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Have some Pride!
Minis from the lovecraftian tentacled horror board game The Others: 7 Sins.
The Avatar of Pride
Leonine and resplendant. Unashamed. All Out. Pride.
The largest of all the Avatars, the base is a pillshaped 65mm x 45mm.
The Abominations of Pride:
25mm integral bases.
The Abominations of Pride are a further exploration of Contrast paints. And as it so happens, they are slightly reminiscent of rainbow stripes when on parade. This is in fact unintentional but at the same time oddly fitting.
These were basecoated in a light cream colour, and then each was given a single coat of a different contrast paint.
From the left: Creed Camo, Space Wolf Grey, Wildwood, Militarum Green, Plaguebearer Flesh, Darkoath Flesh.
I then tried to drybrush them a bit, but the contrast paint came off in patches, not being strong enough to resist the mechanical rubbing of the bristles. *sigh* and here I thought I was being extra gentle.
So this reinforces the earlier lesson of no drybrushing on contrast paints.
I put some carroburg crimson shade wash on the ends of the limbs and tentacles, and later some thinned Mephiston Red regular paint. Eyes in blue, some teeth, black bases with black flockmix and done.
All that Pride, and not a shred of Dignity.
These are the last of all my The Others: 7 Sins minis. Now their to-be-painted-box in the shelf is all empty and hollow, ready to be filled by someting shiny and new! Time to prep some more of the HATE minis perhaps?
Avatar and Abominations of Pride
From the base game set of The Others: 7 Sins boardgame, 2016
Guillotine Games / Studio McVey / CMON
PVC boardgame plastic
The boardgame and some expansions should still be available in the wild but seem to be getting scarce.
By Al Capwn
So CMON came out with an updated version of Project: Elite, a game that has been lauded as a super fun real time game. Thankfully, the contents of the game are a bit smaller than Zombicide: Invader, and the gameplay is a little bit more fun if I am being totally honest. Additionally, the scale of the miniatures are slightly larger, so instead of being around 25mm, they are closer to the 28-32mm heroic scale. Now that being said, this is a real time game. Which means that the miniatures will be handled a lot, and sometimes roughly. As much as I would like to slave over some of these, I am trying (key word here, trying) to keep the time investment shorter on this one. The chances of a paint job getting dinged up are just greater than some more casually-paced game. All figures receive a generous coat of varnish to help protect them as much as reasonably possible.
Here are some shots of the work so far...
Gustav (The 'Ahnold' clone.)
Pretty pleased with how his face turned out, probably one of the better ones I have done if I am being completely honest. This sculpt of the face was pretty clean and well-detailed, so painting it was really straight-forward.
Sandra (Totally not Jennifer Anniston)
This sculpt's face was a little wonky, specifically the lip area, which made getting her expression looking correct difficult. Additionally, I had accidentally ripped up a layer while using ScaleColor's skin tone paints, leaving some additional texture that I did not want. Still some areas to tidy up.
Used a combination of inks, Contrast paints, and regular ol' paint here. Skintone was actually done using ScaleColor's flesh tones, which I find tend to work pretty well for African skin tones. Shading on the shoulder pauldrons was done using purple, which gives a lovely and natural looking effect. This mini's color scheme though is totally all over the map, and the reds and greens are a little "Christmas" like. Not a huge deal, just not my favorite color choices here.
The runners have been my speed-paint job so far. They have lots of texture that a wash hooks into easily enough. They were given the typical zenithal priming treatment, but using a fairly bright pink color as their top highlight (this would be close to Rosy Skin Highlight in Reaper colors) and Reaper Burgundy Wine was used along their spine. They were given a coat or two of GW Reikland Fleshshade, and finally their lips/gums were highlighted with some Kimera Magenta + Burgundy Wine, and teeth with some Vallejo Flat Yellow + FW White Ink.
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This is my first time sharing my miniatures step by step, and excited to do so. Hopefully I can learn some things and everyone else who views the thread will learn a bit too.
I have been looking forward to the Starcadia board game and especially painting the minis that come with it. So first up is the Weeble alien monster. I picked it for 2 reasons, 1 because it was a simple model and I wanted to try my hand at the big eye. There are 4 total Weeble models and it took about 4-5 hours to get to the point in the last photo. I decided to mimic the illustration that came on the Weeble card in the game, so I am using a similar color scheme.
First step was prepping the model, and removing the mold lines. 2 of the 4 models had 2 bad areas on their left fin that left gaps and a rough spot. To fix it, I tried a new method, I put a little varnish on each area. If you haven't tried it, I definitely recommend it for small gaps or trouble areas that need filled or smoothed. I put a small dab on, let it dry and done, no need to pull out the putty.
2nd step was priming. I don't like the spray can so I use gesso. It might take a little longer, but no noxious fumes and extra space needed, just brush it on and let it dry. I just spread it thin and quick most of the time, hence the streaking in the picture. The streaking never shows on a finished mini from what I have experienced.
3 is where the fun began for me, choosing the colors and beginning to paint. My most recent elven minis, I started experimenting with different ways to do base coating and time around I am trying a colored base that is different that the final paint layer. I'm trying this out to see if I can reduce a step in my process and still get results I like. After examining the illustration, I settled on a blue-green for the body of the Weeble, and yellow for the eye. I plan on keeping with the warm yellow highlight in the front and the cold blue / purple shadow in the back. Once I decided that, I chose my basing colors, of a dark yellow brown for the front and dark blue purple for the back.
4 with the base shadows on the model, I started working from dark to light. I mixed up a glaze of a medium green and medium purple blue. I gradually worked up the colors with multiple layers making sure to blend the colors together where the transition occurred between them. I left the eye alone, because the dark yellow brown was perfect for the yellow eye.
5 once I was happy with the dark colors, I moved on to my mid-tones. I mixed up glazes of yellow green for the warm light and a blue green for the cold light. I took my time on this step again applying the glazes in layers to build up the color. I decided to try reflected / bounce lighting on the model, so I applied the blue green more on top of the model and the yellow green more on the bottom. I imagine the lighting being blue white (like a daylight bulb) which results a warmer reflected light in the areas not directly hit by the blue light.
6 after a while I moved on to the eye. I continued with painting dark to light, so I chose an orange brown for the light area and the same yellow brown and dark blue purple for the shadowed area. Again I gradually applied the glazes and blended them together.
Overall I am pleased with the direction it is going, and it is still far from done. I having gotten to the brightest highlights or even attempted the mouth yet. After that will be the finishing touches, the green slime, and scaly lumps. In the illustration the lumps are black but I don't think black will look good, any suggestions? I was also thinking of doing a slime trail, or more drool I've not done something like that before does anyone have any suggestions in the direction? Or should I not do a slime trail or more drool?
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