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Shiny anti-matte

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Hey guys long time no post!

 

Running into a problem with using Army Painter anti-shine varnish on my brand new bones 4 minis.

 

I am spraying inside in 20 Degrees celsius temperature with a humidity level around 40% or so.

 

I am spraying from about a foot away and not too heavily but everything I spray is coming out shiny after drying.

 

I bought a different can to try it and the results are the same so I know it's not that the can I had was old and settled or anything like that.

 

I've ordered Testors Dullcote to try and see if that gives me a flatter result but am wondering in the meantime what if anything you guys think could be the reason or issue why this is happening. 

 

I've compared my models to pictures of other models sprayed using the same spray and they don't seem to have the same shininess as mine end up having.

 

Lastly if the model is shiny now is using another varnish that is flatter going to be able to correct the shininess without hurting the mini in any way?

 

I've tried reading about this but there is just bits and pieces everywhere and everytime I've had an issue over the years you guys had the knowledge I needed.

 

Thanks!

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Please do not use Testor's spray on Bones. I have had disastrous results with their spray stuff on Bones. Their brush on acrylic stuff was fine.

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14 minutes ago, ograx said:

Lastly if the model is shiny now is using another varnish that is flatter going to be able to correct the shininess without hurting the mini in any way?

 

Yes. As long as the shiny varnish is fully cured, a matt varnish should kill the shine.

 

I would not recommend using a rattle-can varnish on Bones figures. Instead, I'd recommend using a brush-on or airbrushed matt coat. It seems that the solvent in many sprays interacts badly with Bones figures -- but only sometimes.

 

And yes, it's a bad idea to use Dullcote even over the top of a full-coverage paint or varnish coat.

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What do you recommend for a brush on matte sealer and will it flatten a shiny miniature just like a spray would?

 

I've had no problems so far spray priming bones miniatures or varnishing them with army painter brand sprays.

 

 

Edited by ograx
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A lot of folks have had success with the Army Painter line, so congrats to you. I have had lousy results using Testor's and even the Krylon made for plastics, which other folks have had positive results with. If it fails, try Simple Green or Pinesol to strip the Bones.

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55 minutes ago, ograx said:

What do you recommend for a brush on matte sealer and will it flatten a shiny miniature just like a spray would?

 

Army Painter Anti-Shine Matt Varnish, Reaper Brush-On Sealer, Vallejo Matte Varnish, Liquitex Matt Varnish, Golden Fluid Matte Medium. They work pretty much exactly the same way as spray varnish does.

 

55 minutes ago, ograx said:

I've had no problems so far spray priming bones miniatures or varnishing them with army painter brand sprays.

 

I can't speak specifically to the Army Painter brand sprays, but I can say that many people have reported intermittent problems with stickiness when using spray primers or varnishes on Bones figures. Sometimes these problems don't arise for weeks or months after using the spray.

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1 minute ago, Doug Sundseth said:

I can't speak specifically to the Army Painter brand sprays, but I can say that many people have reported intermittent problems with stickiness when using spray primers or varnishes on Bones figures. Sometimes these problems don't arise for weeks or months after using the spray.

 

I have some bones that have been primed with Army Painter black for going on close to 2 years now and no problems so far. I think I was recommended it though on these forums for the exact reason you are saying but I can't remember.

 

I will try those matte sealers instead then and see how they work!  

 

Which ones do you prefer for the most matte out of the bunch? 

 

I really want to not have the shininess on the current batch I am paiting as they are woodland colors and such and look not so great shiny.

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I've been using the Army Painter and Vallejo products because they're what end up in my traveling box. I've mostly been painting with Golden Fluid Acrylics, which have a gloss finish, and they've both been killing the shine nicely. This isn't to say that they're better than any of the others, just that they're convenient for me.

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6 hours ago, ograx said:

I am spraying inside in 20 Degrees celsius temperature with a humidity level around 40% or so.

6 hours ago, ograx said:

I am spraying from about a foot away and not too heavily but everything I spray is coming out shiny after drying.

 

Temperatur and humidity should not matter much if you prep your spray properly. It should be heated up (warm not hot), which does not matter when it's warm outside, and the spray must be well shaken. The distance should be choosen depending on the heat and temperature because if it's hot the spray may dry before it reaches the model.

 

What I suspect is that you did not shake the spray sufficiently, the matteness comes from material deposists in the spray, if the material is separated from the rest you essentially have a gloss spray.

You might also spray from too far away, iirc army painter recommends no more than 20cm.

 

6 hours ago, ograx said:

Lastly if the model is shiny now is using another varnish that is flatter going to be able to correct the shininess without hurting the mini in any way?

 

Yes every matte varnish should work (gloss over matte would also work should you ever want to do that).

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I switched to using Tamiya Fine Surface Primer in Light Gray and Testers Dullcote a few years back for all my minis, to combat the shine/gloss. I have use on all my minis, including metal/bones/bones black and it has always done great on keeping the shine down and stopped the stickiness. ...YMMV...

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How many minutes did you spend shaking it first? I just used a 2 year old can yesterday that worked fine on my D8 High Roller - only needed a few seconds on the vortex mixer followed by imitating a 'shake weight' for a minute or two.

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On 4/29/2019 at 9:04 AM, golldan said:

I switched to using Tamiya Fine Surface Primer in Light Gray and Testers Dullcote a few years back for all my minis, to combat the shine/gloss. I have use on all my minis, including metal/bones/bones black and it has always done great on keeping the shine down and stopped the stickiness. ...YMMV...

 

I'll second this.  Use both and never had a problem on any figure.  As well as Testers Glosscote as well.  I also will prime through the airbrush (something I've started doing more frequently) with the Badger primers.  I recently got a bottle of the AK Interactive varnishes to also try through the airbrush as I do larger pieces.

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