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Unruly

Unruly's Mantic Giant WIP

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So I'm painting up the Mantic Giant. I'm calling him James, because the head I'm using is very much a James Hetfield head.

 

Say hi, James.20190113_184414.thumb.jpg.a38da18b2a31f9533c1039934ecd306b.jpg

 

I started off by priming with a sample of Badger's Stynylrez that I got with last year's RCon swag bag and my Badger Patriot 105 airbrush. I'm pretty sure the primer is their olive green. I used the olive green because I couldn't find the sample bottle of the more off-white/yellow Stynylrez primer that I got from the swag bag two years ago. Then I found it after I finished priming and started trying to mix up a flesh tone. Go figure. I didn't take any pictures of the primed pieces, because all they were was olive green all over.

 

When mixing up my skin tone, I wanted something tanned looking, but darker and more bronzed than Reaper's tanned skin. I wanted it to look more like how the skin of someone who works outside all summer long tends to look, with that almost leather look that they tend to get. After all, a giant like this guy isn't going to be spending a lot of time indoors, especially not if he's part of an army.

 

 

So I started with Vallejo bronze fleshtone and leather brown in roughly equal parts. Which ended up too orange. So I upped the leather brown, and it was still too orange. So I added in Reaper Tanned Shadow, and I almost got it where I wanted. The final touch was some Reaper tanned skin, and I got it to be good enough. Don't ask me proportions, because after the first mix I have no idea. I just threw some color in, stuck it to the vortex mixer for a few seconds, and then looked again to see if I liked it. I finished it off by making it airbrush-ready with some Createx 4012 reducer.

 

In this picture, it's the unlabeled bottle in the middle. The other bottles are the paints I mixed together to get it.1547425469159-1726532959.thumb.jpg.cb2decdd1d75ccc86a2c8f15d9d4cf05.jpg

 

Now, armed with my skintone, I decided that I wanted to try a different airbrush. So I broke out my Badger Renegade Krome for the very first time and started applying. The difference between the Krome and the Patriot is night and day because of one simple, but amazing, feature - an adjustable trigger stop. It's freaking sweet. No worries about over spraying massive amounts of paint accidentally, and you have so much more control over your lines because of it.

 

And the skin is where I stopped for the night.

 

 

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This is number 1 of 2 for me. The other one is going to be a lot more work, because he's gonna be the frost giant. That resin is pretty clean in terms of mold lines, but they still need a ton of cleanup to remove all the gating. There's a whole lot of them. Which is going to mean a whole lot of sanding and cutting.

 

But for this guy? He's a rush job. The only prep work I did on him was cutting off a fuzzy bit of plastic on one of his toes and boiling a couple pieces to fix bends and fitting issues. I'm not gonna green stuff the seams on his torso, I didn't shave the slim little mold lines down on his head, I'm not even gonna do anything with whatever gaps are left when I glue his head and arms on.

 

The one thing I will say is be careful when you're priming. I don't know if it was my primer not being mixed well enough or if I didn't manage to clean the pieces well enough, but it seemed like the pieces are just really hydrophobic. It felt like I really had to hose them down with primer to keep it from beading.

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Nice work so far!

 

It is nice to hear about the Krome trigger stop being so great. Makes me anxious to get my Sotar 20/20.

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Tried to do some more. I think the head is just about done. All that's left is the teeth and eyes, followed by a wash. The eyebrows are uneven, but whatever. He's a giant, and it's meant for the tabletop. He isn't going to be perfectly manicured.20190114_132324.thumb.jpg.5a3f9056eecb34d435aaea1b593e1b9c.jpg20190114_132333.thumb.jpg.bea7866866ace482a965008db96e47a6.jpg20190114_132346.thumb.jpg.c2b6534e9e5128bae5c518e852854cdb.jpg

 

Also tried something with the fur cloak. I dunno how good it looks, or if I like it yet. I painted it gray, then went back over it with black that I tried to feather on, but failed at. I wanted it to look a little bit like how natural fur looks, where it can be a lighter base color with darker colors spread throughout in varying intensities.20190114_132715.thumb.jpg.0f9bef1a71a34bd209a2b801f5427d6d.jpg20190114_132730.thumb.jpg.a4a92143848bd3626ceffddc226ed7ca.jpg

 

I also tried to do some masking for the furred areas under his armor, but in the process I learned that liquid masking is very finicky and has a tendency, despite its thickness, to run and form a thin layer that isn't possible to peel off. So I need to get some silly putty or start planning to use a whole lot of blue tack for everything else. Because I'm not going to do liquid masking for anything with a lot of details anymore. I still don't have it all cleaned off of his arms, because it's just so thin and in the crevices so much that I'm probably going to be scraping paint off when I try.

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Even more work for today. I may have messed up a bit, but the more I look at it, the more I kind of like it. I went back to the skin and hit it with some darker brown in spots, and now it really has that old farmer look. Or even a bit of Klingon. But I kind of overdid it in a few spots. Don't know if I'll try to fix then or just leave it as is, though.

 

I also added some color to him with the shields and a few blood stains, which I'll need to adjust as I get closer to finishing him. I put him together as much as I could without glue, just to see how he's looking so far, and I'm gonna need to expand the stains to other pieces for continuity.

 

I even broke out the regular brushes today, and it's obvious where I used them. I'd have probably slopped less paint around if I'd stayed with the airbrush...

 

Oh, and the head is now done. Or at least as done as it's gonna get. He's got some monster mouth going on, because I guess during the priming and base coating I kind of flooded his mouth with paint, so the teeth really don't show like they should. But I did get his lips a different color, which I like. I took the base skintone I had mixed up and mixed it with some Old West Rose. It gave it a slightly pink color, making it look pretty natural rather than lipstick-like. The eyes aren't perfect either, but they aren't bad. I really like that the pupils are actually holes in the eye. It makes it easier to just paint them an off-white and call it a day without it looking terrible.

 

I've got probably close to 8 hours of work on this guy so far. For only being like the 20th mini I've ever really painted, and the first one I've ever really used an airbrush on for anything more than priming, I think he's really coming along well.

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For someone who hasn't done much airbrushing this seems to be coming together really well!  I can't offer any suggestions since I know nothing about airbrushing, but the skin especially is starting to look good.  

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On 1/14/2019 at 12:39 AM, Talae said:

Nice work so far!

 

It is nice to hear about the Krome trigger stop being so great. Makes me anxious to get my Sotar 20/20.

 

So after working with it for quite a few hours over two days, I'll now say that the trigger stop is great, but it isn't a panacea. It does help with control, that's for sure. It's nice to be able to dial it in real close to the rest position and spray just a bit of paint without worrying about dumping a ton of paint by pulling back too far. However, I've had to keep going back and forth with it to keep paint flowing. Meaning that without cranking up the paint flow and spraying into a paper towel or something, it stops spraying paint when you keep it dialed real close to resting. I don't know if it has to do with tip dry, and turning the paint level up helps blast it out, or if it's something else. Maybe I'm not thinning my paint enough? I was trying to figure it out earlier but I'm not really any closer because I was still trying to paint rather than focusing entirely on cause and effect.

 

But whatever it is, it's something to watch for.

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Well, I think he's going to be going into the bath. In a stellar display of why you shouldn't try to rush things, I decided to wash his skin with GW's reikland fleshshade. Now all my good work on the skin looks like crap and he's way darker than I thought he would be.

 

So into the bath he goes after this weekend, when I'm going to use him for a game or two. Then I'm going to start all over. Good thing I have plenty of the flesh tone that I mixed for him still. And I've learned a few things along the way, so it should go easier this next time around. Namely, don't try to wash over areas that I've already largely shaded with the airbrush. And if I wash with a GW wash again, go for the sepia, not the reikland...

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There’s no reason to put it in a bath unless you really want to; you’re airbrushing so the layer of paint on there is already thin. Plus if you go light with the next layer the shading you done can come through.

 

Loth

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17 minutes ago, Loth said:

There’s no reason to put it in a bath unless you really want to; you’re airbrushing so the layer of paint on there is already thin. Plus if you go light with the next layer the shading you done can come through.

 

Loth

 

Well, that would be true if I'd primed correctly. The primer went on thick, because it was beading up otherwise. I don't know if it's just the material or if my washing wasn't as good as I thought it was. All I know I'd that I had to really pool it up to not have it split into smaller beads.

 

I think a total restart will be good for it.

Edited by Unruly
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