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Orlanth

Bones 4 Skeletal Dragon help needed

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Hello.  New poster but old collector.  I have used Bones for a while now, backed Bones 3 and Bones 4 and been mostly happy.  I am fully aware that bonesium has issues with regards to rigidity but never has this been a problem before.  All the models I have bought before have stood up well.  Until Bones 4 skeleton dragon.

 

I pinned the wing stubs, but both entire wings droop horribly.  I tried laying the dragon on its side but that doesn't help,  it just droops differently and very quickly, it had reposed itself in under a week when left on its side so both wings were flat above each other..  Something is very wrong with this miniature, the rest of the dragon does not droop, in fact the model was designed based on earlier mistakes with dragons.  Thing is Marthrangul, the largest other dragon I own has no droop issues.  Though I know Reaper makes much bigger dragons than that.

 

I don't know what to do.  The only way I could pin it now it to chop it into little pieces and pin each one.  The alternate is to ask for Bones to ship me new wings of newer bonesium, or grant me permission to home case replacement wings for my own use out of resin.  Which is not ideal as it would be an amateur job.

 

If I heated it and remolded it, is there any special paint or coating that would give the model rigidity.  What about a heavy varnish or glue undercoat or something similar.

 

 

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Megan scooted this to me -

 

*EDIT* Spoilered because seems like too much work.



I have been toying with the idea of 'route and grout' - using a Dremel or table router to carve out a channel on some of the thinner Bones and Bones Black pieces.

 

Use the Dremel to carve out a channel wide enough for a length of stiff wire, bending the wire where needed to fit the shape of the piece.

 

Super glue the wire in place, then fill the channel with Green Stuff.

 

Finally, recreate any surface that needs to be matched up to the original piece, again, using Green Stuff.

 

The stiff wire that I intend to use came from the Teflon sheet for a commercial toaster....

***

 

Another, much less involved, process is to cheat - get some Woodland Scenics trees (metal trees may work better, and they make some dead trees that will look good, I think), add a few to the base - including one on either side of the dragon, pinning the wings to the trees - going through the sides, so it looks like the dragon is muscling through the trees, and preferably offsetting them, so it doesn't look too staged. (Pin one wing near the place where all the 'fingers' come together, another near the tip.)

 

tk22_f_1.jpg

 

tk12_f_1.jpg

 

With a little bit of work you can have one of the trees being pushed over by the dragon's wing.

 

*EDIT* Alternately, you can use bits of branch and twig to make the trees.

 

***

 

I needed to use a similar method with my old Deathsleet Bones model - wrapping one of the dragon's claws around a tree's branch, to keep the whole dragon from drooping.

 

Reaper took a similar approach with Verocithrax - using a dead tree to support the model.

77361_w_1.jpg

 

Hope this helps!

 

The Auld Grump *EDIT* I pretty much managed to talk myself out of the 'route and grout' method in the process of writing this reply.... <_< The tree method I can already attest to functioning pretty well.

Edited by TheAuldGrump

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