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    • By Metalchaos
      Good day everyone, I've been working on a diorama display for some time now and I thought some of you may like the see my progress. I used AutoCad for my sketches and Inventor to build the 3D model. Then I used Blender to texture the model and Slicer to generate de code for my Prusa printer. The following pictures are the steps I went through so far. It’s my first big project. It's taking long but it's a learning experience. Let me know what you think about it so far.
       
      The first image is a screenshot of the final model in Inventor.

       
      Some sketches in AutoCad software.

       
      Floor part in Invetor software.

       
      Generating the code of the floor in Prusa Slicer software.

       
      I got a printing error while printing the floor. The plastic filament and I had to stop the print.

       
      On the next picture, we can see how the parts are on the inside. There is some supports but most of the part is empty to save on printing time and material.

       
      I decided to print the remining floor tiles individually to salvage what I had already been printing. I then glued each tile on the base.

       
      I had another printing error on the column, and I had the print another one.

       
      The column was printed at the highest level of quality my Prusa i3 MK3S can print, which is at a 0.05mm of precision.

       
      The arch was also printed at 0.05mm.
       
      The level of detail is amazing. Even the ring was printed flawlessly without support.

       
      Here’s a screenshot of the wall assembly after I completed texturing it in Blender.

       
      Here’s a screenshot of the wall assembly in Slicer. I generated the code with supports to make sure the door arch would be print perfectly.

       
      It looks perfect like this, so I didn’t see a problem coming.

       
      Some parts of mu model were not right, there were some gaps. The software filled these gaps with support material, so when I see the issue, I decided not to stop the printing session. The support material is showing in drak green the the simulation.

       
      After, when I generated the code without support, I could clearly see the gaps. I think this happened because there were errors, holes I didn’t correct or masking I didn’t remove, on the model I imported from Blender. I will need to investigate farther.

       
      See the result after I removed all the support. Removing the support takes forever by the way. I’ll try to avoid supports if possible, in the future.

       
      Here’s a picture of the wall. It took 40 hours to print only and probably another 40 hours to build, texture and clean the model. I still need to fill the gaps the Greenstuff.

       
      Here are all the parts I printed for this project.

       
      And, all the parts together. I haven’t glue anything yet. There is still some sanding and cleaning to do. I will paint each part separately.

       
      I patched the gaps with liquid Green Stuff.

       
      Closeup of the first layer of liquid Green Stuff.

       
      I converted a 02712 Eye Best from Reaper Miniatures. This is the pewter version of model that was sculpted by Julie Guthrie. I added eye stalks from the 03440 Creature Components II, also from Reaper.

       

       

       
      The Eye Best will be pinned on the wall and the door. All the adventurers I'll be displaying on the diorama are from Reaper Miniatures Dungeon Dwellers brand. From left to right; 07012 Caerindra Thistlemoor, 07004 Stitch Thimbletoe, 07002 Baran Blacktree and 07008 Luwin Phost.

       

       
      The models can be moved from a recess to another to allow different layouts.

       

       
      More to come soon!
       
    • By Crowley
      After converting Ingrid to better match the character she's going to represent (giving her a bow and rapier), last night I got to painting.

      I started with thinned down brown liner, then went straight to the eyes with Linen White. Surf Aqua was used for her irises, and brown liner for the pupil. I painted her flesh with a 2:1 Warrior Flesh: Linen White mix. Her hair is Blond Shadow with highlights of Tanned Leather. Her lower lip is a 1:1 blend of her flesh tone with Old West Rose.

      The armor, gloves, boots were painted with a thinned Rich Leather. The bow and scabbard are painted with a mix of Brown Liner and Rich Leather. Her cloak was painted with Mountain Stone, and then washed with a 1:2:2 mix of Grey Liner: Mountain Stone: Flow Improver.


      Because I want to bring her to game on Wednesday, and don’t think I’ll get any more time to work on her between now and then, I picked out the end of the scabbard and the tips of the bow with Dragon Bronze, and gave the base a quick wet brush of Redstone Shadow.

       
      Not bad for a night's work...
    • By Sulka
      Hey there, I'm very new to sculpting, and i was hoping for some advice in removing the "seams" that show up when you add a new blob of greenstuff onto your model, I've been using Vaseline, and a small slightly rounded steel dental tool for the bulk of my sculpt, i can get most of the height difference to go away, but the seam is still visible, I'm mostly trying to blend it into other soft green stuff underneath it, i don't have too much trouble blending a soft layer into a cured layer,  any advice, tips or techniques 
       
      Also, I appreciate all the great tips I've already found on the forum, its saved me from having to do a lot of trial and error on my own
    • By ChristopherGeorge
      Hi Guys!

      Another quick update! I've just finished adding hair onto Deva. I love this sculpt, the only thing that i didn't like was that she was bald. I wanted more of a Valkyrie descending from heaven look for the model as i'm going to need it for an upcoming campaign. So, out comes the greenstuff. I'd previously experimented with adding beards to models and i figured that hair couldn't be much different could it? Turns out it's really different. Hair flows in different ways to beards, particularly if you're wanting long flowing locks of the stuff.

      Still, i'm very happy with how it came out even if it took me most of an afternoon just to do add strands into the hair locks.

      As far as colouring goes, nothing to controversial, while dress, silver armour. I added alot of blue highlights to the base of the dress, trying to go for an ethereal summoning vibe.The wings caused me a little grief as i was going for more of a pigeon white colour, until i realised that was really understated, so I added a touch of gold and silver and that really brought out the highlights. I thought the effect was so good, i gave it another coat. In hindsight the second coat of silver may have been a mistake, but still. Live and learn.

      Anyway guys, As always comments/critiques are appreciated, but please be gentle i've only just picked up painting again and i'm still trying to learn the ropes :)

      Have fun,
       
      Christopher George



    • By Gargs
      Quick question regarding Bones and Greenstuff.  I have a couple of Bones minis I'm going to be painting up here shortly that desperately need some gap filling done on them.  I know that Bones minis generally do not need to be primed (other than maybe a thin layer of liner) but how does the GS used to fill gaps interact?  Do I still need to hit it with some primer?  
       
      On a related question, have any of you used the liquid green stuff?  I'm assuming that it is also potentially pretty hard on brushes, much like brush on primer, but was curious as to what your experiences were.  Some of the areas I want to fill are actually fairly small gaps, so the liquid GS seems like it would be a good match.
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