Jump to content


Recommended Posts

I think it's going to be useful at both ends of the painting spectrum. Painters on the low side are going to be able to use it to knock out minis to a tabletop standard more quickly, and pros are already finding interesting ways to take advantage of its properties.

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, Wren said:

That can be challenging and require more brush control than people slapping around washes to do quick painting might expect.

 

I would also imagine that color correction is a bit more challenging too, if this is essentially underpainting/grisaille. I have found that opaque paints tend to be a bit easier to fix instead of the inherently translucent layers of washes and inks.

 

Edit: Miniac (SDubs) confirmed what I suspected as well.

Edited by Al Capwn
Additional Info
  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Al Capwn said:

 

I would also imagine that color correction is a bit more challenging too, if this is essentially underpainting/grisaille. I have found that opaque paints tend to be a bit easier to fix instead of the inherently translucent layers of washes and inks.

Yeah, that's something I've seen from people using the paints. If you have overlap between two colors, you have to paint over it with the wraithbone or grey seer to fix it.

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep, that's what I meant about similar to watercolour - less forgiving of mistakes, and more difficult to repair. Also it's a mind shift to think of starting from the lightest point and going darker instead of darker up or working back and forth. Not that it's impossible or anything, but it's very different if you're used to standard acrylic/oil painting processes. 

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So, after looking into this some more, I noticed that quite a few of the models painted with certain Contrast paints seemed rather splotchy in their open areas like armor plates. Even in a picture from an GW event itself, where some sort of Space Marines (?) were painted in different colors, some paints look better to me than others. From reviews, some colors are also a lot more transparent than others, giving models painted with just one coat a pastel look with some more saturated areas in between.

One youtube reviewer actually had a friend who was relatively new to the hobby try out the paints according to the GW tutorial. That friend managed to paint his model, but also complained about not being able to pick out the details like he wanted to. Painting something with a very soaked brush and kinda runny paint while not messing up the undercoats of other areas is difficult.

 

Again, I find the whole thing rather interesting, especially when seeing more novice painters use the colors. But I don't see them as "revolution" or am planning to buy a bunch of them to sit my D&D players down and have them paint my Bones KS 4 minis. I will continue to try to get them to sit down and paint my KS 4, but with common acrylic paints.

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tried 'em out today. Wasn't hugely impressed with ork flesh. I'll give it a few more goes, but I may stick with my current recipe. I think it might still be useful as a glaze, but it was a bit too splotchy and uneven for my tastes, even over an ork's skin. Warp Lightning worked all right on a grot pretty well, though. Iyandan Yellow and Blood Angel Red worked fairly well. One coat, and I had a nice, relatively even yellow and red respectively. I'll probably use those even when I'm not speed-painting, just with some bloodstain red in the shadows and going up a bit in highlights. Granted, it's always easier over white, but I still tend to struggle to get my reds and yellows to paint evenly without starting at bloodstain red and working up, which is more work. Cygor Brown and Snakebite Leather both gave decent results. Not as good as a higher effort paint job, obviously, but still credible for tabletop. I've only used Skeleton Horde for teeth so far, but it looked pretty nice.

 

Took me about forty-five minutes to have an ork and a grot mostly done. I'll need to pick out some more details once I'm done, but I'm pretty pleased with the results. I'll probably be using them a lot as I work to bring my ork army to completion.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So there is a "Contrast Medium" or something like that.  Has anyone tried thinning regular paints with that?    Or maybe using the medium and some artist inks.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, lowlylowlycook said:

So there is a "Contrast Medium" or something like that.  Has anyone tried thinning regular paints with that?    Or maybe using the medium and some artist inks.

 

I was wondering about this also. If the contrast medium's properties are not altered by adding paint or ink, it would open up a much larger colour range to the artist & be more cost effective.

 

Also, it looks like GW has phased out their 4 "Glaze" colours, presumably the contrast paints replace them now?

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here you go!

 

zcW19iN.jpg

 

Entirely done with contrast paints. Not the greatest paintjobs, but for the amount of time it took, not bad either. The black-as-metal isn't very convincing, but I think a drybrush of gunmetal over it would work fairly well. Some minimal shading/highlighting would make these look fairly nice.

 

I don't think they entirely eliminate the need for other paints, even when doing basic tabletop jobs. But I definitely think they have potential to speed things up quite a bit.

  • Like 10

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A friend went on a bit of a spree and bought all the contrast paints.  I made a trip back home and picked up paints some surplus orcs I've had laying around.  We threw paint around just to see what happened.

 

Contrast.thumb.jpg.c6600013e08649299e6e898a97e6858e.jpg

The nurglings in the middle show off what I'd call a standard quick technique.  Put on a base coat (in this case I think the were pale olive, pale green and just the white primer) cover with the new "Gloss" Nuln Oil then finally apply the contrast paint liberally (nurgle flesh here).

 

Some quick and random  notes

  • The glossiness of the coat under the Contrast makes a big difference.
  • In general I think the mid tones worked best.  Dark colors didn't show as much contrast and light colors tended to seem like a wash.
  • I was surprised how much I liked the white and black contrast paints.
  • The paints labeled as human (or dwarf) flesh didn't look too great over white primer.  Maybe with the right undercoat they'd be better.
  • It's a pain to try and decide when the gloss wash was dry.
  • The Contrast Medium could be pretty useful but for good results  I think you have got to get the ratio spot on.

 

 

 @JackMann do you remember which color you used on the goblin's shirt?

 

  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've done two figures with it so far and like it for the most part.  I don't slap it on quite as heavily as I've seen a lot of people do online just to avoid having to wick excess away.  Overall I'm pretty happy with them for getting about 75-90% done in one or two coats and then finishing off with a bit of highlighting edges and some minor blending where the Contrast was splotchy.  I wouldn't use solely Contrast other than for the purpose of getting something to tabletop super quick, but it's definitely a tool in the toolbox for me going forward. 

 

One thing I did notice is that they aren't all created equal.  Some cover with much more saturation while others are closer to a wash.  Also, with almost no exceptions I found that you can't really tell what your are going to end up with just looking at the paint in the pot or while it is still wet.  You pretty much have to see it applied and dry to know what that particular one is going to end up looking like.  Thankfully there are quite a few examples out there on the net so you can pretty much find examples of all the colors applied if you have one you haven't personally tried.

 

I think it matters a lot what you're painting as well.  For display obviously you would do a lot more in addition to them, but for tabletop they are going to be pretty awesome. I might actually paint that Moria goblin army now.

  • Like 5
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sprayed a sacrificial Bones mini with the wrathbone. No issues so far, but we'll see if any crop up after I get it painted up and sealed.

 

Of course, I could just use the airbrush to put some vallejo or stylnylrez on it, but this is for Science!

  • Like 8
  • Thanks 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry for the double post, but here's the mini!

 

nv6zfSK.jpg

 

EDIT: I'll check it over the next few days for any tackiness, but no problems so far.

Edited by JackMann
  • Like 11
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Sharkbelly
      My next project is these Bloodreavers and Slaughterpriest for Warhammer Age of Sigmar and Warhammer Quest. Enjoy!
       

    • By Nightwing
      This old Games Workshop mini is from about 1986. I think I had gotten him in a pack of minis because I have several others from the same line. I think I bought the pack mainly for this guy. He was my favorite, and I painted him solid black with silver trim. 
       
      This time, I went with copper colored armor. A long time ago I wasn’t down with the big snake on his head so I chopped it off. I used paperclip and some contour putty to resculpt it here. The shield glued on to a round knob on his fist. Trying to figure out how to incorporate that unconcealable circle on the shield, I went with a simple eye motif. 
       
      Please let me know regarding the flaming sword. I made the flame with hot glue. I think flames are brightest/hottest at the base and fade to black smoke at the top. I’m not sure how well this paint job imitates Fire, so comments on how to improve would be greatly appreciated. 


    • By Kangaroorex
      Just a quick owlbear I did using the new citadel contrast paints.  Considering it only took about 30 minutes, I thought it came out pretty well.



    • By aku-chan
      Presenting Cypher, a character from Games Workshops Warhammer 40k range.
      My version is a mysterious and legendary Space Knight recognisable from the giant sword he carries but never uses, while he normally lives a hermit-like existence on the various, isolated outer worlds, he will occasionally pledge his services to a quest or expedition in exchange for transport off world. 
       
      Really surprised I got this one finished, he's been on my desk well past the point where I normally get fed up of looking at things, and he's not a mini I'm that interested in (I basically really like his sword scabbard).
      That he turned out okay too is just a bonus.
       
      As always, any comments or criticisms are warmly received.
  • Who's Online   11 Members, 0 Anonymous, 196 Guests (See full list)

×