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SisterMaryNapalm

Let's paint ... errr ... finish ... Zetta

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Some time ago I bought this figure in a sale at German shop battlefield berlin. I never really intended to paint this figure. It was ... to buy something that was cheap.

 

But recently I had so much pain assembling and painting vehicles and miniatures that I just started working on this one as some kind of desperation. I mean ... I cannot ruin something that I never intended to do.

 

To my own surprise this one came out quite well. As of now it's - I think - the best one of my figures since ... almost 2 years now.

 

To be honest - I have no idea what I did there and I think I couldn't recreate it on another figure. But that's okay. I am satisfied with it. Now it's just the boots and the sword and the belt left.

 

So ... let's get to my second nemesis right after paint skin tones: NMM. I have no idea how to do that. Any advice on good video tutorials which I can have a look at? And I mean tutorials, not "This is the beginning .... and this how it looks when it's finished."

 

Anyway - that's the figure so far:

 

jykm-385-e904.jpg

 

jykm-386-3bcc.jpg

 

jykm-387-ce95.jpg

 

jykm-388-5d91.jpg

 

jykm-389-5c0f.jpg

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I think you are right. She is one THE BEST miniatures I have seen you paint thus far. Don't worry about recreating the technique; re, you went with your nature, so it will just happen again next time. 

VERY WELL DONE, Dom! I knew you had it in you.

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I haven't managed to pull off NMM sucessfully yet, but I liked kuro's tutorial.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7sgJDk6owf0

 

Also there was a thread on here a while ago, where a bunch of people replied to someone who was completely frustrated and had given up, and there was a heap of good advice in it (one of the reasons I love this forum, I really hope the original poster had another try, but if not, there was plenty of stuff there that helped me). I'll see if I can find it.

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13 minutes ago, malefactus said:

I think you are right. She is one THE BEST miniatures I have seen you paint thus far. Don't worry about recreating the technique; re, you went with your nature, so it will just happen again next time. 

VERY WELL DONE, Dom! I knew you had it in you.

 

Thanks for the props, Al. Yeah - well - I did a better job on the Infinity miniatures, but that doesn't count here. That was like 5 years ago and a lot has happened since then.

 

For me it's important to know I still can do it and didn't lose it over all those "hints" and "tips" that were more distracting than helpful. We will see. Maybe next time I get the highlights right :-D Still don't understand it. But we will see ... for now ... need to finish this figure, put it away and just keep breathin'

 

image.png.16c4ae92e2b5bd361d28a92405e2d3da.png

 

 

1 minute ago, Sibling said:

I haven't managed to pull off NMM sucessfully yet, but I liked kuro's tutorial.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7sgJDk6owf0

 

Also there was a thread on here a while ago, where a bunch of people replied to someone who was completely frustrated and had given up, and there was a heap of good advice in it (one of the reasons I love this forum, I really hope the original poster had another try, but if not, there was plenty of stuff there that helped me). I'll see if I can find it.

 

Thanks for the assist

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I found the thread. Re-read it, and it turned out orginal poster had another go and it looked great :) Really happy about that, I always wondered how it turned out.

 

http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/80902-nmm-failure/

 

Also forgot to mention in my first response that the mini is great, really good work.

Edited by Sibling
update
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She's awesome!

 

I second Kuro Cleanbrush's video on NMM. Kujo Painting and Miniac also have good ones on the topic. 

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Okay, I battled through the recommended Tutorials as well as some more and ... well ... there's only one question I have got: WHAAAAAAAT?!"

 

I want to paint this sword, not get the meaning of life ... I watched several videos and got even more different views. None of them I can make into a mechanical way working for this sword. Yes. I understand the theory. Metal is a bad mirror, it reflects light, which means that you will have got  light, shadow, some other colors, which reflect different on squares, triangles, balls and cylinders, and THEN you have to take into consideration the age of the sword, the state of the weapon and how well it is maintained, polished, if there is rust or battle damage, if the sky is cloudy or sunny, if there is grass or other elements next to it that might reflect, if the surface is slightly curved or bent, if it is angled or straight upright position, if the user is male or female, height and weight of the user, which also applies to the viewer, if you look from left of the right side or the other way around, if the setting is scifi or fantasy, if there is some reality in it or it's completely made up, if the metal had eaten lunch or just had breakfast and now is hungry and therefore angry and so on and so forth ...

 

image.png.f3b2170aaa2352c42f517e5aa615ae08.png

 

And now I take a look at my mini. It's a mini. It's not a cylinder. It's not a ball and not a triangle. Its just a piece of lead. It's painted. Mostly at least. Which brings me to one conclusion: I have no clue how I can translate the theory to what I have got here ... I think I'll go to sleep now and have a look again tomorrow.

Edited by SisterMaryNapalm
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She looks great, love the hair and top.

 

Can’t be much help with the NMM, haven’t done much of it myself, mostly due to what you posted. I read and watched so much about it that it quickly became information overload. What ended up working for me was using a recommend recipe and trying to replicate someone else’s version or a mini with a similar object. Basically I would recommend just going for it. Don’t try to follow all the rules and just find what works for you. 

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2 minutes ago, SGHawkins09 said:

She looks great, love the hair and top.

 

Can’t be much help with the NMM, haven’t done much of it myself, mostly due to what you posted. I read and watched so much about it that it quickly became information overload. What ended up working for me was using a recommend recipe and trying to replicate someone else’s version or a mini with a similar object. Basically I would recommend just going for it. Don’t try to follow all the rules and just find what works for you. 

 

She's a female version of Jack Kahuna Laguna ;-D

 

Yeah, I thought the same ... I am not sure what will work for me, but that's something to worry about later. Then I'll browse through what other people did. I first thought I might go with the recipe of Angel Giraldez from Corvus Belli, but I soon found out that's just not doable for me yet. So we will see. I'll have another attempt later some when.

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The sword is a set of multiple flat planes. Don't worry about the setting yet, or the weathering. Just imagine a sword in a vacuum, with light striking it. Nothing else. Look at the comments on Kuro's video; he posted a picture in response to my question looking for more guidance. It gives a nice idea of the mechanical way of thinking about it. 

 

And when in doubt, go for "what looks cool". In NMM, I think that tends to be having the region that is bright for a surface next to a dark surface. I'm not a master at it, but looking cool is a major feature, and contrast is what does a lot of that. 

 

Bright_________Dark

-----------------------------------

Dark__________Bright

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2 hours ago, Cyradis said:

The sword is a set of multiple flat planes.

Following up on this, it looks like each face of the sword consists of three flat planes: the left bevel, the flat center part, and the right bevel.

 

I can't tell how far down that center part goes.  I'm going to assume it goes down all the way.

 

 

I'm going to try to provide a quick and dirty guide.  I hope it helps.  I'm going to reference my painting of 77158: Arrius, Skeletal Warrior for this.  I'll put the pictures in spoiler tags so I don't clutter up your thread.

 

I will assume you're familiar with blending.  This is the core technique of NMM.

 

First, you have to decide two things:

  • Where the brightest highlights on the bevels go.  Since the sword is vertical, they could probably go anywhere.  I would probably put them near the ground.
  • What paint colors to use.  First, pick three colors: An almost white (e.g. Reaper MSP Linen White), an almost black (e.g. Reaper MSP Brown), and the midtone for the sword (e.g. Reaper MSP Stone Grey).  Now pick a paint color whose value (i.e. how dark or light it is) is between your midtone and your almost white.  The hue doesn't matter as much as its value.  (I would pick a paint that is similar in hue to the ground on the base.)  And pick a color whose value is between your midtone and your almost black.  (Why not a pure white color, e.g. Reaper MSP Pure White?  We'll need that later.)
    • Spoiler

      Arrius's sword was done using Reaper MSP 09136 Walnut Brown, 09423 Styx Purple, 09086 Stone Grey, 09057 Ashen Blue, and 09061 Linen White.

       

      1406960503_2018122477158FrontHalf.thumb.jpg.247481ab4e47fee9787ee1969a6af6b2.jpg

       

Now that you know that:

  • Paint the sword's blade using your midtone color.
  • Paint a line of your almost white on the bevels where you decided your brightest highlights would go.  (Don't worry.  You'll paint over most of this.)  The line should be painted horizontally.
  • On the opposite side of the bevels from your brightest highlights, paint a thick line of your almost black.  If you put your highlights near the ground, this would go at the top of the blade below the hilt.
  • In the center part of the sword, paint a band of your almost black next to the almost white on the bevels and paint a band of your almost white next to the almost black on the bevels.  The center part of the sword gets opposite highlighting from the bevels.
  • At this point, the sword probably looks like crap.  That's fine.  It's going to look like crap for most of this process and that's okay.
    • Spoiler

      You can see the bands better on Arrius's shield than his sword.  On the shield, the highlights are just over the middle and the darkest shadows are at the bottom.  On his sword, the highlight on the bevels is near the tip and the shadow on the flat of his blade is adjacent to the bevels' highlight.  You can't see the opposite side (where the flat's highlights are) very well.

       

      1476677941_2018092777158BackHalf.thumb.jpg.4ca68e7f00933e00140cd5da47a0971d.jpg

       

    • I can't overemphasize this.  Until you're done, the sword is going to look like crap, and that's perfectly okay.
  • Using the five colors you picked, paint a smooth gradient on each part of the blade, going from the almost black shadow to the almost white highlight.  This can be a lot of fussy blending.
    • It may still not look like metal at this point.  That's still okay.
  • Once you have a smooth gradient, paint the edges between the parts of the blade using a pure white color (e.g. Reaper MSP Pure White).  This would be the outside edges of the blade where the bevels meet and the edges of the channel that surround the center part of the sword, where the bevels and the flat meet.
    • Spoiler

      You can see the edge highlighting with Pure White here.  There's edge highlighting on the outside edge of the sword and where the bevels and the flat meet.

       

      1992330935_2018111877158FrontHalf.thumb.jpg.99ffdb1b79aedbcf1b4518db3d4ee3ec.jpg

    • Where you have sharp angles (e.g. where the bevels meet to form the sword edge), you can use sidebrushing to paint the edge and only the edge.  (Sidebrushing is painting with the side of the brush rather than the tip.)
    • Where you have shallow angles, you will have to paint the edge highlighting on using the tip.  This may need good brush control.  Keep another paintbrush nearby so you can quickly wet it and use it to erase stray marks.
  • And now it should look like metal.
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5 hours ago, Cyradis said:

The sword is a set of multiple flat planes. Don't worry about the setting yet, or the weathering. Just imagine a sword in a vacuum, with light striking it. Nothing else. Look at the comments on Kuro's video; he posted a picture in response to my question looking for more guidance. It gives a nice idea of the mechanical way of thinking about it. 

 

And when in doubt, go for "what looks cool". In NMM, I think that tends to be having the region that is bright for a surface next to a dark surface. I'm not a master at it, but looking cool is a major feature, and contrast is what does a lot of that. 

 

Bright_________Dark

-----------------------------------

Dark__________Bright

 

Thanks for the assist, @Cyradis. But that's exactly the problem I described earlier. I cannot imagine how that works at all. I simply don't get it. Yes, I understand the thing in theory, but I cannot make it into an actual mechanical thing.

 

Unfortunately, "looking" cool is not an option if you don't know how to make it look at all.

 

I keep working on it.

1 hour ago, Xiwo Xerase said:

Following up on this, it looks like each face of the sword consists of three flat planes: the left bevel, the flat center part, and the right bevel.

 

I can't tell how far down that center part goes.  I'm going to assume it goes down all the way.

 

 

I'm going to try to provide a quick and dirty guide.  I hope it helps.  I'm going to reference my painting of 77158: Arrius, Skeletal Warrior for this.  I'll put the pictures in spoiler tags so I don't clutter up your thread.

 

I will assume you're familiar with blending.  This is the core technique of NMM.

 

First, you have to decide two things:

  • Where the brightest highlights on the bevels go.  Since the sword is vertical, they could probably go anywhere.  I would probably put them near the ground.
  • What paint colors to use.  First, pick three colors: An almost white (e.g. Reaper MSP Linen White), an almost black (e.g. Reaper MSP Brown), and the midtone for the sword (e.g. Reaper MSP Stone Grey).  Now pick a paint color whose value (i.e. how dark or light it is) is between your midtone and your almost white.  The hue doesn't matter as much as its value.  (I would pick a paint that is similar in hue to the ground on the base.)  And pick a color whose value is between your midtone and your almost black.  (Why not a pure white color, e.g. Reaper MSP Pure White?  We'll need that later.)
    •   Reveal hidden contents

      Arrius's sword was done using Reaper MSP 09136 Walnut Brown, 09423 Styx Purple, 09086 Stone Grey, 09057 Ashen Blue, and 09061 Linen White.

       

      1406960503_2018122477158FrontHalf.thumb.jpg.247481ab4e47fee9787ee1969a6af6b2.jpg

       

Now that you know that:

  • Paint the sword's blade using your midtone color.
  • Paint a line of your almost white on the bevels where you decided your brightest highlights would go.  (Don't worry.  You'll paint over most of this.)  The line should be painted horizontally.
  • On the opposite side of the bevels from your brightest highlights, paint a thick line of your almost black.  If you put your highlights near the ground, this would go at the top of the blade below the hilt.
  • In the center part of the sword, paint a band of your almost black next to the almost white on the bevels and paint a band of your almost white next to the almost black on the bevels.  The center part of the sword gets opposite highlighting from the bevels.
  • At this point, the sword probably looks like crap.  That's fine.  It's going to look like crap for most of this process and that's okay.
    •   Hide contents

      You can see the bands better on Arrius's shield than his sword.  On the shield, the highlights are just over the middle and the darkest shadows are at the bottom.  On his sword, the highlight on the bevels is near the tip and the shadow on the flat of his blade is adjacent to the bevels' highlight.  You can't see the opposite side (where the flat's highlights are) very well.

       

      1476677941_2018092777158BackHalf.thumb.jpg.4ca68e7f00933e00140cd5da47a0971d.jpg

       

    • I can't overemphasize this.  Until you're done, the sword is going to look like crap, and that's perfectly okay.
  • Using the five colors you picked, paint a smooth gradient on each part of the blade, going from the almost black shadow to the almost white highlight.  This can be a lot of fussy blending.
    • It may still not look like metal at this point.  That's still okay.
  • Once you have a smooth gradient, paint the edges between the parts of the blade using a pure white color (e.g. Reaper MSP Pure White).  This would be the outside edges of the blade where the bevels meet and the edges of the channel that surround the center part of the sword, where the bevels and the flat meet.
    •   Reveal hidden contents

      You can see the edge highlighting with Pure White here.  There's edge highlighting on the outside edge of the sword and where the bevels and the flat meet.

       

      1992330935_2018111877158FrontHalf.thumb.jpg.99ffdb1b79aedbcf1b4518db3d4ee3ec.jpg

    • Where you have sharp angles (e.g. where the bevels meet to form the sword edge), you can use sidebrushing to paint the edge and only the edge.  (Sidebrushing is painting with the side of the brush rather than the tip.)
    • Where you have shallow angles, you will have to paint the edge highlighting on using the tip.  This may need good brush control.  Keep another paintbrush nearby so you can quickly wet it and use it to erase stray marks.
  • And now it should look like metal.

 

Thank you!

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I never tried NMM, I can't get my head around that either, so I'll stick to true metals.

 

All I can say is she looks good so far!

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After 8 hours of carefully ranting and cursing, this is where I am now:

 

jykm-38b-1a60.jpg

 

jykm-38a-706f.jpg

 

And currently I have got the feeling I am not getting any further. Since like one hour I am pushing the colours around (and once again I don't know what I am doing) and I don't know how to go on ... hm. This is getting a bit mind-hurting.

Edited by SisterMaryNapalm
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Okay.

 

Continued some stuff, did now some Gold and some more work on the sword - but now I am completely lost. I don't know how to go on. Currently I think if I do a blue glaze over it and then call it quits.

 

 

jykm-38f-3518.jpg

 

jykm-38d-b23f.jpg

 

jykm-38e-80c5.jpg

 

jykm-38c-b1a5.jpg

 

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    • By SisterMaryNapalm
      Well,
       
      after quite a lot of chaos, construction and unmotivated explosions, Zetta is finally finished. Check WIP ->here<-. She is my first finished figure in over two years, and I am happy she turned out the way she did. I am not so happy with her face. I messed it up in the end pretty badly, and I am disappointed - but it can't be helped. Therefore, I finished her before I could do a lot more damage.
       
      Thanks again to @Xiwo Xeraseand @Cyradisfor the help. That's the kind of help I was looking for. (oh, yes - and thanks to @Silvervane, who was once again made into a group of houses for the purpose of having an epic name for some backyard village - lol. Sorry :-D)
       
      Anyways - I handed her in for the current painting contest called "Bounty Hunter", at a German forum, which requires the maker to create a story and the figure. We will see how it turns out.
       
      For a complete presentation, I tried to translate the text into English. I hope I did it mostly correctly, as this was my first unassisted translation of a longer text since 2016 or so. You are absolutely free to correct me if you wish to, but I guess - except for this forum - no one else will read the English version.
       
      Thanks again and enjoy.
       
       

       

       

       

       

       

       
       
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