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ced1106

Mantic : Terrain Crate 2 KS

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I'm curious, but the era isn't too much in my style...Granted the gothic/victorian COULD be useful for Stra- I mean...a Vampire Aristocrat..

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I didn’t back the first terrain crate but I did get given one of the boxes by FIL for my birthday and I really liked it- if the price it right I can see myself backing this quite thoroughly. Yes I found some of the plastic needed boiling the thinner bits- but I can’t bring myself to complain about that when I do the same for bones without complaint

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I quite like the terrain crate 1 stuff I got (except the floor torches, too wiggly) but I don't think I need it in the quantities that they're going to want to sell it for a KS pledge. So maybe I'll get random stuff retail, unless they add some new scifi stuff that I really want.

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Heh - I have been asked to bring our Terrain Crate 1 stuff to tonight's game - it sounds like Sam has been talking about it.

 

The camp stuff, in particular, will be good.

 

The Auld Grump - I keep calling it my Terrain Crate stuff, but Megan is the one that has painted most of it....

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20 hours ago, ced1106 said:

I'll probably throw cash at the "one of each basic box" pledge, like I did before

 

Ditto. I mostly play D&D and Call of Cthulhu, so these new sets seem perfect for me. The only down-side is that I have too much unpainted terrain.

 

Any tips for getting Terrain Crates table-ready easily? I dry-brushed some of the brown pieces with light-brown... it seemed good enough.

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8 hours ago, mvincent said:

 

Ditto. I mostly play D&D and Call of Cthulhu, so these new sets seem perfect for me. The only down-side is that I have too much unpainted terrain.

 

Any tips for getting Terrain Crates table-ready easily? I dry-brushed some of the brown pieces with light-brown... it seemed good enough.

A really big brush for dry brushing with Dwarven Forge paints is my strategy.

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14 hours ago, mvincent said:

 

Any tips for getting Terrain Crates table-ready easily? I dry-brushed some of the brown pieces with light-brown... it seemed good enough.

 

I went over mine in brown craft paint because I wasn't sure how well wash would apply to the bare plastic, I picked out a few details that would be other colours (metal or paper bits) then I did a very light tan drybrush over everything and a black wash to tone down the drybrush and shade- I think it worked out okay! 

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23 hours ago, mvincent said:

Any tips for getting Terrain Crates table-ready easily?

 

For wood and gold, you could spray paint with Army Painter Leather Brown colored primer. For wood, then wash with brown Strong Tone ink. For gold, drybrush with a gold metallic paint.

 

pic3255043.jpg

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1 hour ago, ced1106 said:

you could spray paint with Army Painter Leather Brown colored primer. For wood, then wash with brown Strong Tone ink. 

 

 

I did something similar for my Reaper Bones, but Army Painter Leather Brown primer came out far too dark when combined with Army Painter Strong Tone ink/dip (aka Minwax Polyshades Tudor satin stain). Army Painter Fur Brown primer seemed to work better for dark brown results, while Desert Yellow primer worked well for a light brown/sepia results.

 

I dipped several hundred Bones this way, but I didn't like this technique when I tried it on terrain. Dry-brushing seemed more suitable (plus: it didn't require a mat spray afterwards to take off the gloss).

Edited by mvincent
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A grandfather clock and a piano....I can now almost create my Resident Evil themed campaign!  I Just need a Wesker, Jill, Chris, Barry, Rebecca and Tyrant minis...Get to it reaper! 

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On 1/8/2019 at 3:39 PM, mvincent said:

 

Ditto. I mostly play D&D and Call of Cthulhu, so these new sets seem perfect for me. The only down-side is that I have too much unpainted terrain.

 

Any tips for getting Terrain Crates table-ready easily? I dry-brushed some of the brown pieces with light-brown... it seemed good enough.

Megan's method was to spray pretty much everything with a brown Army Painter primer, then after drying, blocking in all the colors, followed by a dip in MinWax Polyshade. (I introduced her to the method... and I may have created a monster - she ended up doing about 2/3 of the models that way. In about a week. ::o: )

 

The Auld Grump

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On 1/9/2019 at 9:24 PM, mvincent said:

 

I did something similar for my Reaper Bones, but Army Painter Leather Brown primer came out far too dark when combined with Army Painter Strong Tone ink/dip (aka Minwax Polyshades Tudor satin stain). Army Painter Fur Brown primer seemed to work better for dark brown results, while Desert Yellow primer worked well for a light brown/sepia results.

 

I dipped several hundred Bones this way, but I didn't like this technique when I tried it on terrain. Dry-brushing seemed more suitable (plus: it didn't require a mat spray afterwards to take off the gloss).

 

14 hours ago, TheAuldGrump said:

Megan's method was to spray pretty much everything with a brown Army Painter primer, then after drying, blocking in all the colors, followed by a dip in MinWax Polyshade. (I introduced her to the method... and I may have created a monster - she ended up doing about 2/3 of the models that way. In about a week. ::o: )

 

The Auld Grump

 

Good to know- I saw a post that said this plastic stayed tacky with spray primers (similar to bones) so I didnt risk it- probably would have saved me a good amount of time!

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Army Painter is one of the better primers, in regards to tackiness - I have never had a problem with it, though I have seen one person complain on another forum. (At a guess, the manufacturer did a substitution on the solvent for the primer. It's not like anyone would notice, right?)

 

The Auld Grump

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