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Lidless Eye Hobbies: First Painted 3D Prints


Lidless Eye
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Since it's arrival last month, I've been experimenting with my first 3D Printer.  Today marked the first finished painted projects that were made on it.

Several Giants, designed by Duncan "Shadow" Louca.

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The Gourdlock, by dutchmogul:

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One of my favorite finds while randomly searching for STL files, the Dwarf Rock Star, also by dutchmogul.

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Completing my Frostgrave Bestiaries is an eventual goal...here's a simple crab from Rocket Pig

 

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Tortles seem to be the new hotness since their introduction in a charity event tied to "Tomb of Annihilation".  These guys are a mix from Fat Dragon and the wonderful DM Workshop

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The last are a murder of Redcaps, again designed by DM Workshop.  I swapped out their weapons to give them some variety.

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2 hours ago, Gadgetman! said:

You may want to cover them in a gap-filling primer, or Smooth-on XTC-3D resin to get rid of the lines.

 

Which printer and settings were you printing With? 

 

The Gourdlock is epic.

(I need to download and print that one myself.)


I was thinking about that...the lines are a lot more obvious in the photos than they were during the painting process.  Is there a gap-filling primer you'd suggest?

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I honestly haven't tried any for this purpose, yet.

(The XTC-3D stuff gets pretty good reviews, though. I've had a pack around for a year or more, but haven't tried it yet... )

My Guess is that most thick-flowing resins should do the trick, really. Or maybe gesso?

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What's old is new again. I remember tortles from the old Red Steel campaign. Those look pretty good though, my wife bought a printer a few months ago, though I'm not sure if it's capable of that detail. Might be worth a try anyway.

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I'm guessing that they're printed with a 0.1mm layer thickness?   

If so, it should be possible to print them on just about any reasonably recent 3D printer. 

 

But it needs to be very well-adjusted to avoid stringing or gooping up the print.  

Layer thickness is the most critical factor on filament printers like the one used to print these minis.

 

The reason why print width doesn't matter as  much can be seen quite easily on the giants. even if it was printed with 0.4mm diameter nozzle(the most common size), that doesn't mean it has to place the lines exactly above each other. 

by moving it 0.1mm or even less one way you get a smoother gradient. 

Line width only really matters at the top layers of relatively flat pieces such as rocky floor tiles. 

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1 hour ago, Gadgetman! said:

I'm guessing that they're printed with a 0.1mm layer thickness?   

If so, it should be possible to print them on just about any reasonably recent 3D printer. 

 

But it needs to be very well-adjusted to avoid stringing or gooping up the print.  

Layer thickness is the most critical factor on filament printers like the one used to print these minis.

 

The reason why print width doesn't matter as  much can be seen quite easily on the giants. even if it was printed with 0.4mm diameter nozzle(the most common size), that doesn't mean it has to place the lines exactly above each other. 

by moving it 0.1mm or even less one way you get a smoother gradient. 

Line width only really matters at the top layers of relatively flat pieces such as rocky floor tiles. 


Yes, that was the nozzle size and layer thickness.

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They look pretty good.

 

Don't try Gesso  for gap filling; it actually snuggles down to the surface it's applied to very nicely. I use it to prime with during the winter, and no matter how heavy handedly I apply it, it doesn't obscure any details.

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On 5/11/2018 at 4:46 AM, Lidless Eye said:


I was thinking about that...the lines are a lot more obvious in the photos than they were during the painting process.  Is there a gap-filling primer you'd suggest?

 

On 5/11/2018 at 5:13 AM, Gadgetman! said:

I honestly haven't tried any for this purpose, yet.

(The XTC-3D stuff gets pretty good reviews, though. I've had a pack around for a year or more, but haven't tried it yet... )

My Guess is that most thick-flowing resins should do the trick, really. Or maybe gesso?

 

On 5/12/2018 at 9:15 AM, Chaoswolf said:

They look pretty good.

 

Don't try Gesso  for gap filling; it actually snuggles down to the surface it's applied to very nicely. I use it to prime with during the winter, and no matter how heavy handedly I apply it, it doesn't obscure any details.

 

I actually do use gesso on my 3D prints, and get good results. However, the models are my own big stompy robots, and I specifically designed them to have nice flat surfaces that are then easily sanded down going normal across the layer direction to hide the layer lines. Haven't ever tried things other than a simple curve. Now, if it is an actual gap we're talking about, then it's probably not good.

 

Here's links to the two WIPs I did where the prints were slathered in gesso. The first is my Pereth mobile howitzer (which has the Photobucket cancer, and I can't upload the pictures because of forum issues; have a link to the ReaperCon picture instead) and the second is my Speintz ELINT/AWACS/Recon unit (with actual visible pictures, too).

 

Oddly enough, that Speintz thread has just stated that Chaoswolf has replied. But he hasn't. More weirdness.

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