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Which Reaper Core Set to get?


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Good morning guys! 

 

Q: if buying one of the reaper core sets (108 bottle set), what's the main difference in them? 

 

I'm looking into buying a complete paint set. I've been doing a ton of research and have settled on a reaper core set (i already own several reaper paints and love them).  I know that everyone suggests a blend of several companies based on which has the best,  e.g. yellow,  or metallics. I just want to make it simple, buy a set and build from there. 

 

I'll mostly be painting 40k and privateer press models with some terrain and 3d prints mixed in (i have a cheapo set of acrylics from Michael's for large terrain and 3d prints).

 

I've also considered the Vallejo Model set, and Army Painter Mega Set.

 

Thanks in advance! 

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They have different color paints.  

 

Core Colors Set #1 (9951) and Core Colors Set #2 (9957) combine to become Core Colors Master Set (9956).

 

Core Colors Basics set 1 contains half of Core Colors Set #1. 

 

Master Series Paints Essentials Set contains parts of the Core Colors sets, and a bunch of newer colors. 

 

You can't go wrong with any of them. 

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The only miniature paints I've used are the Army Painter set, and to a very limited degree (I did a paint and take at a convention), Reaper. From that experience I would go with Army Painter any time. 

 

Since I have the same simple-start-and-build-from-there attitude, I still haven't expanded my collection beyond the Army Painter line. If something ever comes up that I can't get from them, I'd probably seek it from other lines before Reaper. Other than drow nipple pink, of course, I'd definitely buy a bottle of that.

 

That's my two cents, but paint preferences are wildly personal.

 

Also, WELCOME! These forums are one of the bestest places on the internets, and better now for having you.

Edited by Fnordlover
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23 minutes ago, Face_Rollan said:

So no major differences, like Vallejo game vs model color? 

 

Thanks again for the info and previous replies. 

 

There's a bit of difference between Bones/HD-branded (the HD brand has been cancelled, but it's still available some places and is basically the same as Bones) and MSP-branded paints. but within the MSP line, there isn't the kind of systematic difference there is between VMC and VGC.

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My personal vote would be for the Bones Colours full set, as it gives a decent variety with its 54 colours, has some nice metallics in there too... Then maybe add in the Bones Dungeon as well as Monsters sets...  And then add from there as desired. 

 

But I tend to prefer Bones over MSP, although just slightly. 

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1 hour ago, Doug Sundseth said:

 

There's a bit of difference between Bones/HD-branded (the HD brand has been cancelled, but it's still available some places and is basically the same as Bones) and MSP-branded paints. but within the MSP line, there isn't the kind of systematic difference there is between VMC and VGC.

Is the HD the one that's a hybrid gel medium? 

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1 hour ago, Face_Rollan said:

Is the HD the one that's a hybrid gel medium? 

 

I don't think it's a gel. I do think that it's a thicker acrylic medium, possibly with a higher pigment load. They feel different in use, but not all that much different.

 

Most people who use MSP regularly have no problem (and no real change to the way the paint is used), in alternating between MSP and Bones lines.

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On 6/29/2019 at 2:52 PM, Face_Rollan said:

I've also considered the Vallejo Model set, and Army Painter Mega Set.

 

Vallejo model colour is a useful line, but I would strongly recommend against Army Painter.  It's very cheaply made, and it shows.  I do not often declare paint lines to be junk, being that I can usually find something good to say about any of them, but Army Painter is the first line I've come across that I would absolutely write off as a waste of money.  It's a special kind of terrible, I can't understand how it's still on the market.  It's so low on my list that if I buy a paint set for a specific army or period that was compiled by a game manufacturer, and if the paint set comes with Army Painter mixed in among the VMC, the AP goes immediately into the trash so I don't accidentally use it.  I have a well-earned reputation as a paint hoarder, so if I'm throwing something away that's a pretty strong statement.  

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I have an earlier AP Megs set, that I'd give you for free, except that I'm not that cruel.

 

The white was way past chalky, and heading towards spackle... 

There's no agitator beads in the bottles, and because the bottles are slightly smaller than other brands, they're also much fuller, so they can be very difficult to shake up properly unless you have a vortex mixer.   

 

They have some washes in large cans for DIPPING minis, and also a large series of coloured spray primers, but that's all I'd recommend from them.  

 

For a beginner, I'd suggest either grabbing a Bones set, or the two Learn To Paint Kits, and adding to those as you need to. 

(The Bones Metallics are nice, but need a lot of shaking before use)

If you decide on a Non-Bones core set, I'd suggest that you still pick up the Dragon White. 

 

Vallejo have some good stuff. 

I use a lot of their primers, sealers, diluters and stuff. 

(Most importantly is that the primers and sealants comes in larger bottles. )

 

Scale75 have some really sweet metallics.  

(Comes in sets with  a shade, midtone, highlight and 'accent colours, with each set targeted towards a different type of metallic such as Copper, Gold, Steel))

 

And GreenStuffWorld has recently launched a set of coloured metallics, with Reds, Blues, Greens, instead of the traditional metallics. Probably good for armor...   (I haven't had time to play with the ones I bought, yet)  

 

 

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If you're asking the difference between Vallejo Game Color and Vallejo Model Color, that's easy.

 

Model Color is based on the colors used by militaries around the world, and is meant for display pieces. That means it might not stick so well.

 

Game Color is more akin to standard GW colors, and is meant to be a tougher paint for minis that are played with.

 

For gaming minis, I'd pick the VGC between the two of those. However, while I've been using Vallejo in the past, I prefer Reaper Master Series and have been switching over as I run out of Vallejo paint. Eventually, the only Vallejo color I'm likely to have is Smoke. It has issues, but I like it a lot.

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On 6/29/2019 at 11:22 AM, Face_Rollan said:

I'm looking into buying a complete paint set. I've been doing a ton of research and have settled on a reaper core set ...  I just want to make it simple, buy a set and build from there. 

 

I agree.  I'd go whole hog on Reaper MSP.  You already like the paint and leaning to work with one manufacturer's paints is a solid step forward in painting.  HST, I love Scale 75's colors and I've moved strongly into their paints ... having learned with Reaper.

 

On 6/29/2019 at 11:22 AM, Face_Rollan said:

I'll mostly be painting 40k and privateer press models with some terrain and 3d prints mixed in (i have a cheapo set of acrylics from Michael's for large terrain and 3d prints).

 

If these are you subjects and you're not doing competition minis ... again ... Reaper MSP.

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3 hours ago, Highlander said:

I agree.  I'd go whole hog on Reaper MSP.  You already like the paint and leaning to work with one manufacturer's paints is a solid step forward in painting.  HST, I love Scale 75's colors and I've moved strongly into their paints ... having learned with Reaper.

 

Highlander makes a good point here.  Reaper is a good, versatile "middle paint".  If I were to take Vallejo, Reaper, and Scale 75 it would shake out like this:

 

Vallejo:  Tends to flatten and blend layers together.  This makes it more forgiving because you don't have to finesse it, but also makes it more work to get good high contrast.  You have to put more layers to build up a highlight, and add more paint to change or lighten/darken it.  It's a good paint line, but having to work it hard to highlight means you get used to a more extreme ratio.  

 

Reaper:  Versatile, easy to use.  Reasonably forgiving, but takes less work to get to a high contrast.  If you go from Vallejo to Reaper you'll probably overcompensate and wind up with transitions too stark.  Reaper is well-behaved and pretty consistent, and can be used with gentle care so it'll let you do a lot and work on your skills and technique.  This makes it good as a starter paint that lets you grow into more advanced work.

 

Scale 75:  Great line, but can be finicky if you don't really know what you're doing.  This is a line that really needs gentle work to get the most out of.  I tend not to use it because my technique is too brutish to really get much out of it, but that's more my limitation than the paint's.

 

All of these lines are good, just different.  Reaper being in the middle means that if you learn how to make it work, the other two will be easier to figure out and use.  I sometimes see longtime Vallejo users try Reaper paint and not like it, and I think that's because they're not used to how quickly it can go from "just enough" to "too much" because with Vallejo you really almost have to brute force it into high contrast.  Using that method with Reaper (I tested this on a demo model) will result in a stark and streaky look.  This gets interpreted as "bad to layer with" but that's not true, you just have to be more gentle with it.  Going from Reaper to Vallejo is much easier because it's immediately apparant that you can be more rough with it and that's easy to compensate for.  Similarly, if you're used to thinning and carefully blending Reaper then it's not much of a leap to move onto Scale 75 and work with it.    

 

The sum of this is that while the Reaper line itself is very versatile, it's also versatile training if you decide to try other paint lines.  I use a lot of Vallejo because I like the convenience of the military colours being pre-mixed, and also because I don't need to be too careful with them if I want to belt out a mess of infantry.  For fantasy I would probably use mostly Reaper.  Scale 75 is useful for good contrast, vivid colours, and is worth learning its quirks to get a lot out of it.  

 

Other paint brands fall somewhere on these spectrums.  There are more good paint lines than bad ones, and more selection today than ever before, but how you want to use your paint is at least as important as what paint you want to use.  In trying to figure that out, Reaper is a great place to start because it's a good combination of useful traits and relatively few bad habits.  

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On 6/30/2019 at 4:01 PM, buglips*the*goblin said:

... I would strongly recommend against Army Painter.  It's very cheaply made, and it shows.  I do not often declare paint lines to be junk, being that I can usually find something good to say about any of them, but Army Painter is the first line I've come across that I would absolutely write off as a waste of money.  It's a special kind of terrible, I can't understand how it's still on the market.  It's so low on my list that if I buy a paint set for a specific army or period that was compiled by a game manufacturer, and if the paint set comes with Army Painter mixed in among the VMC, the AP goes immediately into the trash so I don't accidentally use it.  I have a well-earned reputation as a paint hoarder, so if I'm throwing something away that's a pretty strong statement.  

 

On the other hand, Army Painter inks are some of the better ones available. Transparent (not muddy like Reapers), and they don't leave 'tide marks' like some other popular brands.  I go through several bottles of Strong Tone (brown) a year, and Dark Tone (black) is useful too.  

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      From left to right: Liquitex Glazing Medium; Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium; Delta Ceramcoat All-Purpose Sealer.
       
      Damage levels are pretty similar to the better performers above. The Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium and Liquitex Glazing Medium performed the best of the seven products tested. (The Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium performed better in terms of acting as a primer, and is inexpensive, so would be my recommendation between those two.)
    • By Wren
      I put together a few documents related to using Bones. I've submitted these to the Craft section of the website, but as it may be a little while before Reaper has the time available to add them, Bryan suggested that I post them here.
       
      Bones - Frequently Asked Questions (this document)
      Bones - Preparation (mould line removal, glue, putty, etc.)
      Bones - The First Coat is the Difference (primer, primer alternatives, paint durability)
       
      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
       
      Bones Miniatures: Frequently Asked Questions
       
      What are Bones Miniatures?
       
      The Bones material is a polymer plastic. It is light-weight and slightly flexible, and is very durable. You can paint a Bones figure straight out of the package, and that paint job will also be pretty durable. Bones figures are as detailed as metal figures, for a much lower cost. Bones miniatures are produced with integral (built-in) bases, but it is easy to cut the miniature off of the base if you prefer to put it on something else. It is also easy to cut the figures apart to convert them into different poses or change weapons.
       
       
      What is the bare minimum I need to know to start painting my Bones right now!
       
      If you want background on why these are the recommendations or what other alternatives might also work, read the rest of this document, Painting Bones Miniatures: Preparation and Painting Bones Miniatures: The First Coat is the Difference.
       
      Remove Mould Lines
      Remove by slicing just under the mould lines with a hobby knife, in a similar motion to paring vegetable or hand-sharpening a pencil. Files work best if you file in one direction, then remove burrs by filing in the opposite direction.
       
      Reshape Bent Parts
      Dip the misshapen piece in boiling water for a minute or two, remove and move into desired position, then immediately hold in ice water for a few minutes. NOTE: Read additional information in this document for safety recommendations!
       
      What Glue to Use
      Superglue aka cyanoacrylate works best to glue Bones to itself or other materials.
       
      What Putty to Use
      All major brands of putty tested work with bones. (Green Stuff, Milliput, etc.)
       
      What Works as a Paint Stripper
      Soak figure in Simple Green Concentrated All Purpose Cleaner for 12 – 24 hours, then scrub it with an old toothbrush.
       
      Best Primer
      None. Start with a first coat of undiluted Reaper Master Series Paint, then paint as normal from there. This is the best choice for durability and a good painting surface. Other acrylic paints that work with miniatures should have similar results. Paint can be applied with a brush or airbrush (diluted paint seems to work with an airbrush.)
       
      Best Primer if You Want to Prime Anyway
      Reaper Master Series Brush-On Primer in black or white, or Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium (also brush-on.)
       
      Best Spray Primer
      Many aerosol primers will not cure completely on Bones. Reaper forum members have reported good results with the Army Painter sprays.
       
      How to Do a Wash Directly on Bones
      Thin your wash with one of the following mediums and just a small amount of water if necessary: Master Series Brush-On Sealer, Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium, Delta Ceramcoat All-Purpose Sealer.
       
       
      Can you really paint Bones miniatures straight out of the package?
       
      Absolutely! However, if you’ve ever painted metal, resin or plastic figures in the past, you may notice some differences in how the first coat of paint behaves. Paint diluted with water (even just a drop or two for a thinned base coat) may bead up and pull away from crevices. The more water you add to the paint, the more you’ll notice this effect, so water-thinned washes used directly on the Bones material don’t really work. That first coat of paint may also take a little longer to dry.
       
      Most people find that the paint applies a little better if you first wash the figure. Just scrub it with a little dish soap and a toothbrush and allow it to dry before you start to paint. Another alternative is to apply a primer or another surface preparation that works with the Bones material as the first coat.
       
      Once you get that first coat on, you can use highly thinned paint in subsequent layers and it should behave pretty much the same as on any other figure.
       
      For more information, methods to use thinned paint directly on the Bones surface, tips for quicker drying and a list of primers that do (or don’t) work with Bones, please see the Craft document Painting Bones Miniatures: The First Coat is the Difference.
       
       
      What kinds of paint work on Bones Miniatures?
       
      The Bones material is designed to work with Reaper’s Master Series and Master Series HD lines of paint. Internal testing and feedback from customers suggests that Bones also works well with the other major miniature paint lines, including Reaper’s discontinued Pro Paints, Vallejo Game Color, Vallejo Model Color, Privateer Press’ P3 Paints, and Games Workshop. Artists’ acrylic paint are also likely to work on Bones.
       
      However, please note that Reaper does not offer any guarantee or assurance that the Bones miniatures will work with any particular paint other than Master Series and Master Series HD. You are advised to test your preferred paint on a Bones figure to decide for yourself how well it works. If your paint does not work well on bare Bones, you can prepare the surface with a coat of Master Series paint and it will likely work over that.
       
       
      How do I remove the mould lines from a Bones figure?
       
      Like all miniatures, Bones figures have small mould lines as a result of the manufacturing process. You do not need to remove these to paint or use a Bones, but many people prefer to remove them for aesthetic reasons. You can remove these with the same tools you would use on a metal figure – hobby knife, files, and/or sandpaper. However, you may find that you need to use these materials in a slightly different way.
       
      Hobby knives work best if you slice under and along the mould line in a paring motion rather than scraping them along the mould line. With files and sandpaper, file in one direction perpendicular to the mould line. If you find you have burrs of material remaining, lightly file those off moving the tool in the opposite direction.
       
       
      How Durable is the Bones Material?
       
      Bones figures are remarkably durable, and not just in comparison to metal and resin figures. People have dropped Bones from a height of one storey, ground them underfoot, driven over them with a car, carried them loose in backpacks and pockets, and they’ve sustained no damage.
       
      The light weight of the material means drops and falls hit with much less mass behind them. The give of the material means it’s much better able to absorb impact, where a brittle material like resin will likely break.
       
      They’re not indestructible, but they can take an impressive amount of damage. We had several Bones figures out at the PAX Prime 2012 convention for people to examine and abuse. We bounced them off the floor, and invited dozens of people to step on them. One of the small kobolds with narrow diameter legs did break at one ankle on the third day. Another figure suffered a very small area of damage due to the friction generated by someone’s shoe grinding it across the floor.
       
       
      If Bones are so durable, is it hard to cut them up for conversions? What glue should I use?
       
      The Bones material cuts easily with a sharp hobby knife. Cuts have smooth edges and do not deform surrounding material as often happens with metal. So it is an easy matter to swap a head from one figure to another, or cut off an arm and reposition it slightly so you can customize individual figures within a unit. All it takes to glue them back together is regular superglue (cyanoacrylate). You can also use superglue to adhere Bones to metal or wood. Green Stuff and other two-part putties work well if you need to fill gaps or sculpt on additional details. Pinning is a good idea when attaching metal parts to a Bones miniature, as the added weight of the metal will otherwise make the join weaker. The plastic parts are quite stable when glued together, but pinning doesn’t hurt in plastic-to-plastic conversions, either.
       
       
      How durable is a painted Bones figure, though?
       
      Bones miniatures painted with Master Series and Master Series HD paint are surprisingly durable. You probably don’t want to grind one underfoot or drive over it with your car, but you’ll be amazed at what they can handle. Figures are unlikely to experience notable damage to the paint from regular handling, bumping against each other on the table, or getting knocked over, even when playing with the most ham-handed of players.
       
      My painted test figures survived being tossed unsecured in a plastic box with a bunch of unpainted Bones that was carried around two conventions (PAX Prime and Gen Con 2012). They were handled by hundreds of people and literally and repeatedly thrown onto tables from heights of several feet. They have some dings and chips, but the bulk of the paint jobs survived. The paint on these figures had not been coated with any sort of protective sealer.
       
      The durability of other brands of paint may vary. I have not done the same sort of extensive testing with other brands of paint. In my limited testing of how well other brands of paint apply to bare Bones, I did notice that Vallejo Model Color paints seemed to rub off the figure pretty easily. I did not notice that happening with the other brands I tested. (P3, Vallejo Game Color, Pro Paint, Adikolor.)
       
       
      Can you remove unwanted paint from a Bones figure?
       
      Sometimes painting a figure doesn’t go exactly as planned. If you would like to strip the paint from a Bones figure so you can start from scratch to paint it another way, just drop it into a dish of Simple Green Concentrated All Purpose Cleaner for 12 – 24 hours, then scrub it with an old toothbrush and it is ready to paint again. Some paint colours may leave a stain on the Bones material, but should not leave any texture or affect subsequent layers of paint. Simple Green in an eco-friendly cleaner sold in most hardware stores and some grocery stores. Brake fluid also works, though is a much more toxic material.
       
       
      Are Bones figures less detailed than their metal counterparts?
       
      Bones figures are bright white, which makes them hard to photograph. A number of people who have lacked confidence in the product quality based on the photographs in the online store have been pleasantly surprised by them once they can look at one in person. However, there are also a few people who feel the quality of the Bones is a little less than that of their metal counterparts. When available, Reaper’s online store includes photographs of painted versions of the figures that may give you a better idea, but looking at Bones yourself in person is really the only way to find out how you feel about them.
       
      I compared one of the smaller Bones, Dwarf Warrior 77011, against his counterpart, Fulumbar 14146, under magnification. The only real difference I noted between the two was that the texture of the chainmail loin cloth and the laces on the gloves were a tiny bit shallower on the Bones figure.
       
      You can see a comparison of a Bones and metal figure of the same sculpt painted identically in this thread on the Reaper forums:
      http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/47477-bathalian-bones-vs-metal-challenge/
       
       
      Do Bones have sharp edges on weapons?
       
      Weapons and the like on Bones figures are cast at pretty much the same thickness as similar parts on Reaper’s metal figures. However, since Bones is a flexible plastic material, you will never be able to shave or file down an edge or a point to the same sharpness that you can achieve with a metal figure.
       
       
      Are the photographs of Bones figures in the online store and catalogue the same figures as the ones for sale?
       
      The online Reaper store and catalogue photographs of Bones miniatures are taken of production run figures – the same figures that Reaper packages up to sell.
       
       
      Can I do anything about a bent spear or sword on a Bones figure?
       
      You may find that sometimes the thinner parts on Bones, like spears and swords, will look a little bent. Or the figure might be leaning back or forward too much on its ankles. If you want to straighten those out, hold the figure with tongs or in a colander, and dip it into boiling or near boiling water for at least a minute or two. Remove it from the water, reposition the part, and immediately dunk it into a bowl of ice water for at least a minute. It should hold in the new position. If you expose the figure to heat at a later time, it may revert to its original position. For this reason, if you want to wash the figure with soap and water prior to painting, you should use cool water or wash it before you heat it to reset a warped part.
       
      Important safety notes: Please exercise caution! The Bones material may get hot when dipped in boiling water, so you should use protective gear rather than touching it with your bare fingers. The Bones material might be damaged or damage your pot if placed in direct contact with the pot surface. If you are under the age of 18, please ask your parents for permission and have them read this section before boiling Bones figures.
       
       
      Are Bones made in China or the United States?
       
      All Bones figures made prior to March 2013 were produced in China. In March 2013, Reaper installed the machine necessary to produce Bones in its factory in Texas, and began the process of transferring production in-house.
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