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Marineal

Resin... *shudder*

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Alright! I have an idea! 

But I don't know what to do with it!

 

I need advice on resin. I want to make a water scene. 

I've seen some pretty epic ones, and I'm thinking like a 2-3 inch deep pour.

I have several questions:

 

1. What kind of resin is the best for this?

2. How do people get such a smooth effect if they pour 74 layers?!

3. Do I have to pour 74 layers?!

4. Do you have a good place to go read about this?

 

So far it seems very subjective, which I expect to some degree. But I don't want to be using something that I have to pour in 1/4 inch cubic areas and then wait 4 hours and then sand it and then mix it and then do it all again...

halp.

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Hi!

 

Never done this myself, but I can offer some advice for a few questions:

 

1) No clue what the best brand of resin is, but I would avoid polyester resins unless you have some seriously good ventilation. They smell horrible and stink up the house. Try to find epoxy resins.

4) I would recommend this video from a youtuber named Terrain Wench. She does a resin pour, some tint, and some waves and ripples (if your scene needs them?). It's where I would start, at the least.

 

Good luck!

 

-MvM

 

P.S. IMHO seriously good ventilation = a laboratory grade fumehood. Or maybe an isolated shed/garage that you can leave open for a day and a respirator while doing the mix and pour.

Edited by ManvsMini
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Epoxy resin is totally the way to go.  You might need to do multiple pours if you have stuff embedded in it to manage bubbles, but not large numbers of layers.  I started playing with resin in jewelry and that pretty much directly transferred to basing.  

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this article from reaper's the craft  index is good and has a lot of troubleshooting tips.

 

I bought envirotex lite, which is used mainly for finishing surfaces, but it mixes and pours just fine and it's nice and cheap.  When I first played with it, I started small and mixed a few tiny batches in blister packs.  I've never poured very deep, but I've always poured in one layer.  One key is keeping dust away from the project while it dries, which can take days depending on the depth before it is fully cured. Most things I do have a bit of paint mixed int he water, so I can't tell you if it yellows with age or not.

 

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Corporea's tip about keeping dust out is hugely helpful.  I usually cover anything for 8-12 hours and let it cure for 24 hours. 

 

If you really want to go down the rabbit hole, there are some amazing works of art done in Japan with layers of paint and clear resin to make it look like there are live fish swimming in the resin.  YouTube has some demo videos of the technique.  

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Like Corporeal, I have used Envirotex Lite and have had no issues so far. I have heard of doing multiple layers for deep pours but only a few layers. Multiple layers should not be an issue once the sides are sanded down but if you tint the water, you may have variations in the color if you are not exact. If you do multiple pours you will have to wait for each layer to dry which takes at least a day, usually more but you don’t need to sand between them. Before attempting something that deep, I would definetly do some test bases first to get a feel for the resin. 

 

Check out Massive Voodoo, Josua Lai is a master at water and he did a tutorial for them a while back.

Edited by SGHawkins09
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Y'all are the best! 

I appreciate the help so much! I was kind of searching all over the place and kept feeling like I was just spinning my wheels. 

I definitely plan on doing some practice runs on stuff I don't care about. Blister packs were exactly what I figured I'd start with @Corporea!

Seriously, thanks everyone! I have a lot of youtubing to do! 

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Second question... 

I'm looking for a kneeling male miniature. I'd prefer him to not have hands full of weapons, but if they're easy to remove, not a deal breaker. 

I've seen several from reaper, red box, and darksword, but nothing is quite what I want... 

Any leads are appreciated! 

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Consider using a standing figure as well. You can notch out the back of the knees easily and reglue.

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20 minutes ago, Corsair said:

Consider using a standing figure as well. You can notch out the back of the knees easily and reglue.

I wondered if that would be feasible! 

I didn't even consider notching! 

Yes! 

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26 minutes ago, Marineal said:

Second question... 

I'm looking for a kneeling male miniature. I'd prefer him to not have hands full of weapons, but if they're easy to remove, not a deal breaker. 

I've seen several from reaper, red box, and darksword, but nothing is quite what I want... 

Any leads are appreciated! 

 

Armored or unarmored?

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58 minutes ago, ManvsMini said:

 

Armored or unarmored?

Not being picky at this point. 

Would prefer it's not like platemail, but I'll take what I can get with what seems to be slim pickings. (I admit I'm being picky in my premise. Lol) 

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2 hours ago, Marineal said:

Not being picky at this point. 

Would prefer it's not like platemail, but I'll take what I can get with what seems to be slim pickings. (I admit I'm being picky in my premise. Lol) 

Crooked Dice has a kneeling sacrifice mini...

 

There's a fun Luke's APS Terrain Tutor video on youtube where he gets tips from a resin artist, to do a terrain board. There's a big pour. It has some fun info

I've never used resin for anything, so have no practical experience. This is interesting, but may not apply to what you're doing.

Edited by lexomatic
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