Darcstaar vs. Kobolds

[Darcstaar]

Thanks for the support.

 

 

1:1 Grass Green:Dungeon Slime.

What it lacks in smoothness it makes up for with “pop.”  I may glaze it down a little with Grass Green.

[Darcstaar]

 

Horns/Claws

1:1 Nut Brown:Dirty Bone

 

Straight Dirty Bone.

[Darcstaar]

 

Splintered Bone.

 

Almost forgot his teeth.  Love wet palettes!  His teeth give him a lot of character.

[Glitterwolf]

Smug looking bugger!

[Darcstaar]

Agreed!

 

Here is some Shadowed Steel.  It’s my most well behaved Reaper Metallic, not sure why my other silvery metallics give me such fits, but it is the consistency being too thick or thin, but not taking thinning well at all.

 

 

He’s coming together.

 

Tarnished Brass for the earrings.

[Darcstaar]

Remembered the belt buckle.

 

Wash of 1:1:1 Water:Nuln Oil:Drakenhoff Nightshade over the Steel bits.

 

 

[Darcstaar]

 

So, you can see my dilemma.  When I try to highlight with True Silver, the result is streaky and chalky and not pleasing to my eye.

[Darcstaar]

 

So, I tried to fix it.  I went over the chalky streaky bits with a 1:1 mix of Shadowed Steel:True Silver.

 

I’m happy enough with the repair to move on.

 

Overall, this is what has kept me from embracing shaded metallics as a technique, and usually sticking to NMM which is much more time consuming.  But for these kobold mobs, I want to go faster, hence the true metallics.

[Darcstaar]

Carroburg Crimson on the gold.

Then Cursed Gold as a highlight.

[Darcstaar]

 

Agrax Earthshade on the wood and cloth.

Then Terran Khaki on the cloth.

 

Khaki Highlight.

Putting in an image that isn’t zoomed, for a more global perspective.

[Glitterwolf]

Looks wonderful, and such a tiny figure.

 

Have you tried the Scale 75 metallics?

They need a lot of shaking/stirring but they cover well and there are some great colours.

[Darcstaar]

Thanks, Wolf.

 

No, I haven’t tried those yet, but have heard good things.

[Xiwo Xerase]

Sorry I'm a bit late.

 

When you're using True Silver, are you thinning the paint?  If not, try thinning it a little with Wash Medium or Brush-On Sealer (or another medium).

[Darcstaar]

Thanks, Xiwo.  On this figure, no.  On other figures I think I’ve thinned with water to horrible results.  I don’t recall specifically if I have thinned with media, so I’ll try that.  For my brightest silvery metallics, it almost seems like there is a powdery opaque white pigment that is really mucking things up, and I’m not sure if diluting with a medium is going to fix it.  But I’ll try.  Thank you.

[Xiwo Xerase]

As I understand it, metallic paints consist of three components: Medium, pigment, and mica flakes (which are the actual metallic bits).

 

I'm not completely sure why thinning with water is a bad idea for metallic paints but I keep hearing this.  (I suspect it causes the mica flakes to settle out.)  Thinning with medium works around this since you're not significantly changing what the mica is suspended in.   (Note that I'm not completely sure Wash Medium is a better choice than Brush-On Sealer here, especially for the Reaper MSP metallics which have a larger mica flake size.  This seems to work fine for the Bones metallics, which use smaller flakes.)

 

Lighter metallics are likely to contain white pigments and may contain more mica.  White pigments tend to be coarser and can also settle out when too much water is added. (I believe this can lead to tide marks, where the pigment settles out around the edge of the brush stroke or pool of paint when you lift the brush.  As an aside, we could really use a glossary of "ways things can go wrong.")  Thinning with medium will also help with this.