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Talae

Graveyard Set - aka Talae's Feeble Attempt at Airbrushing

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I picked up an airbrush kit on sale back in November. It came with two brushes, a compressor, and some other stuff.

 

Here is a picture:

Screenshot_20190102-114419_Chrome.thumb.jpg.a8eb988ec062cbfb6d1f965291e7af86.jpg

 

The brush that I have been using mostly so far is the Badger Patriot 105. I say mostly because I have sprayed paint through it more than once, lol. I started with the bottom fed one (the 350) for one sitting of like 30 minutes, then tried another sitting with the 105 for like 30 minutes.

 

I have since used the 105 for something like three sittings of 30-60 minutes. My total airbrush experience is something like 2.5 hours plus another 1.5 hours of cleaning and practice assembly.

 

I have primarily just tried primers. The latest attempt has been applying Vallejo Surface Primer (black) to some of the graveyard set, namely the crypt and the fencing.

 

Here are those results (minus a rogue golem arm that missed being airbrushed until I cleaned up and was later brushed with the same color in order to prevent having to clean the airbrush for one piece):

20190104_114615.thumb.jpg.ea1b78ec085c5420668ddde490d821df.jpg

 

I am thinking that I might try and use my Dwarven Forge paints to make this match the Dungeon terrain I have, but am not sure yet...and if I do go that route, would it be better to go with my typical dry rush route or should I be trying to apply colors on top of this with the airbrush? Or is there a different approach that I should be taking?

Edited by Talae
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Did you have trouble cleaning the Vallejo primer out of your brush? It was the first thing I ever put through my original Patriot, that I bought back in 2015, and it was a real PITA to clean when I was done. I had to completely disassemble the brush and scour the needle with a rough sponge because it just wouldn't come off with airbrush cleaner.

 

I don't know if I let it sit too long because I was ignorant at the time or what, but it formed a skin in the cup, in the barrel, in the nozzle, just everywhere. I don't think that airbrush was the same after that, which is why last year I bought a second during the birthday sale. And that's the one I'm using now.

 

As for the drybrush vs airbrush, why not do both? Dry brush the columns in various grays and brown-grays to make them look like some worn stone, then maybe try a bit of loose masking and some lightly sprayed greens in spots to make it look a little mossy?

 

Or maybe do something I saw, where you hold a stencil above what you're wanting to paint and then spray onto the stencil itself, so it forms soft sprays behind the stencil while the stencil takes the majority of the paint. The further above the object you hold the stencil, the more spray actually gets behind the stencil as well as to the side of it, so you could hold the stencil a few inches away, spray the greens onto the stencil, and let the overspray or whatever it's called do the moss effect by being softer and more subtle than trying to feather the brush directly onto the piece. It's the method they use to give the illusion of a sphere when stenciling with an airbrush. They spray the stencil itself, and then you have a harder, more solid color in the spot where you sprayed the stencil directly, while it softens up as empty space gets farther away. But if you hold the stencil above the work piece rather than on it, it fuzzes the edges because spray gets around and under the stencil...

 

I know, I'm talking about stuff I've never done as if I've done it. It's what happens when I read and watch a bunch of stuff about a subject.

Edited by Unruly
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@Unruly - use acetone to remove caked on acrylic paint on your airbrushes, cleans it right off with a paper towel

 

Loth

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I didn't have too much issues. I thinned it with water and had a clogged tip that I emptied things into my trash cup once and ran water through everything before going back to painting. Then I cleaned everything at the end by removing the tip, but not the needle.

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3 hours ago, NecroMancer said:

@Unruly what primer do you use now?

 

The last time I primed anything I used the Vallejo, but that was almost 2 years ago at this point I think. I haven't painted anything since until just recently, and that was a Bones model that I just cleaned thoroughly and started with regular paint. I'm thinking that the next time I buy a primer I'll give Badger's Stynylrez, or however it's spelled, a shot. I've heard a lot of good things about it.

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I have a small sample bottle of the green Stylenz, but I only used it once on the first day I messed with my airbrush. The color didn't meet my needs for my graveyard terrain.

 

Tonight I decided to utilize the Regdab after spending some time cleaning my 105. I spent longer doing that than planned, so I didn't actually run any paint through the brush tonight.

 

I did pick out a few more pieces to try and prime and I am left with a question. The ritual circle has clear candles. How do I handle that? Should I try and mask them? If so how? They are so small.

20190109_233011.thumb.jpg.546ca48130bf37267c356f0e28033e22.jpg

 

I also dug out the other graveyard set. I might as well paint it all at the same time.

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40 minutes ago, Talae said:

I have a small sample bottle of the green Stylenz, but I only used it once on the first day I messed with my airbrush. The color didn't meet my needs for my graveyard terrain.

 

I did pick out a few more pieces to try and prime and I am left with a question. The ritual circle has clear candles. How do I handle that? Should I try and mask them? If so how? They are so small.

 

 

You can use Silly Putty to mask the candles. No kidding. It's ideal for masking things like that, and it's usually available at dollar stores so it isn't hard to find.

 

 

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Or bluetac, it works well for masking.

I picked up a 6 pack of Stynylrez primers before Christmas.  The bit I've done with them I like.  I'll hopefully be trying out priming some 3D printed stuff a bit later today.

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I use white or blue tac for masking.  Vallejo also makes a masking fluid that you can paint on and let it dry and it peels up once you're done.  I think @knarthex wrote up a thread giving it a review and showing how he used it awhile back. 

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Thanks everyone! I have blue and white poster tac already, so that works out well. I will try that.

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On 1/9/2019 at 5:05 AM, Loth said:

@Unruly - use acetone to remove caked on acrylic paint on your airbrushes, cleans it right off with a paper towel

 

Loth

That may NOT be a good idea with the 105.  

It has some sort of plastic(Nylon?) seal around the needle where it enters the paint chamber, and many plastics does notlike acetone... at all...   

 

Badger doesn't recommend dismantling the 105 at all. 

So it's important to shoot through some cleaner the moment you've finished spraying. 

In fact, never spray it empty of paint, either. (that would allow paint to start drying at the bottom of the cup and around the needle)

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4 hours ago, Talae said:

Thanks everyone! I have blue and white poster tac already, so that works out well. I will try that.

 

Poster tac will work in a pinch, but Silly Putty is much much easier to work with. It's softer and more malleable so it takes a lot less force to put on and remove (toothpick). It's easier to get it in just the right place which makes it less prone to model breakage. It's worth picking up an egg next time you're at a shop that has some. 

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Silly putty is used allot in one of the editor's of Scale Auto Magazine as well. Need parts masked in a engine compartment? Just smash some SP & work it around. It works!

 

As far as Regdab goes, I haven't used what I got when I bought my Sotar, a couple RCons ago but I have used Paasche's lube on the needle in my Paasche Millenium & it works. I'm sure Regdab is pretty much the same thing.

 

All the airbrush talk on here lately, makes me wish my inside studio/hobby setup was up & running. Alas, until that happens I'm stuck airbrushing outside when it warmer.

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