't hitting those parts of the figures at all. Those are the only areas where your darkest shadow colour should go.

Another trick that I use constantly is to hold the figure directly in front of my chest so that I'm looking down at the top of the figure's head. The bits that I see poking out beyond the top of their head are the only spots that should get my brightest highlight. 

 

So, all of that said, I don't think you need to start over by any means. I think that the easiest path to go down would be with a glaze, but it needs to be the right colour. I would shoot for a dark mustard-y yellow with a green-ish tint. I would highly recommend that you do some experiments on a figure that you don't care about or can easily dunk into Simple Green when you're done. Bones figures are perfect for such experiments. It doesn't even need to be a similar figure, you just need some kind of somewhat similar texture. (So, you wouldn't want to experiment over a fur texture, you'd want something flatter.) If you don't have a figure that you can experiment on, alternatives would be watercolour paper (or a paper that's thick enough that it won't break down when you glaze over it,) a spare chunk of sprue, the underside of a figure or your hand. Recreate what you have here and then experiment with glazes to see what darkens it up to a tone somewhere between the bruising effect and the creamy yellow.

 

I did a quick and dirty mock-up in Microsoft Paint to try to illustrate what I mean.

lichedit2.thumb.jpg.c379c0f1e8028e882f9f788394095367.jpg

For the skin, I left the bruising in tact but went over the creamy yellow with the sort of "dark mustard-y yellow with a green-ish tint" I mean. Then I highlighted up to the creamy yellow that you had on there originally. Then hopefully you can see how much better the purple robe works by going for a more solid midtone purple overall and easing back both the shadows and the highlights. I know it's a crude example, but hopefully that helps in some way!

 

Keep working on it, you've got some nice work going and some really cool ideas! ^_^

  • Like 4
  • Thanks 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Dae
      I planned to go for the coloring suggestion on the box, except with brighter feathers. After base coat and a wash it seemed to turn rather plain. I keep the underside this way, while for the top side of the wings I started adding some variation to the feathers, gradually daring to add more detail and contrast. Took a while to get there, but in the end I was happy and called it finished. I even took a fun picture with it:
       

       
       
       
      But now that I'm a few minis wiser, I demoted him from finished to lacking base. And this is where I am stuck now. 
       
      I had this plan of making a sandstone cliff looking base. I positioned him and started building up terrain, working carefully not to damage the finished mini. I colored some stones of various sizes in a few colors so I don't need to paint as much around the mini and I started to glue my rocks carefully around the base. 
       

       
      I kept working on it for hours thinking I am getting somewhere, but once I took a break and looked at it again from all sides... I stand by my rocks, I think in a few steps they'll look great, but the scene makes no sense. These are not cliffs, more like a stone quarry, what would a griffon be doing there? - that's too specific and unlikely.
       
      Time to "delete" this somehow and start over... Wish me luck!
       
      https://pocketsizedadventurers.wordpress.com/2019/12/18/griffon-wings/
       
    • By Shadespyre
      EDIT - This is now going to be somewhere I dump all my Reaper projects while (hopefully) not causing chaos by misusing the Show Off section. I'll pop finished miniatures that are individually worth looking at over there, too.
       
      My first post on the Reaper Forum, so please be nice! 
       
      Not 100% sure where to post this as it falls into several categories. but here it is anyway - my Reaper Bones Hill Giant "Tribe" and their hillside display base. I posted these in my regular Warhammer forum but they are too far removed from WFB to gain much interest, so I thought I'd share them here in their "proper" home.
       
      I've always painted miniatures with the "excuse" that they will be used to play games with, whether that be D&D or Warhammer or anything in between, so my emphasis is on table-ready minis rather than masterpieces. This is one of the first projects I've done without a clear gaming purpose, but because I'm a gamer at heart I still needed to put everything on individual bases for two reasons -
      1 - "just in case" a gaming use comes up
      2 - because gaming bases excuses a gaming paint job!
       
      I decided on hex bases because I liked the way they tessellate
       
      The paint scheme, choice of pets and landscape are inspired by my AD&D days, I'm constantly trying to recapture my youth! (Glad to say that Reaper Bones have finally made this sort of project practical and affordable, and I hope to follow it with similar projects using the other trad D&D Giant races.)
       

       
      All 11 miniatures used (and the 11th is very hard to spot in these two pictures!) are from Reaper, mostly Bones. There are a few relatively simple conversions, mostly so I could use two pairs of giants without them being identical.
      The major scenic elements (trees and rocks) are made from errr real trees and real rocks, while almost all of the greenery is from a range of suppliers (Citadel, Army Painter and so on)
      I tried to position all of the models so that they are focused on something located just in front of the scene - presumably, a party of hostile adventurers!
       
      I don't want to drown people in images, but if there is interest I can post individual pictures of each giant and some WIP pictures of the project, as well as the identity of that 11th miniature...
       
       
    • By Shadespyre
      The biggest model I've ever painted, I worked on it in sections and then assembled it onto the base when finished. I made very minor modifications to Kalarax herself, mostly inserting a lot of brass rods to support joints, and using hot water to bend the tail around onto the base (which is 25 cm square!) There was a lot more work on the base, using rocks, grit and sand to meld the Bones "ruined temple" into a larger scene with common elements from my Vampire army (see sig below)
       
      You may know the story of why the model is so big - apparently a communications error meant that it is twice the size it was ever meant to be? Because of this, I removed odd-sized base details like huge skulls and dinner plate coins and replaced them with "in-scale" objects like dozens and dozens of resin skulls as seen in the close up.
       
      My "huge bony miniature" recipe is:
      One can of Army Painter Undead Bone spray paint
      A big pot of GW Agrax Earthshade (or similar brown wash)
      A pot of Citadel Dry Tyrant Skull
      A large flat drybrush
       
      Let the model to the work! You can also use this to paint large numbers of smaller skeletons, of course.
    • By Shadespyre
      I found it really hard to light and photograph such a tall model, I'll have to get him off his shelf and try and take better pictures at some point in the future. I chose the bright red tongue to tie in with the reddish muscle and the red roses (which are a theme of my Warhammer Vampire project) as a spot colour. 
    • By Shadespyre
      Painted to match my Warhammer Vampire army, using old Citadel Foundation paints and a lot of Agrax Earthshade wash
  • Who's Online   25 Members, 1 Anonymous, 40 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...