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Glitterwolf

Deus Vult! Militi Christi Bust by Glitterwolf

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4 minutes ago, vhaidra said:

I`m a bit busy today so just in short for the moment:

Before adding intresting shades in red, purple, green whatever it is necessary to learn layering in a normal, simple way. This means lighten up the basecolour for highlights and darken the basecolour for shadows. A glaze is a thin layer of transparent paints. There is one guy he calls Vince Venturella and he is an awesome teacher, his videos are far beyond boring and always full of most important information. YES I admit I`m a fan of him. He is great, check out some videos by him for understanding the basics of Glazing, Layering and such. 

 

Vince Venturella - Hobby Cheating 122 - How to Glaze

 

Vince Venturella - Hobby Cheating 107 - How to Achieve Smooth Blends

My own technique is a combination. I also paint like Vince Venturella shows, but I have got some own tricks too and I combine all with each other. I can explain all with time and bit by bit. But the most important question is: Are you willing to learn, are you willing to improve? And are you willing to spend more time with your paintjobs? Without this all advice is useless. 

Cheers,

Yvonne
 

 

Yes.

I do have limited painting time. But I like to improve on painting especially for the big stuff like busts.

One thing, just to make sure, I only use brushes.

I do not have nor will I ever use an airbrush.

Edited by Glitterwolf

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5 hours ago, Glitterwolf said:

@SisterMaryNapalm I understand, thanks for your help during my WIP's.

I do hope you will recover.

It sounds bad.

 

I really can think of more beautiful things in life.

 

But well -You know ... Deus Vult ... which I have to admit is getting old now. So, a new meme - the Japanese version: DESU VULT - I'll explain once I stopped laughing about it.

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13 hours ago, Glitterwolf said:

@vhaidra

 I have started painting busts a few years ago.

This is my 9th. And actually my 3th normal Human ( the others were Vampires/Beastmen and one is a bust that looks like my Dog an one dias de muertos lady with so much facepaint she's doesn't look like a normal human again.

 

About toning it down/ raising the highlights and deepening the shadows by using more midtone.

On my first Bust ( Kyra the Barbarian Queen, one of the links in my last PM) I did this by using the midtone and made a glaze out of that and glazed the area till it was to my satisfaction.

If I understand correctly I now would need to use thin paint of the midtone and paint that around the highlights and shadow areas I want to enhance?

 

I see I created chaos with my mistake to edit the wrong bust. The advice I gave you there was related to the wrong bust, this one who somebody else was painted. At your bust I almost see no highlights at all. We have to handle this different.

 

13 hours ago, Glitterwolf said:

My main problem is actually that I used different colours like red/purple/yellowish tones to give him those.

If I would use the "basic" skintone as a midtone wouldn't I then lose too much of those red/purple/yellows?

Should I mix a midtone with these first?

 

Let`s sort this first. I will answer your questions further below.

 

13 hours ago, Glitterwolf said:

Or would glazing a midtone work better then?

 

Wait a minute.

 

13 hours ago, Glitterwolf said:

I know how to make a glaze, watery thin and needing several layers, let each dry...

 

Yep. But not only. A glaze is similar to a wash, but it is not prepared (like the washes you can buy), but mixed by yourself by just thin down your pretty normal acrylic paints. A glaze can be one or two or three layers of diluted paints all over the detail or applied just partially like it is done in layering.  Apart from this a glaze can be put between two tones for to paint a smooth transition for the case that there is an interruption in the transition. So a glaze can be used in a lot of different ways.

 

13 hours ago, Glitterwolf said:

Any tips?

 

Yes. ::D:

 

But first I have got a couple of questions:

- What palette are you using for painting? Are you using wetpalette? Plastic palettes? Where do you put your paint on? 

- Do you add anything to your paints? Drying retarder? Flow Enhancer? Medium Mate?

- Do you add anything to the water with that you thin your paints?

 

Concerning your questions we have to start at the very basics for the beginning.

 

Before you can successfully work with different colours for blending you first have to master the most simple way of building up blendings and highlighting. This means you have to learn first to paint a simple transition. In the case of skin you need to build up a simple transition from shadow to higlights and all tones need to be similar to each other like I described already.

 

If this is mastered, then you can paint in nice extra shades with purple, red, yellow, grey whatever. So let`s deal for the moment with the basics only. One step after another, otherwise we create the complete chaos.

 

The basics in blending:

 

This are the ways how to get a blending:

1. Layering: One layer is put over the previous and by using transparent paints a nice, smooth transition can be built up.(thin paints)

2. Wet blending: Two colours are mixed with each other on the miniature. (thicker paints)

3. Building up a transition with thicker paints by using as many tones as possible: This is simply using thicker paints but for avoiding super hard interruptions it is necessary to paint by using as many tones as possible and smooth it out later with thinner paints. This is my way of painting. (thicker paints)

4. Two brush technique: Thin paint will be applied and with a damp, clean brush it will be feathered out also known as "feathering technique". Can be combined with layering which means one can paint many layers this way to improve the result. (thin paints)

5. Loaded brush technique: Well this is really cool. You dip your brush into thin paints for the shadow colour and then you dip the tip of the same brush into a much thicker highlighting colour. This technique is very hard to do at first and one has to practise, but then it is cool. (thicker and thin paints together)

 

Conclusion: Each consistency of paints is used in painting blendings.

 

Thin Paints: Helps to smooth out interruptions, but it takes much time to build up a transition with high contrast (depth).

Thick Paints: Helps to build up depth quickly, but it looks very rough.

 

Solution: Combine it.

 

First paint a rough transition with thicker paints and with as many tones as possible, after this make it smooth with thin colours also by using all tones which are necessary to get it smooth. The more tones you use the more easier it becomes to build up a nice, smooth transition. This rule (many similar tones) is important for both the painting with thicker and with thinner paints. Also layering with diluted paints works best with at least 7 tones.

 

This is just for giving you a couple of search words. Check out this techniques, they are all cool and good working. Wetblending, Two brush technique and Loaded brush technique are hard to do for beginners, but intresting for advanced painter.

 

In your case we have to start with layering and with my special way of painting with thicker paints.

 

What I do in the beginning is using really thick paints as you see on my palette, the consistency is like cream. Apart from that I use an ice palette. Not my invention. My boss had the idea (she loves miniatures too). I simply use a metal palette and put ice below it and this keeps my paints liquid for at least 2-3 hours.

 

This special palette I use has additional advantages. I can see exactly which tone is darker or lighter on my paiette and so I can pick up exactly the right tone which I need. This is good for beginners who are not very experianced in recognizing differences in lightness and colour when it comes to mixing paints.

 

But this also works fine with a wet palette. On the wet palette you can also mix a transition on your palette.

 

So a good start is first: Mixing the complete transition on your palette. Mix as long as needed for to get a good depth and good transition without any hard interruptions!!!!

 

Then simply apply it like this guy here does (he exactly paints as I do):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0oa-_tMbRBE&list=PLcf5SPc4Du5PLH2VS0wM2fNFVfCcHymTu&index=5&t=0s

 

I even take thicker paints as he does for my very first layer and apply them as quickly as possible so that I have a neat wet blending effect same time.

 

In the case of your bust, the first brushstrokes would look like this (I intentionally painted thick brushstrokes with opaque paints for you to see better how the transition is built up, you can take a bit thinner paints, but not too thin). I must be immediately to see what you do. Not like it is in layering. The first brushstroke you do must be good to see. Opacity should be 70%-80%.

 

Oh and don`t care about smoothness. Just paint a quick and rough sketch of the highlighting. If this is done we can go on. Let me know when it is done and please post an image then. Don`t worry about the look, it is normal that it looks horrible in the beginning. You just need to paint as clean that you are able to paint with at least 5 tones (more are better) in thin parallel lines following the shape of the detail. That`s the basic work and this has to be done first before we can go on.

 

Should look in the end similar to my example (I hope I selected the right image now :lol: )

 

Crusader edit new 1.jpg

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@vhaidra

 

But first I have got a couple of questions:

- What palette are you using for painting? Are you using wetpalette? Plastic palettes? Where do you put your paint on? 

- Do you add anything to your paints? Drying retarder? Flow Enhancer? Medium Mate?

- Do you add anything to the water with that you thin your paints?

 

I usually use plastic party plates as a pallette, when it is very hot or I need to save paint, I use a wet pallette.

I only use tap water, the Dutch water is pretty good.

Only when I create a glaze or wash I add water and one or two drops of Vallejo Glaze Medium.

 

So pretty basic.

I have W&N and Kolinksky brushes ranging from 000, 00, 0, 1, 2 and 3.

And older and flat brushes for terrain/drybrushing etc.

 

As soon as I find time I will try and then post the result.

 

WHICH paint did you use here?

 

I have all the Reaper Skin Triads ( Fair/Tan/Bronzed/Golden/Olive/Dusk/Dark Elf, Dark Sin, Moldy Skin, Vampiric Skin)

I have Scale 75 Basic Flesh, Arabic Shadow /Indian Shadow

I have ordered and will receive this upcoming week: Andrea Flesh Set.

 

 

Edited by Glitterwolf
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7 hours ago, Glitterwolf said:

@vhaidra

 

But first I have got a couple of questions:

- What palette are you using for painting? Are you using wetpalette? Plastic palettes? Where do you put your paint on? 

- Do you add anything to your paints? Drying retarder? Flow Enhancer? Medium Mate?

- Do you add anything to the water with that you thin your paints?

 

I usually use plastic party plates as a pallette, when it is very hot or I need to save paint, I use a wet pallette.

I only use tap water, the Dutch water is pretty good.

 

Aha. I would stop this putting paints on party plates. 1. Not good for the environment, 2. Paints dry much too fast. If you reach the next level in painting you will work on blendings for hours and it is necessary to keep your mixed paints wet at least for a while. Otherwise you have to mix your transition on the palette, again and again and again and this works not well for a smooth transition. Last but not least using a wet palette saves up paint!!!

 

7 hours ago, Glitterwolf said:

Only when I create a glaze or wash I add water and one or two drops of Vallejo Glaze Medium.

 

I use Vallejo Mate Medium and add it to all the paints no matter which consistency. But you use Reaper Paints and from my own experiance with Reaper Paints it seems that they contain already a lot of medium and so you can skip this tip.

 

7 hours ago, Glitterwolf said:

So pretty basic.

I have W&N and Kolinksky brushes ranging from 000, 00, 0, 1, 2 and 3.

And older and flat brushes for terrain/drybrushing etc.

 

Great!!! This will work all fine.

 

7 hours ago, Glitterwolf said:

As soon as I find time I will try and then post the result.

 

Cool.

 

One tip in addition: If you add this thicker paints as a first rough sketch for your highlighting please do it this way: Pick up some paint (it doesn`t matter if you start at highlights or shadow, because the paint is opaque) apply it and then fastly wipe your dirty brush over a paper towel (which should always be placed in front of you while painting) for cleaning it. Don`t dip it into water. Just wipe it quickly over paper towel, pick up the next tone, apply it, wipe your brush again over paper towel and so on. This way you will be very fast in applying the paint which is still wet!!! That`s the trick. The result will nevertheless look unclean and rough, but what happens is at least a bit weblending when you apply the paints that quickly. This helps to make the first layer not so extremely messy.

 

7 hours ago, Glitterwolf said:

WHICH paint did you use here?

I have all the Reaper Skin Triads ( Fair/Tan/Bronzed/Golden/Olive/Dusk/Dark Elf, Dark Sin, Moldy Skin, Vampiric Skin)

I have Scale 75 Basic Flesh, Arabic Shadow /Indian Shadow

I have ordered and will receive this upcoming week: Andrea Flesh Set.

 

I`m not sure if I understand your question "Which paint did you use here?" because "here" at the image of your crusader I didn`t use paints at all. I made it in a graphic software. Something like Photoshop. I load the photo and then I can edit it virual with virtual brushes and virtual paints, works great for painting examples. So the colours here are by Paintshop Pro :lol:

 

For my paintjobs I use Vallejo Model Color, Vallejo Game Color and the Flesh Set by Andrea. I can say absolutely nothing to all the Reaper Paints you have got there, because I don`t know how they look like. Simply select a basic skintone from them you like and darken it with very few darkbrown and maybe a bit red and/or orange. Lighten it up with white. In doubt take a triad that is what they are made for. 3 colours are enough for painting skin if you mix them.

 

You just have to care about a homogeneous transition from dark to bright. That`s all. Keep it simple. Don`t make a big thing out of it. Any skintone is cool as far as you like it. We just practise here. If this bust will have got a bit more depth than your other busts the goal is reached for the moment. Just start, if the skintone doesn`t look well: No problem, just paint it over ::D:

 

Good news: There is no mistake in painting which cannot be corrected. Apart from applying too much and too thick paint so that the details of the sculpt become blurry. Then only stripping off the paints helps, but to be honest this is also not a big accident. The sculpt stays intact. So nothing bad can happen. You can paint everything over for the case that it doesn`t turned out as you wished.

 

For the beginning: Not too thick paints. Try it on paper first. It should cover after the first brush stroke but it may not be as thick that you damage details of the sculpt with "paint mud". In doubt thin them a bit more and just add couple of layers more over each other. That`s the save way. Learning which consistency works best for a certain task is one of the hardest things in learning miniature painting. It will take a while until you will master this challenge completely. Okay let`s wait and see ::D:

 

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Thanks @vhaidra, I will as soon as I get to work on this bust again.

 

My paints I use:

About 30 % Reaper

About 30 % Vallejo

About 30% Scale 75 ( these are rather matt when finished and have the best True Metallic Colours)

 

The other 10% is Andrea, P3, GW and some Craft paints.

 

I have hundreds of paints...

Edited by Glitterwolf
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Right! :grr:

 

Had a little mishap and knocked the Crusader over, no big deal, only he got loose from his plinth.

SO spent the last 15 minutes cleaning, inserting a screw and then sawing the head of that screw off , then insert that end into the plinth.

Added a drop of superglue. When set I will make a little putty ring, It won't be visible unless you look under the bust.

 

A little paint came off from the cape.

Will redo that later.

No painting on this guy now, fist let the glue and all dry.

 

At least our veteran of the Crusades is standing firm on his plinth again!

 

 

DSCN0668.JPG

DSCN0671.JPG

DSCN0672.JPG

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Oh what a mishap ::(:

 

I've noticed the longer a miniature is standing at my desk, the higher the risk to fall from then. More then one project is therefore terminated. Because my motivation is also fallen from the desk with the miniature ::):

 

But good to see that you've all under control and can go back to painting :winkthumbs:

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18 minutes ago, Glitterwolf said:

Right! :grr:

 

Had a little mishap and knocked the Crusader over, no big deal, only he got loose from his plinth.

SO spent the last 15 minutes cleaning, inserting a screw and then sawing the head of that screw off , then insert that end into the plinth.

Added a drop of superglue. When set I will make a little putty ring, It won't be visible unless you look under the bust.

 

A little paint came off from the cape.

Will redo that later.

No painting on this guy now, fist let the glue and all dry.

 

At least our veteran of the Crusades is standing firm on his plinth again!

 

 

DSCN0668.JPG

DSCN0671.JPG

DSCN0672.JPG

 

How shocking!

 

image.png.1522f6718993b9f2a56f1c0fff21cedc.png

 

Yeah, I know that kind of mishap all too well. I had those problems regularly back in the days, especially with miniatures I just had finished. But well - as long as the damage is minimal, that's alright.

Edited by SisterMaryNapalm
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9 minutes ago, SisterMaryNapalm said:

 

How shocking!

 

image.png.1522f6718993b9f2a56f1c0fff21cedc.png

 

Yeah, I know that kind of mishap all too well. I had those problems regularly back in the days, especially with miniatures I just had finished. But well - as long as the damage is minimal, that's alright.

 

It will be alright in the end!

 

image.png.e541c320ad3330faa9e1bbe62e0d27a3.png

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Touched up the damaged areas.

Nothing spectacular yet.

 

 

 

DSCN0836.JPG

DSCN0837.JPG

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Nice progress Glitter wolf. I like how you take all advice given and seriously consider it. You continue to improve your painting skills. 

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5 hours ago, KruleBear said:

Nice progress Glitter wolf. I like how you take all advice given and seriously consider it. You continue to improve your painting skills. 

 

Thank you!

I try!

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