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NyarlaBcn

Prime bones

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How do you prime your reaper bones? 

 

I usually work with Citadel chaos black spray primer, but with some I used Vallejo white spray primer (the zombie dragon) and after a day or two it felt sticky, as if the spray had reacted someway with the plastic. 

 

Now I have Ma'al drakar to deal with and with a miniature so expensive, there's no room for mistakes... 

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The brown and blue Reaper liners have worked fine for the bones I have used it on, the majority I have used Tamiya Lt Grey Fine Surface Primer, and it has always worked fine.

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Wow so much info! Thanks to all. 

My issue now is... in my local shop they don't have any kind of the recommended products, not on the thread, not the ones you recommended here. They don't have anything from reaper, actually. I will include it on my next order, but to start working on Ma'al I guess I will paint straight to bone since it seems its a good option. 

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Every brush on primer will work perfectly fine. Just stay away from rattle can. 

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I use the Vallejo Surface Primer (the kind that's made for an airbrush) and just brush it on. I let it cure for a day before going about my normal painting. Haven't had any problems with tackiness or with it peeling off. Hopefully that is easily found in your area.

 

Using a brush and brush-on primer probably isn't ideal for a model as large as Ma'al, but it's a safe path. Throughout the years, many forums members reported that Army Painter spray primers work well with Bones, but I have no experience with them. If you want to try that brand, try it on a smaller figure you don't care much about.

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Cool :) I've checked and they have Vallejo & AK brush primer. 

Out of curiosity; what do you people do with tackiness on Bones due to spray primer? I was... well, horrified, because I sprayed a bunch of monsters before even thinking it could be a bad idea, and most of them were fine (the primer coat had an unusual glossy look, but it wasn't sticky) except with a couple of them, including the zombie dragon and a Sphinx. These were sticky.

I was worried & not thinking clearly, so what I did... was paint the zombie dragon anyway on top of the sticky coat. And... well, it looks fine. Now. Should I worry for it peeling off later? 

Or for this also spray-primed monsters? If not tacky now, could they be on a future?

Edited by NyarlaBcn

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39 minutes ago, NyarlaBcn said:

 Now. Should I worry for it peeling off later? 

 

No, but will stay tacky, even the acrilics will become tacky.

 

41 minutes ago, NyarlaBcn said:

If not tacky now, could they be on a future?


Usually yes, in a couple of weeks.

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1 hour ago, Cicciopiu said:

 

No, but will stay tacky, even the acrilics will become tacky.

 


Usually yes, in a couple of weeks.

:wacko: What do you advise me to do with this ones, alcohol & try to brush the primer off, or I've basically destroyed the mini?

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I had a few minis that were coated in a bad batch of primer... Soaked them in pinesol, scrubbed them well, washed them well, and put non-dead primer on them.  Perfectly usable after cleaning in my case. 

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Since I don't see it mentioned yet, I'll through in a vote for Badger Stynelrez.  Either sprayed on with airbrush, or applied with normal brush.

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41 minutes ago, Clearman said:

I'll through in a vote for Badger Stynelrez

 

I've always wanted to try this, as what I read and hear about it is good. While I think it is a good option, I wonder if Nyarla will be able to get it in his location (Barcelona)? No clue on what Badger's availability is outside the US.

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11 minutes ago, ManvsMini said:

I wonder if Nyarla will be able to get it in his location (Barcelona)?

No, not in Spain. Even pinesol, purplepower etc. are not an option.
Best option is isopropyl alcohol.
 

@NyarlaBcn you may buy isopropyl alcohol at the drugstore  or at the pharmacy , I use 99,5% and it strip the paint in a minute. No damage on bones.
 

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