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Yay, finished in time to enter 2013 Dragon challenge with 6 hours to spare....
He is 2 lbs 2.5 ounces of lead, so pretty straining on the wrists. The WIP is here : https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/52564-teronus-grenadier-dragon-wip/
I will likely put him on a display base later.
With a dwarf snack for size:
******EDIT : Jump to Show-Off thread
Everyone, meet Viridius.
He's a hefty boi. No Ma'al or Kalladrax, but still pretty big. He doesn't even fit in my light box, as you can see.
I've thought a long time about how I was going to paint him up, I don't think I'm going to go with the standard green dragon look. Instead I'm going to take my inspiration from the time of year, and make him an autumn forest dragon, whose coloration changes with the forest around him. So I'll be doing him in mostly golden yellows to oranges and reds, but keeping some greenish tones as the base of scales and other places, to kind of give a reminder of the verdent glory he was before.
One thing I'm choosing to see as an opportunity is that the tops of his wings are very smooth, ideal for some freehand work. The question is, what to do? Some kind of leaf like pattern, or perhaps a butterfly like eye pattern (in the leaf colors, of course)
Out of the box bag he was in pretty good shape. The usual mold line cleanup, though he has some gaps that will need to be filled. I followed up with reshaping the wings a little with some boiling water. I forgot to get a complete before picture, but below you can see the before and after for the right wing
I've had to fully assemble him, I don't like the way the wing joins look without greenstuff, so that's going to be the first order of business. So painting around the wings might be a chore, but it's nothing I haven't dealt with before (Although, not in recent history)
I begain the gapfill on the right side, but after sticking a finger in greenstuff twice and having to flip him back to touch up the texture, I decided to call it a night and do the left side gaps later.
I'm painting again after a looong absence.
The colour scheme was inspired by Australian Frilled-neck Lizards and Thorny Devils. Base was extended with an MDF circle, cork, stones, and green stuff. I used my airbrush to prime it all and lay down the base colours, then lots of hand-painting, washing and drybrushing.
Hi everyone, I recently had the pleasure of realizing that I inadvertently bought the same Gnoll model twice. So, I decided to convert two of them to create a little variety in my hunting party. Read the text under each picture to have more detail. This post was purposely written as a guide for any who would like to try their hands at converting Reaper Bones model or any other models.
I used two 77236 Bloodmane the Gnoll Warrior sculpted by Tre Manor, 77235 Toghra the Gnoll Leader sculpted by Jason Wiebe and 14056 Weapon Pack 1 sculpted by Tim Kaufman.
I first separated the dagger handle from the body. Just a simple notch did the trick.
I then cut the trunk along the belt.
Again, on the other side of the model, I cut the body following the belt as a guide.
I have this hollow feeling in my stomach...
Same thing for Toghra, cut the body along the belt line.
I drilled a hole in Toghra’s lower section and cut a small nail to pin the two parts together.
I drilled a hole in Bloodmane’s upper body section and tested the pin in.
I glued the pin in the leg part. I’m using Gorilla Super Glue.
I then removed the handaxe cutting the handle just above the fist. I keep it for later use.
The tricky part is to drill a hole in straight line through the fist. I had to use a small drill bit, smaller than the new weapon handle not to tear the plastic.
I used a slightly bigger drill bit to get the hole a little larger.
After cleaning the mold line on the new weapon, I cut the handle in halves in order to keep the pommel intact.
I had to use a file to reduce the diameter of the handle.
Also, I removed two spikes from the shield to alter its aspect from the one the other Gnoll Worrior is wearing.
Finally, I’m using a piece of wooden stick to adjust the posture of the model on its base.
I often use this simple trick to level my models. I use super glue to fix the parts together.
I’m using 40mm round base for the Gnoll. These models are large and even if there in game space size is 25mm, I personally prefer larger base to have more room for decoration.
That’s it, I’ll need to fill the gap above the belt and along the shoulder.
I’ll also be using Greenstuff to fill the gap and complete the base before cleaning everything with soft soap and water prior to painting.
I added some notches on the cutting edge of the original Gnoll’s plastic axe. I’ll be using it as a battlefield wreck weapon to decorate the base.
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