Jump to content

Jasper vs the 3D Printer


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 406
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

7 hours ago, haldir said:

Also filament rolls will become paint bottles as you'll start collecting more of them as you want different colors, etc etc. Speaking of which, I need a very bright color. Gonna print out some D&D 5e condition token rings & they need to be visible.

 

& before I left for D&D tonight, I was browsing ebay & the same seller I bought my brown had restocked, so I ended up buying a bright purple roll from him/her/them (out of California). Looking forward to making those 5e status token/rings.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3170767

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, haldir said:

 

& before I left for D&D tonight, I was browsing ebay & the same seller I bought my brown had restocked, so I ended up buying a bright purple roll from him/her/them (out of California). Looking forward to making those 5e status token/rings.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3170767

Those are pretty cool.

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Jasper_the_2nd  Sorry if you already mentioned this, but when you've been printing your tanks and mechs, what kind of profile settings are you using.

 

Everything I've printed to date has been the printer upgrade parts recommended by Tom at FDG and they all printed very well with his Terrain Fast profile.  I'm looking to start printing things that will have more detail, and I'm curious if you are using the same basic profiles, or if you've tweaked them in any way. 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been using custom settings but I finally dl'ed Tom's settings. They work out pretty well for their intended purposes. After I printed that dice cage/prison the other day I forgot to reset my profile before printing out a curved tower wall/floor piece last night. It took around 8 hrs to print off (using I think it was the stock draft setting in Cura 3.6) I did switch it back to Tom's terrain & it would have taken over 10 hrs. Just a quick glance at the finished piece I don't really see any difference, other then Tom's profile is a tad bit more detailed vs whatever setting I used. (comparing 2 Fat Dragon pieces).


Even thou, there was close to 3 hr difference, I'll stick with Tom's profile thou. He's been doing this for a hell of lot longer then me.

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I normally use Tom's profiles as well, with the occasional tweak to switch to a brim for something tall and skinny.

I have a super slowed down version (probably of the minis profile) that I use for really skinny stuff with a lot of jumping between printing, like those cursed gantries.

For the modular tank system, I wasn't happy with anything less than the minis profile (I'm still on the v1-7 btw, I know he released a new v1-8 for the .4 nozzle on the weekend (and a v1-9 for the .3) but I haven't even downloaded them yet.

The buildings were all done with one of Tom's terrain profiles. I've tried both the fast and slow and can't seem any real difference in what I'm printing.

Lately, for bigger things, I've been trying out the Curo default Extra Fast , and it's been decent.  The elevated roads and the like have been done with that as I sorted out scale. Unless I run into strength problems or something I'll likely keep using that for those. The connectors for them might need a better profile....

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, the reason I ask.  Not sure if you or Haldir watch Chuck Hellebuyck on YouTube (CHEP), but I watched a video this morning that discussed the "magic number" for the Ender 3.  This magic number is the ratio between the distance traveled for one full revolution of the z-axis lead screw (8mm) and number of natural steps in the z-axis stepper motor (200).  This gives a value of 0.04mm/step, and the recommendation is that all layers heights should be a multiple of this value.

 

Since I've only been using the one profile, and haven't tweaked or otherwise explored the other profiles, I was wondering if any personal experimentation had been done to play with the layer heights.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, Clearman said:

So, the reason I ask.  Not sure if you or Haldir watch Chuck Hellebuyck on YouTube (CHEP), but I watched a video this morning that discussed the "magic number" for the Ender 3.  This magic number is the ratio between the distance traveled for one full revolution of the z-axis lead screw (8mm) and number of natural steps in the z-axis stepper motor (200).  This gives a value of 0.04mm/step, and the recommendation is that all layers heights should be a multiple of this value.

 

Since I've only been using the one profile, and haven't tweaked or otherwise explored the other profiles, I was wondering if any personal experimentation had been done to play with the layer heights.

 

I haven't seen that one, thou I'm slowly starting to watch more Youtube vids when it comes to my various hobbies. Love em, but something about listening to people talk about the hobby can be either great or eh. I guess it depends on the quality of the presenter (ex I'm not a big fan nose talkers or tones of people when trying to talk through a video. My son watches Ut vids all the time on the tv in the living room & yah some of them are a bit unbearable to listen to). Oddly, I've started to watch a Englishman talking about the Ender 3. (Talking Tech I think) & I'm discovering a few things I was dreading but now have allot more confidence in doing.

 

I may have to take a look at the fast profiles if I'm to get these pieces done for next Monday & overall the Cragmaw layout (which won't be needed for at least a couple of weeks). At 4 hrs average completion time, this is gonna take awhile.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I think I've managed to save this print.

rescued.thumb.jpg.5dfba37c2e80c9a4e8992d3a77d9ce9f.jpg

It ran out of filament (I didn't realize I was so close to finishing the spool) but finished the print job.

First I loaded more filament, which is a bit strange as the bowden tube is still full. I went with the orange as I want to print somethings in orange this weekend and so I could see when it changed to the new spool. So I cut it square (I usually cut it at an angle) and pushed it in as best I could, then used the controls to extrude some.  It came out so that seemed to be working. 

Found a video that explained a bit about editing gcode to handle this.

I produced a new file of gcode from Cura, but turned off the adhesion layer, to make sure I didn't miss it and have it try to print a skirt.

I measured the height of the printout (digital calipers are awesome) 19.35 mm.

I edited the new gcode and looked for a Layer about where I thought it was at based on looking at layers in Cura.  I guessed 102. So I searched for LAYER:102

I found it, but it was too high.  2 lines below the LAYER line is where it starts the layer:

;LAYER:102
;MESH:ModHab_upper.stl
G0 X133.057 Y78.532 Z20.6

 

So layer 102 starts at Z of 20.6mm.
So I searched on Z19 

As layers seem to be every .2 I found Z19, Z19.2, Z19.4, etc.

Z19.4 is very close so I went with that.  LAYER:96. I'll start there.

So taking the line  above LAYER:96 I deleted everything up to and including LAYER:0  (btw, gcode used proper "start from 0" counting, so layers will be off by 1 from what Cura shows)

Now if we look at what is before LAYER:0 (which is now LAYER:96), we see some custom start code specific to the Ender 3:

; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G28 ; Home all axes
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
; End of custom start GCode

 

If you read through that you'll see this is the code that moves everything home and then draws that double line up and down the left side.

I left all that as I wanted to make sure it was good and ready to print.  But there is one thing to make sure you change if doing this:

G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed

I changed this to:

G1 Z22.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed

This will adjust the Z axis before starting the first layer. I made sure to adjust it above the height the print was at.  If not, it might try moving all 3 axes at once or something and the print head would plow into the partially complete printout.

 

Then I saved the modified gcode and told the printer to go.  

Nervously watched it, but all seems good.

 

One thing to note. When you switch filaments but don't pull out the remaining bit from the bowden tube, retraction won't work until that piece is gone. The extruder will retract the new filament, but that separate piece will just sit in the tube while the new filament that has been shoving it backs off for a moment.

 

Oh, and the piece I'm printing is a level of a modular habitat complex.  I was planning to post a pic once I got this level done anyway, but I'll post all of it I have printed tomorrow as it will take this some time to cool enough to pop off the bed once it is finished.

  • Like 11
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Jasper_the_2nd said:

So, shockingly, that worked out great!

mod_hab_two_tone.jpg.a29ce950f9c36746b8aea5069e4c5c0a.jpg

Kind of like drybrushing with a 3D printer...

 

 

As mentioned this is a modular habitation complex, currently up to 4 stories.

mod_hab_4_stories.jpg.a2a796a92ee4c8a19ea617d339583bc3.jpg

 

I think I want to go to 6 or so.

 

Ohhh my, that's outright delicious looking.  I might seriously have to pick up that 3D printer.  I suppose I'd have to find somewhere to put it first though.

  • Like 3
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, hosercanadian said:

That is a pretty sweet design.  Where did you get it from?

Found it on Thingiverse, by user  KJdidit .  "Epic/Battletech scale Modular Habitation Complex".
By default it is scaled for 6mm, so I scaled up for CAV.

 

40 minutes ago, WhiteWulfe said:

Ohhh my, that's outright delicious looking.  I might seriously have to pick up that 3D printer.  I suppose I'd have to find somewhere to put it first though.

 

The Ender 3 will fit into less than a 2 foot by 2 foot square (19" by 21"). Mine is on the corner of my desk.  No excuses!^_^

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Similar Content

    • By Lidless Eye
      Another one from Crippled God Foundry, focusing on ruined terrain (with non-ruins as a future stretch goal) and more creepy Undead and graveyard dwellers.

      https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/crippledgodfoundry/ruins-of-hollow-hills/description

       
      “Ruins of Hollow Hills” is a collection of Fantasy Ruined Buildings, Thematic Scenery Pieces and Miniatures as 3D Printable Files for Resin and FDM printing.
      All the buildings, scenery and miniatures from this campaign are designed for tabletop role play, skirmish games, wargames of 28-32 miniature scale or for use with your scale model projects!
       All the Buildings, Scenery & Miniatures from this Campaign are 3D PRINTABLE FILES ONLY!
      This means that you have to print the miniatures in a Resin or FDM 3D Printer .
       
      In the picture below you can see all the buildings, terrain pieces & miniatures included in the Core Set:



      They also have add-ons with STLs from their previous projects as well as their ended Monstrober promotions.
       
       
    • By Auberon
      A small set of figures and a coach.
       
      https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/taintedsaintminis/high-noon-quality-wild-west-miniatures?ref=recommendation-projectpage-footer-4
       

    • By Auberon
      There were some KS that I browsed into the other day.  I didn't see them posted here yet, but I didn't look super hard either. Apologies to a mod if they have to merge some threads.
       
      First up, Printomancer is taking some models they have previously released and making busts.  The full figures are available as add-ons.
       
      https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/printomancer/fantasy-busts-and-miniatures-stl-files-3d-models
       
       

    • By Auberon
      Last Sword Miniatures is adding an Elven Army to their ranks. It also comes with some terrain.
       
      https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/lastsword/elven-lords-the-tree-kin?ref=recommendation-projectpage-footer-3
       

    • By Auberon
      EDIT:  Oops, this is one I didn't mean to post as I did see a thread for it.
       
      Do you need a fortress?
       
      https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/decoquestworkshop/the-grimness-fortress?ref=recommendation-projectpage-footer-4
       

×
×
  • Create New...