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12 minutes ago, Corsair said:

That turned out really nice. You are getting good with that thing

You say that, but I've spent all day trying to get another copy of the gantry printed out. 3 failures printing it vertically and so far even trying it horizontally won't stick well on the first layer.

Another thorough cleaning of the bed and attempt #6 of the day is about to start.

 

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9 hours ago, kristof65 said:

Have you tried slowing the printer down?  I've found that sometimes tall and narrow things do better if the speed of the printhead is a bit slower.

 

I'm going to look into that today, since I expect to be at the computer most of the day.  Sooooo many settings....

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Yeah, i don't like those tall narrow things - the taller they go, the more a little problem at the nozzle can torque them free of the baseplate. 

I'm currently printing out a boatload of Terrain4Print's Ulvhiem Modular ruins, and have had several break loose because they're about 3" tall by 3/4" wide.    The good thing about ruins though is that a little bit of putty usually makes aborted prints salvageable and thus still useful.

Other factors I've found are:
- room temperature - I have more problems with prints breaking free on cold days (the room where my printer is is not the best insulated, so runs colder/hotter than the rest of the house)
- nozzle temp too high, causing stringing - too much stringing, and you can get build up around the nozzle. 

- nozzle clogs

- old filament

- tangled filament

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Victory!!!

gantry_victory.jpg.a07c5181e8312d529340038cc5476b33.jpg

Yes, that is severe overkill on the brim.

I suspect that dropping the transit speed down did it.

 

Now I still have to print the two horizontal beams. Not sure if I will try those vertical or horizontal to print.  Both have their pros and cons.  Won't be happening today anyway. Game night.

 

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18 minutes ago, Jasper_the_2nd said:

Victory!!!

 

Yes, that is severe overkill on the brim.

I suspect that dropping the transit speed down did it.

Yeah!

I wouldn't call that overkill - I'd call it less plastic used than a failed print would use.

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While the gantry was printing I received Fat Dragon Games latest newsletter, which always has a free .stl associated with it.

This month was a preview of their upcoming KS, coming in about 4 weeks.  "Lizardfolk, goblins, dragons, orcs, and much more will be included! " all of which can be printed without supports.  Sounds interesting.

Here's a pic of the goblin that was the preview.

ks_preview_fig.jpg.5b845f1bd8519bb699f5bc19f1f74d3f.jpg

My still unpainted barbarian was handy for a size comparison. A bit bigger than my other goblins I would say, but I could always scale them down a few percent...

 

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If you paint on colours do a very heavy drybrush if the colours over a concrete colour and it will achieve the effect if faded and peeling paint on concrete at that scale.

 

Otherwise, newer paint tends to be bright and crisp and most modern buildings tend to be in two tones (main colour and highlight colour on accents).

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Using a foam to stiple greys, blacks, whites, and browns helps with concrete effects. Just depends if you are looking at old or new concrete on which colors you use. 

 

Edit: The first time I used the technique was on my building for CAV. http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/81706-krulebear-finished-terrain-for-cav/&do=findComment&comment=1732594

Edited by KruleBear
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