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Has anyone tried stripping paint from a photo resin miniature? I have one that I... well I messed up on it and It's not really salvageable now unless I can get the paint off. I've heard Simple Green is safe-ish for regular resin (I have read stories of softening and becoming more brittle after re-hardening), but I am not sure if photo resin would be any different. Are there any other cleaners that I might try or should I just dunk it in Simple Green and hope for the best?
Hey look, yet another Jasper topic.....
But this one is different (I hope). I actually have a time frame in mind, to get this finished before the end of 2020, and submitted for the annual diorama contest.
I love dioramas, and I've been pretty happy with the few I've made. BUT I always put off getting started and then end up rushing over Christmas to get everything done.
So this year I'm starting in January (if just barely) so that I will hopefully get some stuff done before December.
I've had the idea for this diorama since the very first moment I saw my first "sneak preview" of Khanjira (that would have been approximately Fri, Oct 25, 2013, 7:57 PM ADT, according to when I got the email from Kickstarter).
My first though was something like "What a beast! Imagine if he was fighting something from a smaller scale, like CAV...."
So that has been bouncing around in my head ever since.
Then I was messaging with @Pochi a few weeks ago about the contests and got talking about dioramas, and I mentioned this idea, and she said I HAD to do it.....so here we are.
Basic concept is the classic Kaiju attacking a future city harbour. CAVs (any or all of tanks, vehicles, mechs, infantry, maybe even aircraft) defending. (I briefly considered going even smaller scale as I have quite a bit of 6mm stuff too, but CAVs are easier to work with, I have about a billion of them, and they are awesome).
Today was a beginning. I grabbed some stuff and laid it out just to get an idea of a size I'm going to want.
Obviously I just grabbed what was handy to get some scale. Khanjira is represented by my 7 days Khanjira (handy, that ). I plan to try to get him a little more upright, since he won't be on his base and at least his front foot will be "under water". With his pose (which I don't think I have the skill or know how to adjust too much) I'm thinking maybe an elevated highway that he has just crushed to be what his right leg is on. That or a boat of some sort....we'll see.
The box is just a reference for the land, glasses are just some buildings. I'm picturing something similar to the Halifax waterfront with boardwalks or something and docks/jetties (the grey upside down drawer represents) and then big buildings. Army will be in place along the waterfront, so some barricades and stuff. Possibly a trench of energy blasted ruin from the "breath weapon" if I think I can pull that off. Again, we'll see.
So just from the mock up, this is going to be fairly massive...like approaching 2 foot kind of dimensions
Not something I would do if I was following advice on building award winning dioramas, but then that's not what I'm focusing on. I just want to make the image in my mind a reality, and I'm using the contest deadline to hopefully focus me.
I'm also going to have to learn to do a bunch of new stuff for this, which should be fun!
Step one will be to dig out my other Khanjira and start cleaning up up. And decide on what I'm going to use for a base for this thing.....
So these are a selection of the quick & dirty prints/paint jobs I did on my modular Raider Planetary Exploration Vehicles I designed.
It wasn't my original intention for this to be school bus yellow, but since it ended up that way, I've decided I'm going to create some decals to make it look similar to the school bus my
Good day everyone, I've been working on a diorama display for some time now and I thought some of you may like the see my progress. I used AutoCad for my sketches and Inventor to build the 3D model. Then I used Blender to texture the model and Slicer to generate de code for my Prusa printer. The following pictures are the steps I went through so far. It’s my first big project. It's taking long but it's a learning experience. Let me know what you think about it so far.
The first image is a screenshot of the final model in Inventor.
Some sketches in AutoCad software.
Floor part in Invetor software.
Generating the code of the floor in Prusa Slicer software.
I got a printing error while printing the floor. The plastic filament and I had to stop the print.
On the next picture, we can see how the parts are on the inside. There is some supports but most of the part is empty to save on printing time and material.
I decided to print the remining floor tiles individually to salvage what I had already been printing. I then glued each tile on the base.
I had another printing error on the column, and I had the print another one.
The column was printed at the highest level of quality my Prusa i3 MK3S can print, which is at a 0.05mm of precision.
The arch was also printed at 0.05mm.
The level of detail is amazing. Even the ring was printed flawlessly without support.
Here’s a screenshot of the wall assembly after I completed texturing it in Blender.
Here’s a screenshot of the wall assembly in Slicer. I generated the code with supports to make sure the door arch would be print perfectly.
It looks perfect like this, so I didn’t see a problem coming.
Some parts of mu model were not right, there were some gaps. The software filled these gaps with support material, so when I see the issue, I decided not to stop the printing session. The support material is showing in drak green the the simulation.
After, when I generated the code without support, I could clearly see the gaps. I think this happened because there were errors, holes I didn’t correct or masking I didn’t remove, on the model I imported from Blender. I will need to investigate farther.
See the result after I removed all the support. Removing the support takes forever by the way. I’ll try to avoid supports if possible, in the future.
Here’s a picture of the wall. It took 40 hours to print only and probably another 40 hours to build, texture and clean the model. I still need to fill the gaps the Greenstuff.
Here are all the parts I printed for this project.
And, all the parts together. I haven’t glue anything yet. There is still some sanding and cleaning to do. I will paint each part separately.
I patched the gaps with liquid Green Stuff.
Closeup of the first layer of liquid Green Stuff.
I converted a 02712 Eye Best from Reaper Miniatures. This is the pewter version of model that was sculpted by Julie Guthrie. I added eye stalks from the 03440 Creature Components II, also from Reaper.
The Eye Best will be pinned on the wall and the door. All the adventurers I'll be displaying on the diorama are from Reaper Miniatures Dungeon Dwellers brand. From left to right; 07012 Caerindra Thistlemoor, 07004 Stitch Thimbletoe, 07002 Baran Blacktree and 07008 Luwin Phost.
The models can be moved from a recess to another to allow different layouts.
More to come soon!
Clorehaven & the Goblin Grotto, via @Kickstarter https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/printablescenery/clorehaven-and-the-goblin-grotto
The picturesque town of Clorehaven
A lively tavern, a variety of interesting and useful stores and fine lodgings is all the weary adventurer could ask for.
The locals seem polite and friendly. The beautiful stone and wood buildings tell you this small town is prosperous and will someday grow into a much larger city. But under the surface of the town, Clorehaven keeps a dark and foreboding secret.
Beneath the neat hedgerows and well-kept homes there lies a sprawling complex of caverns.
The deep goblins are a sniveling race of green-skins, plying their trade in the strange flora and fauna they gather from around mysterious pools.
Design and build your own medieval buildings using the Clorehaven OpenLOCK system. From simple houses to huge complex structures, anything is possible.
Explore the Goblin Grotto using the modular Grotto cavern system. Walls and floors can be combined to create a huge variety of underground caverns or above ground structures.
Who knows what’s in store for those above and what lies in the depths below. Clorehaven and the Goblin Grotto - By Printable Scenery - the best 3D printable scenery in all the worlds.
All the models from Clorehaven & the Goblin Grotto are delivered as optimized STL files to print on home 3D printers.
If you take the All-In Pledge, you also receive the free bonus items.
Clorehaven Pledge : Clorehaven is constructed using the OpenLOCK tile system where quality detailed modular and functional buildings can be constructed in any shape and size whilst maintaining the true 1" grid system used for most role playing games.
This pledge contains the models to build the Townhouse, Cottage, Homestead, Grand Hostel, Cabin, Tavern, Chalet, Watchtower and Schist Stone Fences. The Clorehaven Pledge includes the stretch goals labelled Clorehaven.
As the Kickstarter progresses the free stretch goals will grow and expand Clorehaven from a town into a city.
Goblin Grotto Pledge: The free form caverns create natural and expansive cavern maps and tunnel systems quickly and dynamically. The cavern floors are designed to have a comparable 1" grid system for RPG whilst still maintaining the natural rock form.
PLAY This pledge contains the Moon Effigy, the Goblin Cavern Floors, The Cavern Walls, The Cavern Tunnels, the Cavern Bridge, Rickety Bridges and the Gloom Creeper. The Goblin Grotto Pledgeincludes the stretch goals labelled Goblin Grotto.
All of our 3D-printable models begin their life as hand drawn concepts. From there we digitally sculpt the models to create high detail STL files. The models are test printed and painted before released so that you know each model from Printable Scenery will print perfectly.
Printable Scenery created the OpenLOCK system in 2016. Since then it has become the standard. Its innovative seamless locking system revolutionized dungeon system. Printable Scenery open-sourced the design and it allows for free commercial use to third party designers such as Open Forge.
The Free Stretch Goals are a big part of our Kickstarters. The more stretch goals we hit, the more models you will get. So join us in this grand adventure and discover the stretch goals beyond.
The bonus items listed below are free with the All-In Pledge.
If you want an add-on you need to add the amount to your pledge or you can add it in the pledge manager at the end of the campaign.
Note: If you want to get Add-Ons but not any of the main pledges then you can make a pledge for the amount for the Add-Ons only. To do this:
1. Select 'Back this Project' 2. Select '$1 or more - Add-Ons Only' 3. Enter the amount for the Add-Ons. Once the campaign closes you will be sent a link to the pledge manager to select the add-ons that you picked.
Ruined Winterdale II Add-On NZ$30
Back by popular demand, the Ruined Winterdale II Add-On contains 5 never before ruined buildings. To claim this add-on package you need to add the amount NZ$30 to your pledge or you can add it in the pledge manager at the end of the campaign.
Dungeon Booster Add-On NZ$50
The Dungeon Booster Add-on contains walls and floors that are designed to boost your Rampage dungeon encounters. To claim this add-on package you need to add the amount NZ$50 to your pledge or you can add it in the pledge manager at the end of the campaign.
Previous Kickstarter add-ons are bundled items that have been requested by backers from previous campaigns.
Click on the links below to see the list of models that are part of each Add-On. (eg. the Lost Tribes contains 13 models)
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