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I picked up a few. I've been trying them out on a few types of models.

 

1. Ones i want done. Seriously, I just want them done.

2. Inexpensive models like Bones IV or some Wizkids. 

Almost all contrast. I touched up the hat with some white. The metallics are not contrast, nor are the eyes. I also threw a black wash over the 'dunes' wood on the base.

Image may contain: one or more people

 

Image may contain: one or more peopleAgain almost all contrast. I dotted the eyes (blind beggar) and dotted the tooth. I also lightened up the staff and bowl as the wyldwood is way dark.

A 3d Printed mini. The primer didn't go on him well to begin with so I just wanted him done. The first layer got sucked up by the bad primer so I threw another one on, which essentially destroyed any 'shading' effect. Image may contain: foodNo photo description available.Wiz Kid 'cleric'. Cap, gloves, cloth, hair, flesh are all contrast. Image may contain: 1 person

and here is cleric 2, from the other wizkids line. No photo description available. Same deal, almost all non-metallics are contrast. Image may contain: one or more people and food 

Another pirate I just wanted done. He was initially zenithal highlighted with primer. Makes a HUGE difference if there's too much dark color showing. Also noted that I didn't get his feet with primer (I had a similiar problem wit hthe wooden base on the dwarf earlier in the thread)

Image may contain: one or more people

 

The cleric I wound up using for now. Hair, flesh, gloves all contrast.

Image may contain: 1 person

 

I wouldn't use it over wide flat areas.

You can go from lighter to darker, but not the other way around.

 

If you need to touch up something, touch up the whole piece. For example on the orc, I should have done all of his boots when I touched him up.

 

You don't need the special primer but they do go over the bones material with no problem. I'm in Chicago and sprayed that beggar and others today and didn't even need to hair dry them. Others, including the 2 wiz kid priests, I didn't do anything with and that blotchy primer on them still took the contrast although I had to throw a little more on in certain spots where the coverage was bad. 

 

Another tool and for detailed models, it's going to work fantastic. It's also going to let people who don't want to do 4 coats go down to say 3 or 2. Instead of base, shade, layer, layer, possibly layer, it'll be base, layer and possibly layer. 

 

You can mix the contrast paints with one another. You can use water but it affects it differently than the medium, makes it run more.

 

James, whose reknown around here for using the liners, has been doing a ton of great videos on them. I highly recommend them

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Hmmm, has anyone tried them over the translucent Bones? I am thinking that a water elemental with green over the translucent blue might do for a algae stained water elemental.

 

The Auld Grump - coincidentally, I have a water elemental on my To Be Painted SoonTM desk... it's been there for a few months....

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3 hours ago, TheAuldGrump said:

Hmmm, has anyone tried them over the translucent Bones? I am thinking that a water elemental with green over the translucent blue might do for a algae stained water elemental.

 

The Auld Grump - coincidentally, I have a water elemental on my To Be Painted SoonTM desk... it's been there for a few months....

I suspect that they won't work untreated. But a quick layer of brush-on sealer should do as a "primer." Might be worth giving a go.

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14 hours ago, ced1106 said:

Mold lines are my main complaint about speed painting. I'm still waiting for a paint that gets rid of them. :lol:

Pure acetone.

 

Soak your Bones in a bucket of acetone and you won't be able to find any mold lines! (Or faces, fingers, maybe arms and legs....)

 

The Auld Grump

13 hours ago, JackMann said:

I suspect that they won't work untreated. But a quick layer of brush-on sealer should do as a "primer." Might be worth giving a go.

That's what I was thinking.

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I've run some tests with this.  The skeleton brown works well on bones skellies (primed w/ contrast primer).  I've had adhesion problems with the orc skin green on bones orcs (also primed w/ contrast primer) and the wood brown on a random 3d printed dryad.  On the orcs, the paint draws back from flat areas maybe a bit too well leaving some patches that need retouching.  The 3d dryad (also also primed) sort of worked inverted with the darkest parts being the highlights.  But then, weldbold started melting that model, so I'm writing that one off as a fluke.

 

I'm still experimenting, but right now I think it'll be useful for bulk painting of minis I don't want to spend much effort on.

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On 6/24/2019 at 2:29 PM, Rignes said:

I wonder how well Contrast  Paints would work over something primed Zenithal style?

 

Ask and ye shall receive.

Upper mini was painted with Reaper Dragon White, Wolf Grey, and Dragon Black.  Lower mini was painted Zenithal style with the same colors. 

 64739283_10106889387504182_2836163769669779456_n.thumb.jpg.ea53f3aa7a8163670128d9c6cc62d5b7.jpg65072513_10106889387838512_1347815073116061696_n.thumb.jpg.00c9aa2eaba9486cac3a9feba1adbe5b.jpg

 

If you would like my full thoughts on the contrast paints, open the spoiler:

 

Citadel Contrast Paints

TLDNR
Like many of the other GW “Technical” paints, the Contrast paints have their uses. While they are not universally useful like straight paint, they are worth having in an expanded toolbox.
Long Version
In the attached images I did two tests with the three Contrast paints I had available. Both miniatures are painted with Reaper Pure White, Wolf Grey, and Dragon Black. The upper miniature is painted with each color in separate section to see how each affects the Contrast paint on top of it. The lower miniature is painted Zenithal style, going all the way from black in the deepest shadows to white at the highest highlight.
Looks like undercoating is everything.
On the just flat base coats with white the Yellow does it’s job coming off as a bright sun yellow with good shadows. The Red is nice and bright and doesn’t suffer from the normal problems of painting white under red in which the red comes out pink. The Brown on white isn’t my favorite but I feel like another coat would bring it where I would want it to be. (Could also work as a dirty white.)
On the base coat with Wolf Grey, the yellow came out awful, but I think it is more the wrong kind of grey than a fault of the contrast paint. There are warm greys (have brown in them) and cool greys (have blue in them) I think the Wolf Grey has some subtle hints of blue in it so it made green with yellow. The Red game out well. Blues and greens are often used to shade red so I think it worked well to give the Red a deep rich effect. Again I’m not thrilled with the brown. I feel that it suffers from the same problem as the yellow. A warmer grey base might have helped but I feel that the brown is too intense to get a good result.
The black base coat came out as expected. These paints are designed to let the base coat be your highlight and even straight black has other colors for highlights. So yeah don’t use contrast paints on something painted solid back.
Using the Zenithal method to basically paint in greyscale before hand came out awesome IMHO. The three colors were applied per GW’s recommendation of one thick coat. If these were going to be finished pieces, I would do some touching up of the deepest shadows and brightest highlights but I would do that anyway if I was glazing with regular paint. The problems that were previously prevalent on the base grey aren’t noticeable. There are some tiny bubbles where the contrast paint was the thickest but I thing that was me trying to apply the paint too soon after the base coat. My preferred method would be to do all my base coat work, give it 24hrs to cure then apply contrast paints, give it another 24 hrs then touch up details.
Pros:
Great coverage. Vibrant colors. Cut out a majority of the shading work. Great for tabletop armies.
Cons:
Price point is high. Less paint per dollar than GWs other glazes/washes. Also not sure about surface area I doubt you can cover as much surface as you could with the same amount of Nulin Oil.
Has the same effect as a glaze but behaves like a wash. I feel like newer painters are going to learn some habits that will have to be overcome when they want to do more than what these paints can do.
Conclusion
Contrast paints will be making their way in to my toolbox. I won’t be using them on every mini but they are useful

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I¨m considering trying these.  

Any recommendation for 3 or 4 paints that would be a good start?

(I need to order some primer and stuff and thought I could pad the order out a little bit)

 

I already have some good dropper bottles to transfer them to...

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Some further experiments:

 

I think the contrast paints work pretty well on 10mm figures.  But it takes a bit of brush control and if you were going to paint armies this way, you'd want some brushes that are both cheap and good.  Or at least, these paints give me the impression that you shouldn't use them with your nice brushes.

 

10mm_Test_1.thumb.jpg.1464834edea51449495dd43f5b3ef314.jpg10mm_Test_2.thumb.jpg.05a6139b3b44e83e1d68c7a4150ef8a4.jpg

 

I've got way to many CAV models and was curious how these would go on them:

CAV_Test_1.thumb.jpg.472aced21ed602cb12cac60b892d4c14.jpg

 

The left most was prepped with Nuln Oil and the right two with Nuln Oil Gloss.  The outside pair were done with Space Wolf Grey.  I thought it was one of the weaker colors so I mixed it with the Ultramarine to do the left models legs.  Also I wouldn't say the SW grey over the gloss wash war really a success. 

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