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Kristof65's new painting/gaming area

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Well, it turns out I am not finished mounting it yet, because it takes 3 hours to print each standoff, and I have 5 more to print. And then I have to print the caps for the standoffs to hold the wire in place. 



First panel mounted in place. 


First layer complete. 


First panel of the second layer put in place.  I can't really start putting paint in yet because I have to print the caps that will hold the second layer in place. 

I should have researched my wire panels better.  I was hoping that each panel would hold 77 bottles of paint (9x9 grid = 81 holes minus the four corner holes being unusable)  Turns out that the paints won't fit in the outer edges, so I effectively only have a 7x7 grid in each panel, or 49 bottles of paint.  That still winds up being 192 bottle worth, and I still have enough wall space to add another 96 in the future.   The smaller ones won't go entirely to waste, though - I'm sure I'll find other bottles of stuff to fit in there. Plus my son suggested I could design & print miniature drawers to hold bits and pieces if I really get ambitious. 

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On 6/15/2018 at 7:21 PM, strawhat said:

Is there enough room between the individual grates for you to hang blister packs?  That might be an option to help you utilize the space.


There is - but just barely. Need to figure out a way to throw a peg hook on there because that's a great idea. I figure I could get ten hooks, and hopefully get 3-4 blisters per hook.


The paint rack is finished, and my craft paints put up.



Next project is my game table.


I've got two 60" base cabinets that I've bolted back to back. On top of that I'm putting a 4x6 ft table top.




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Here's the next stage of my gaming/craft area - a custom table for miniatures gaming.


I bought two unfinished 60" sink base cabinets, and finished them to match my painting desk. I also took off the front false drawer panels, and am working on converting them to real drawers.



I put some 4x4s with furniture slides underneath the cabinets to act as feet, and then bolted them back to back.




I had left the end finishing panels off because I was originally going to get fancy and do some designs using wood burning and colored stains, but I gave up trying to decide what those designs would be. So the end panels are currently in the garage getting stained and Polycrylic so I can attach them before I put the top on.


On top of the cabinets will be a piece of 3/4" MDF cut to 4x6, and trimmed with 1/2 x 2" Oak finished to match the cabinets.



The board isn't exactly 4x6 ft. The MDF I bought was really 49" wide, so I cut the top to 48.25 x 72.25", giving me a quarter inch of play, plus better matching the width of the two base cabinets bolted together.


I'll be using some GeoHex like terrain I'm making myself for land forms, so I decided to paint the table top as water. When the terrain is on top of it, depending upon density and placement, it will make it look like streams/rivers and/or islands


I just used some house paint I had left over from painting my office. When I was choosing paints for my office, I had picked up three different blues in sample sizes. The base coat of the table is the color I ultimately used on my office walls, and the other colors are the left over samples.  My daughter (age 7) helped me sponge on the colors. I'm probably going to have to build her a play table so she can paint a table herself.


The biggest thing that stunk about painting the MDF was having to prime it with an oil based primer so I could use the latex paint on it.


I put the compass rose on there for some of the ship games I play, such as Pirates of the Spanish Main, Pirates!, and Galleys & Galleons. Figure it will make the games look more visually interesting, and provide a helpful place for a wind direction marker.  I toyed with the idea of putting some magnets underneath it, but that would require yet another delay.


My delay in assembling everything right now is putting the Polycrylic on the table top.  I toyed with the idea of using some of that pour on countertop resin, but I'm already over budget on this project, and my wife would likely hurt me if I asked for $150 more it when I already have a gallon of Polycrylic.


So one coat down, and another 5-6 to go.  I was hoping to be done with taht before we left on vacation, but I don't think I'm going to make it now.

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Why did you decide to go with MDF for the top rather than plywood? My experience wth MDF, even painted, is poor. It disintegrates so quickly if it gets wet. The whole project is fantastic though, I think its a marvelous use of ready to go components.

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On 6/17/2018 at 11:12 AM, kristof65 said:


There is - but just barely. Need to figure out a way to throw a peg hook on there because that's a great idea. I figure I could get ten hooks, and hopefully get 3-4 blisters per hook.


I'd start by looking for "hooks for gridwall". I think you might have a tough time getting standard hooks to fit over the two side-by-side vertical rods at the join between two grid pieces, though.

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6 hours ago, Heisler said:

Why did you decide to go with MDF for the top rather than plywood? My experience wth MDF, even painted, is poor. It disintegrates so quickly if it gets wet. The whole project is fantastic though, I think its a marvelous use of ready to go components.


A few reasons for using MDF. One was cost of a smoothly finished panel.  Another was the fact that the plywood was a maximum width of 48", and I knew that my back to back cabinets were slightly wider than that. And while I've had similar experiences with MDF, we played on unsealed MDF table tops for years in at my best friends house in the 90s with little issue. 

I've also got some decent experience in sealing it MDF from another project, plus MDF is used for laminated countertops all the time.  I've already used 2 coats of oil based primer to seal it - including the edges under the oak trim, two coats of latex house paint on top of that, and that's being topped off with multiple coats of polycrylic. 

Finally, this table top will have a strict "no drinks anywhere near it" policy.  There are plenty of areas nearby for people to put drinks out of the way.  But honestly, that's more for protection of my terrain and miniatures than for the table top. 



1 hour ago, Doug Sundseth said:


I'd start by looking for "hooks for gridwall". I think you might have a tough time getting standard hooks to fit over the two side-by-side vertical rods at the join between two grid pieces, though.

You know that saying about when you have a hammer, everything starts to look like a nail? Well, yeah, for me, my 3d Printer has been the same thing - "I can print a solution!"

I wasn't even going to try and find something premade that would work.  I'll likely just grab some standard pegboard hooks, then design an adapter to snap them on with, and print that on my 3d printer.  Completely custom - since acquiring the 3d printer, I've done similar things for other projects. 

But I think I will have a look at some of those gridwall hooks to give me a better idea of what I want to do. 

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