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Auberon Paints His Bones...

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for a 5E game.  That's about all I can do for my WIP's theme after only one session.  Mostly it will be monsters.  Maybe I can convince the DM to tell me what's coming so I can paint it. :lol:  These are just for tabletop, but my philosophy is you should still try something new on every piece, or at least work on getting better at something you can already do.  Which is why I started a WIP I wasn't even originally going to bother with - for an experiment.


I was looking at the marsh troll and thinking "this would be a good candidate for glaze painting."  Now if you aren't familiar with glaze painting, it is where you prime white and then add washes/glazes of progressively darker colors.  It creates your midtone and shadows, then you go back in and add back the highlights.  You can do it for anything but it is ideal for textures.  Now Bones are white, but you can't just go over them with diluted paints.  Liner works well to prime, but then the mini is no longer white.  But wait, I have a large bottle of white craft paint that I used for some terrain.  What if I prime with liner, give it a heavy drybrush so the highlights are white again, and then glaze paint?


Step 1: Brown liner + a heavy drybrush of white craft paint.




Step 2: Green skin starts with yellow paint.  Here is a potential issue - the liner shifts the shadows to green.  As I want green skin this isn't an issue but it would be if I wanted my final color to be yellow.  I am also trying not to be messy as I would need to make any messes white again later.




Step 3: Sap green diluted to a wash.  Now the skin is greenish.




Step 4: A second wash of sap green in the shadows to add more depth.




Step 5: His highlights are still pretty yellow in hand so I made a wash of anthraquinone blue.  It will make the yellow more green and further darken the shadows.




Oh, I hit his front too.  It was really blue so I started the color shift with some phthalocyanine green ink.




Interlude: Lem.  Needed for a PC.  Must be finished by Friday.  The troll is optional.




Step 6:  All leather was hit with a couple of layers of burnt umber ink.




Step 7:  The wood was coated with a mix of burnt umber ink and titanium white.  Some of the liner still shows through so the initial color is a little wonky in places.  Maybe it'll add texture to the wood....




Step 7: Shade the wood.  Initially I used a burnt umber ink wash, but it wasn't intense enough and would end up  looking like the leather after a few more washes.  So I used the obvious wood shadow color, dioxazine purple ink watered down to a wash.




From the front.  His belly got a wash of the burnt umber ink while it was out.  A couple more and it would turn olive, but maybe I'll leave it bluish.  While multiple washes have smoothed it out you can still see texture from the drybrush showing through.  It's an interesting effect here but won't always be desirable.




Step 8: Call it a night and go to bed.  I have to work and make money after all.  We can't paint all the time.  :upside:  Next update - unknown.  I really do need to finish the halfling bard before I play around anymore.

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I have completed the bard.  While he doesn't have a finished shot I took a WIP that I never posted.  Of course, the player skipped out on us so the bard's only action was to be tossed into the forest by a monster and vanishing. :rolleyes:




And back to the troll.  I squeezed in some painting between loads of laundry.  More brown for the pelt, though this time it was burnt umber washed with carbon black to make it darker than the other browns.




With that its time for some highlights.  Highlights with this technique are usually an off-white made from titanium white and a touch of your base color, which is then glazed over with your midtone to smooth out the transition.  First some off-white




and then a glaze.  You can rinse and repeat depending on how smooth you want the transition or how many levels of highlights you want.  This guy is tabletop so we won't be bothering with that, though I may add in some spot highlights in the end.




Some very white side brushing and edge lining on his stegosaurus spine plates.  It is fairly harsh under the painting lights but less so under general room lighting.  Still, most people would likely throw a glaze over the top  of it.




I then did the same thing for the green and brown leather.  Once again, only one glaze as we want fast, not perfetc.




Time to eat.

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 The face on the bard is outstanding ... mischief,  in the corner of his smile and treachery is in his eyes ... you might be better off without him ...


 Last pick up D&D game I was in included a gnome Rouge who's only goal was to cause trouble and grief the party ... about half way through the second session I thumped his noggin, tied him up and the party played hacky sac with him till he was severely subdued,  I then informed him he would be released once he stopped trying to get the party killed ... he did not come back ... hope you have better luck with your group.

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On 4/22/2018 at 5:41 PM, Boaz said:

 The face on the bard is outstanding ... mischief,  in the corner of his smile and treachery is in his eyes ... you might be better off without him ...


 Last pick up D&D game I was in included a gnome Rouge who's only goal was to cause trouble and grief the party ... about half way through the second session I thumped his noggin, tied him up and the party played hacky sac with him till he was severely subdued,  I then informed him he would be released once he stopped trying to get the party killed ... he did not come back ... hope you have better luck with your group.


While I'd like to take credit for that face, the smile is sculpted on.  I think most painters are able to achieve a reasonable amount of mischief with him.  :;):


The end is approaching, but first we need to paint the base.  It will be a marshy base for a marsh troll, and so we start with the most marshy of marshy colors..




Don't worry, it will all make sense in the end!  Next a blue ink wash and a green ink wash.  The blue is mostly in the water while the green mostly on the earth.




Then the earth gets a white drybrush followed by some burnt umber ink.




Soon I'll be adding water effects, so I want to dullcote first.  Ink is glossy so it can be hard to see what's what with the glare.  Here he is after a bit of dulling down.




And now his water effects need to cure for 24 hours so you'll have to wait to see how the base actually turned out.

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The game has hit a bit of hiatus with players being sent out of town for work, or surgery (not me) but I'm still slowly painting.  Next some potentially useful monsters, the spikeshell warriors.  Some of these artist paints get fairly translucent pretty quickly but I decided to make the attempt at painting over black.  These have the same paints, but I drybrushed over one of them with white paint first.  The black base just took too many layers to be efficient for quick tabletop painting.




My wood paint covered much better though, so the wood looks good over black or white.  I drybrushed the base before painting their toe claws.  I usually don't mix painted dirt and painted grass but decided to give it a go.




Were I to get ambitious I could finish these off in short order.

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The light to dark spikeshell warrior is pretty well done, but my dark to light never doing this again with Golden fluid acrylics on a tabletop mini warrior needs some lighter green and its shield painted.  First the sap green was highlighted with indian yellow; I didn't really pay attention to the sculpted texture and just applied the paint.  It took about three coats to get this coverage.




For more highlighting primary yellow was added next. 




And then it was given a wash of sap green to try and even the colors out.  The shield has been given a base of red paint.  Given that red generally takes a lot of coats to cover well I think I'll forgo dark to light here. I'll just paint my highlights. and then wash the color back down.




The end is near.

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Time for another experiment.  While I have been using brown liner for awhile because it works pretty well on Bones, it does have the downside of being brown.  Drybrushing white onto the troll worked pretty well, but also added in an extra step.  Then I though, these Golden paints seem fairly resilient, perhaps they stick to Bones well enough on their own.  So I "primed" the mini with titanium white to see how it would work.  Next I made a wash of raw sienna and went over what I will designate earthy sections on my base.  After two passes the paint started to show off the sculpted texture and held up to a light fingernail test.




Next I washed the outer portion with burnt sienna and the inner portion with raw umber.  It makes the newly upturned earth darker, but that part is also going to be mostly covered anyway.  Then it all got a wash of raw umber ink.




And then the rocks were drybrushed with cheap craft paint.  It works for terrain.



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I see the image upload function was repaired while I was out of town.  I didn't take any paints with me as I knew I wouldn't get around to any hobby work, so these were all taken before I headed out.  First, priming with Titanium White.  It's a boring pic but I took it initially just to test how the upload was working.




Exciting.  Next, some Cerulean Blue ink.  I had missed a few spots, and the ink in no way sticks to Bones material.  It needed two passes to get complete coverage.




This was shaded with a wash of magenta paint.  Before painting everything and then deciding I didn't like it I tackled one column of scales first.




Next a wash of crimson paint.  It's darker than the magenta, but not quite dark enough.  Of course, the glossy reflections don't help with seeing the shadows either.




Next I reestablished the blue. I had been doing some rough two-brush blending to keep from forming too harsh of a transition between the colors, but it still needed some smoothing out.




And lastly I mixed some titanium white into my blue ink to create a highlight color.  It would look better with a more controlled application using a better brush, but this is all about speed.




And now to repeat over the rest of the mini.

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Yeah, I don't post much in here anymore (wait, who is that guy) but I used one of these tabletop Bones as a test piece and though someone might be interested in the results.  The short story is some time ago I picked up the Scale 75 Steam & Punk set to try out.  I liked the original line and as I had a steampunk mini in the queue, that seemed a reasonable set to pick up.  I tried the leather and ended up not liking it as well as the original paints, so I sat it aside to gather dust.  Fast forward to today and I decided to give the set another try.


First, back to the leather.  Rather than following their tutorial I decided to mix something by eye. On the plus side I like it better than their version, but I did run into a couple of issues.  1 - the color of Blackert Brown is too close to Reaper's Tanned Shadow.  What you see here is a best case scenario with bright lights.  Under regular room lighting they are even closer in hue and don't really differentiate.  So, if I use this skin in the future I'll use/mix a different leather to go on top.  The other issue is that the shadow color for the set, Arbuckles Brown isn't quite opaque enough to use to make scratches.  Not a big deal as you can use other paints, or go over the same line several times like I did.  I think it also helped that I went dark to light over Brown Liner.  Shading down over a mid-tone with Arbuckles might look too purple.




But the real reason I got the set out was I wanted to paint some copper NMM and this set claims that as one of its colors.  In this case I like the way the colors work better than the leather.  The highlight color, Hykey Yellow, feels an awful lot like the yellow that's in the original set, but I haven't tried them side by side yet. The Birch may be slightly more desatured.  At any rate, highlighting copper to yellow is a valid option as it does look that way under certain lighting conditions.  My memory though is that direct sunlight is not one of them, and that the highlight should go more white.  I'll try some of that later.  The center piece of the axe is their gold from this set, but going dark to light I didn't get enough mid-tone in there.  I'll have to tweek it a bit when I paint more gold.




And there's my overview from the set, painting the three things it says you can paint.  As you can see from the pics, these paints tend toward satin rather than matte.  If you prefer the latter finish then the original set is likely a better choice.

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I played around a bit more with the copper to get a better feel for it and mixed a bit of white into my highlight instead of using the straight yellow. Towards the end I reached the point of "I'm spending too much time on a test piece" and got a bit sloppy.  Note to self, choose smaller test pieces.  One other thing of note, I went to do some edge highlighting and discovered that Bones Black does not always give a nice crisp edge.  OK, frequently in this case. With metal I could just file it down, but I'm not sure what my best option will end up being for this material. 



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She looks stunning, those swords are great!

As for the edges, I think with this stuff you should use a very sharp exacto blade.

I only have the Owlbear at the moment and that one had no problems, but it seems to me it is a material inbetween hardplastic and resin.

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