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Shiny anti-matte

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I agree with Doug on this one. 

 

I've had good luck with Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane Aerosol, 11.5 ounce, Satin. I found the recommendation on facebook - somewhere - and I've tried it a few times. It seems to be pretty clean. I really only use it for batch paints. Individual ones I hand prime with Reaper brush on. But I learned a long time ago that the photo's I take for Iron Bristle I take without sealant on it. Even matte has a small chance of distorting the coloring and/or lighting. It's happened so many times I just stop putting it on until after the photo's. 

 

And I don't recommend Vallejo Brush on.

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9 minutes ago, Doug Sundseth said:

 

Curious as to why. I've had pretty good luck with that.

 

Every bottle I bought yellowed and yellowed my miniatures. The first one was fine for a year then yellowed, the second one yellowed within a month so I went looking and even asked the shop owner when this was delivered and he said it was "new last week" and that yellowed a month later too. I figure I've got a rotten run of it and/or some factor I can't figure out or solve is causing this. But I don't like their paints either, they all cloud up after only a short time on the palette. I use a modified jigsaw to shake my paint so they are thoroughly mixed but VJ stuff still does it. I've never had that issue with Reaper stuff, even older paints. 

 

On the third try of VJ sealant I just decided that Reaper makes ones and there are other companies and I'll just go with them. Life's to short to keep trying. 

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17 minutes ago, Arc 724 said:

 

Every bottle I bought yellowed and yellowed my miniatures. The first one was fine for a year then yellowed, the second one yellowed within a month so I went looking and even asked the shop owner when this was delivered and he said it was "new last week" and that yellowed a month later too. I figure I've got a rotten run of it and/or some factor I can't figure out or solve is causing this. But I don't like their paints either, they all cloud up after only a short time on the palette. I use a modified jigsaw to shake my paint so they are thoroughly mixed but VJ stuff still does it. I've never had that issue with Reaper stuff, even older paints. 

 

On the third try of VJ sealant I just decided that Reaper makes ones and there are other companies and I'll just go with them. Life's to short to keep trying. 

 

Concerning. I went to look for more reports and it seems like some people are seeing the yellowing and others never have. I'll probably not buy more of the Vallejo after hearing that, but I seem to have been lucky so far.

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I just had Reaper Brush-on Sealer turn two figures pretty yellow - instantly on contact. Could have been reactivating an ink in an underlying layer (s75 wood ink), but I wasn't able to confirm that. The sealer straight over pure dried ink caused no reaction. Was a heck of a surprise for me; it had been behaving itself until then. The last figure I sealed did not have issues, but the two prior did. 

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22 hours ago, Cyradis said:

I just had Reaper Brush-on Sealer turn two figures pretty yellow - instantly on contact. Could have been reactivating an ink in an underlying layer (s75 wood ink), but I wasn't able to confirm that. The sealer straight over pure dried ink caused no reaction. Was a heck of a surprise for me; it had been behaving itself until then. The last figure I sealed did not have issues, but the two prior did. 

 

Question: How long after painting did you apply the Brush-on?

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52 minutes ago, Arc 724 said:

 

Question: How long after painting did you apply the Brush-on?

 

The layers that had yellow stuff in them were dry several days, if not more. The test on pure ink was an hour or so after the ink had dried - no reaction from that. The yellowing seemed to match areas that had not been hit with drybrushing, but it was hard to tell. I have more detail in my Skeletal Monsters WIP post. Happened to my skeletal chimera, and to my BB owlbear (although the owlbear looks fine yellower, it wasn't planned). 

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1 hour ago, Cyradis said:

 

The layers that had yellow stuff in them were dry several days, if not more. The test on pure ink was an hour or so after the ink had dried - no reaction from that. The yellowing seemed to match areas that had not been hit with drybrushing, but it was hard to tell. I have more detail in my Skeletal Monsters WIP post. Happened to my skeletal chimera, and to my BB owlbear (although the owlbear looks fine yellower, it wasn't planned). 

 

Interesting. I wonder if there is a method... Hmmmm To google i go!

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I will never tire of raccomend AK Ultra Matte varnish... it totally changed my life as it is so damn matt, and, best of all, do not turn yellow your mini!

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Just a follow up.

 

Testors Dullcote over top of the Army Painter anti-shine worked perfect.

 

Completely got rid of the shine I was not liking and not its a nice flat matte.

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