Jump to content

Recommended Posts

On 7/7/2019 at 4:46 PM, Inarah said:


Ah.  If I have to paint them first then the product isn't really saving me any time.  I was hoping they'd work right on primer. 

They will work just fine over a white or light gray primer. The primers GW makes for them work fine over Bones without the tackiness a lot of other primers have. If you use an airbrush, Vallejo primer works just fine (though I've heard some people have had issues with Stylnylrez).

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

2 hours ago, Rignes said:


I bought the flesh triads and they seem to work well.  I really like the Tanned Skin triad.   I kind of wish the shadow was a little darker for the fair skin triad though.  I haven't tried the dark skin triad yet.


I recently picked up Reikland Fleshshade from Citadel (obviously) that I want to try out too.  Flesh and Eye vex me the most out of everything so far.


The tan skin Reaper triad is good paint, but the weakest skin triad by far due to lack of contrast between the bottles. Fair has this issue too, but slightly less imo. It is worth using the two triads together.


Maybe there is a contrast flesh tone to help too? *shrug*


  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Cyradis said:


The tan skin Reaper triad is good paint, but the weakest skin triad by far due to lack of contrast between the bottles. Fair has this issue too, but slightly less imo. It is worth using the two triads together.


Maybe there is a contrast flesh tone to help too? *shrug*



I read somewhere on these forums (it might have been you) that the Fair, Tanned, and Dark skinned triads work together.  As in you can  overlap into the other triads for deeper shadows or lighter highlights.  As in, if I am getting this right, if you are using the Tanned Triad (9043 - Tanned Shadow, 9044 - Tanned Skin, and 9045 - Tanned  Highlight) you can tip up into 9046 - Fair Shadow for a lighter highlight or down into 9042 - Dark Highlight for a deeper shadow.  I've not put this into practice yet to know how well it works but it makes sense.


It's kind of like the entire line of 9040 - 9048 are designed to work together where you can pick any one to be your mid-tone then move up/down  depending on how you want to highlight or shadow.


Regarding the Contrast Paints, everything I read says they are designed to work best Wraithbone and Grey Seer as base coats.  I've seen videos of people trying them on other similar colored primers and base colors but they didn't seem to work as well.  Again, not put this into practice since I'm not going to try them until the buzz dies down.



Link to post
Share on other sites

Apologies for derailing the topic a bit -


Yes, you can use the triads in conjunction with each other and other paints. But my point on the Tanned Skin triad is kinda... you only need one of the bottles, not all three. They're too similar. Nothing says you need to stick to a triad though. They're just good starting points. Some are better than others; the Golden Skin and Olive Skin triads are outstanding (for tabletop stuff, they have all you need). I usually start with a favorite paint from a triad and mix and match from there. I use Brick Red to shade pale skin and it is a dark purple. I use Golden Skin Highlight on the Olive Skin base. Absolutely no need to limit yourself.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Didn't mean to change the subject of the thread.   Sorry about that.


I know I said I was holding off but I will eventually give them a try.  To get back on the subject, Vince of Hobby Cheating recently released a long (1 hour 40 min) video on the various uses of Contrast Paints.  When I do get around to trying them I at least want to be informed.  Besides, by then all the painters who are actually good will have worked out all of the kinks and I can just ride on their coattails! :)


Here is a link to his video.  https://youtu.be/jla40wPw7_U


I haven't watched it all yet but so far it's been informative.  I found it interesting that you do not need to use the official primers.  I've watched other painters say you do but he gets good results without.

Edited by Rignes
Fixed spelling errors and typos
Link to post
Share on other sites

Goobertown's mixes sound a lot like something I've been using for a long time. For blending and washes I have a mix of flow improver, matte medium and water. I use varying proportions of my mixture to paint for different effects and make large amounts of brown and black washes for terrain based on this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IokSYHu58V8. I'll be checking out more Goobertown videos because I haven't heard of him before and liked that one. Looks like he's saved me some money trying out contrast paints because I was already doing the generic(and cheap) equivalent.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Have brought some of these to try. As people seem to be saying above, brilliant for certain models/textures. 


Here is a Bones 4 Hill Giant, and Garghuk, base coated entirely with contrast paints. Brushed on Vallejo desert sand airbrush primer. Skin is Fyreslayer flesh. Cloth is Snakebite leather. Clubs are Gor brown. Bone painted using Skeleton Horde. Then did a little bit of detail work when all that dried with Vallejo Ghost grey (teeth and fabric stitches mainly). Although I tried basilicanum grey for the metal I went over it with Scale 75 Black Metal. 


These were super quick to paint, overall, but you have to watch for bleeding of colours and immediately fix any mistakes. That was easier with large models with lots of defined lines and folds like these. 


My other speed painting method is to use coloured airbrush primers, then a wash, then block colours over that, then more washes. Over all I think that is about as quick as this but certain finishes (dark skin, tan leather) were so easy to do with these paints. 





  • Like 9
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Rickdraco
      As I mentioned in the thread on the Captain with Terminator Honours, here is the best painted Dreadnaught I have done, the trident symbol on the  front is the chapter insignia. Let me know what you think!

    • By Rickdraco
      I thought it would be cool to show off an older model I painted, this one is a vintage Space Marine Captain, painted in the colours of my own Chapter, the Sons of Poseidon.
      Comments and criticisms always wanted, let me know what you think! The model was painted using Army painter paints.

    • By Grumpy Gnome
      I finally finished some of my Ridgeback Miniatures Gundabad Orcs and Goblin Mercenaries as well as some GW Cave Trolls.
      More photos and details on my blog…
      Advice, suggestions and feedback welcome!


    • By Grumpy Gnome
      Awhile back I was inspired by a gamer on the internet who had converted some Goblins into Gnomes. So I decided to try something similar but with my own style. Unsurprisingly, after I did this I found several other folks online had had similar ideas as well. Including JFA of Hagglethorn Hollow fame.
      A bit of greenstuff and a change in the usual colors… presto! Gnomes instead of Goblins.
      In hindsight if I was doing this again I think I would use different arms, weapons and shields on the two melee models but otherwise I am pleased with how they came out. Of course they are rather big Gnomes.
      The next Gnomes I convert will be from Wargames Atlantic Halfling Militia….

    • By aku-chan
      Presenting Brutogg Corpse-Eater, my first finished adventurer from the game Cursed City by Games Workshop.
      Had a lot of fun painting this guy, I experimented by giving him grey-hued skin to represent his unhealthy eating habits (he eats zombies) and it worked better than I thought it would.
      Annoyingly though, I had to leave the bits under his coat unpainted (just couldn't get a brush up there), nobody will notice unless they turn him upside down, but it still bothers me that he's technically "Unfinished".
      As always, any comments or criticisms are warmly received.
  • Who's Online   16 Members, 1 Anonymous, 33 Guests (See full list)

  • Create New...