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In Squidmar Miniatures paintbrushes, the insight of accomplished painters, impeccable production quality, luxurious aesthetics and the finest Kolinsky Sable are all brought together to create an experience which combines style, comfort and practicality in equal measure.
Our brushes feature a wide body (AKA the “belly”) while maintaining a sharp point. This allows a Squidmar Miniatures brush to hold more paint in its bristles without losing its point, and lends it the stability and elasticity needed to make the brush feel properly responsive to your movements. Additionally, this design allows you to use a larger brush than you might have normally to accomplish even finer details! The Tobolski Kolinsky hair is compared to Synthetics well rounded and great at keeping its original shape. Giving you a longer working time during paint jobs and lasts you longer keeping the tip pristine even after working on big projects for longer times.
Squidmar Brushes - Size Comparison - Equivalent of approximately 00-2 (differs from brand to brand) Our basic brush set contains four Squidmar Miniatures brushes, ranging from XS to L. We chose these four because we feel they represent the most common, and best suited, brush sizes for miniature painting. In addition to our basic set, however, we've also designed a tiny brush, for the finest of details, and an XL brush for heavy duty paint jobs! Armed with a full set of Squidmar Miniatures brushes, you'll be ready to take on any painting project! No wargaming army is too massive, no immaculately detailed display miniature too exquisite!
The brushes, from Tiny to Extra Large! Wow, those are some cool ferrules! Not only are the brushes wider, so are the handles! They are designed for comfort and ergonomics, adapted to the anatomy of the human hand. The handles of Squidmar Miniatures brushes are therefore thicker and slightly triangular. This allows the brush to rest naturally in your hand, which lets you relax and focus on painting without risking the dreaded “painter’s cramp”. Oh, and did we mention the fancy gold ferrule? We thought it’d look cooler that way.
Your brushes are the safest when they're guarded by an antediluvian squid-being! Our brushes ship in a sleek cylindrical storage case. The bottom of the case is lined with a dense storage foam to stick the brushes into. This allows a Squidmar Miniatures brush to rest standing up, and avoids having any pressure placed on the bristles themselves. An open storage case additionally serves as a handy paintbrush stand while sitting at your workstation, your entire collection standing at attention! Handy, right?
Cool and practical in equal measure! Not only are we Kickstarting world-class paintbrushes, we're also introducing a line of exquisite miniature busts, custom sculpted for our campaign! Each bust is incredibly detailed, imaginatively designed, and bursting with character - sculpted by such renowned artists as Joaqin Palacios and Leonardo Escobar Quintero! There are 5 of these resin cast miniatures in total at 1/10 scale, ranging from 6.5 centimeters to as large as 10 centimeters. The retail cost of these never-before seen miniatures will range from 45€ to 55€, but all will be exclusively available for 40€ each through this Kickstarter, or even cheaper when purchased in a bundle!
These fantastic miniature busts are specifically designed to help you become a better painter, sculpted to enable you to practice (and master!) painting everything from warm, rugged skin to cold, gleaming metal! Don't worry, though, we're here to guide you through it. Each bust is accompanied by a YouTube video painting guide where expert painters demonstrate advanced techniques, made simple!
Squidmar's Boxart of Illonth Magic in the making! The Squidmar Miniatures paintbrushes are hand-crafted to exacting specifications by experienced professionals, using only the highest quality materials and the finest Kolinsky Sable hair. The union of comfort and practicality in each brush is perfect for experienced painters working to master their craft, beginners who are brand new to miniature painting, and everyone in between!
This Kickstarter is a great opportunity to not only grab a set of fantastic paintbrushes but a set of beautiful miniature busts as well! These finely detailed miniature busts, bursting with character, will allow you to grow and develop as a painter. We'll be with you throughout your journey through our custom painting tutorials, where we'll do our best to guide you through a variety of advanced techniques.
Finally, a heartfelt thank you from our entire campaign for taking the time to read this, and we hope you pledge a contribution, no matter how small. Join us in our quest for the miniature paintbrush of our dreams!
This is my first time sharing my miniatures step by step, and excited to do so. Hopefully I can learn some things and everyone else who views the thread will learn a bit too.
I have been looking forward to the Starcadia board game and especially painting the minis that come with it. So first up is the Weeble alien monster. I picked it for 2 reasons, 1 because it was a simple model and I wanted to try my hand at the big eye. There are 4 total Weeble models and it took about 4-5 hours to get to the point in the last photo. I decided to mimic the illustration that came on the Weeble card in the game, so I am using a similar color scheme.
First step was prepping the model, and removing the mold lines. 2 of the 4 models had 2 bad areas on their left fin that left gaps and a rough spot. To fix it, I tried a new method, I put a little varnish on each area. If you haven't tried it, I definitely recommend it for small gaps or trouble areas that need filled or smoothed. I put a small dab on, let it dry and done, no need to pull out the putty.
2nd step was priming. I don't like the spray can so I use gesso. It might take a little longer, but no noxious fumes and extra space needed, just brush it on and let it dry. I just spread it thin and quick most of the time, hence the streaking in the picture. The streaking never shows on a finished mini from what I have experienced.
3 is where the fun began for me, choosing the colors and beginning to paint. My most recent elven minis, I started experimenting with different ways to do base coating and time around I am trying a colored base that is different that the final paint layer. I'm trying this out to see if I can reduce a step in my process and still get results I like. After examining the illustration, I settled on a blue-green for the body of the Weeble, and yellow for the eye. I plan on keeping with the warm yellow highlight in the front and the cold blue / purple shadow in the back. Once I decided that, I chose my basing colors, of a dark yellow brown for the front and dark blue purple for the back.
4 with the base shadows on the model, I started working from dark to light. I mixed up a glaze of a medium green and medium purple blue. I gradually worked up the colors with multiple layers making sure to blend the colors together where the transition occurred between them. I left the eye alone, because the dark yellow brown was perfect for the yellow eye.
5 once I was happy with the dark colors, I moved on to my mid-tones. I mixed up glazes of yellow green for the warm light and a blue green for the cold light. I took my time on this step again applying the glazes in layers to build up the color. I decided to try reflected / bounce lighting on the model, so I applied the blue green more on top of the model and the yellow green more on the bottom. I imagine the lighting being blue white (like a daylight bulb) which results a warmer reflected light in the areas not directly hit by the blue light.
6 after a while I moved on to the eye. I continued with painting dark to light, so I chose an orange brown for the light area and the same yellow brown and dark blue purple for the shadowed area. Again I gradually applied the glazes and blended them together.
Overall I am pleased with the direction it is going, and it is still far from done. I having gotten to the brightest highlights or even attempted the mouth yet. After that will be the finishing touches, the green slime, and scaly lumps. In the illustration the lumps are black but I don't think black will look good, any suggestions? I was also thinking of doing a slime trail, or more drool I've not done something like that before does anyone have any suggestions in the direction? Or should I not do a slime trail or more drool?
Hello all! I'm working on the blacksting wyvern from bones 4, as you can see from the title. Getting ready to start base coating some color in and noticed an area I'm not sure if it is supposed to be anatomically correct or not filled In from when made. No it does not sit on anything either that they would plug into.
Any thoughts would be appreciated!
Happy painting and stay safe!
Another 3D print that I’m working on, this time a big one. I’ve shoes away from buying/printing dragons for the most part as I have a ton of amazing Reaper ones still to paint (or finish... ) but this one was a freebie of sorts from one of the creators I follow on Patreon.
In keeping with my clear resin tricks, I whipped up the base really quickly and then stalled on how I was going to paint the actual dragon... oops!
I masked off the crystals and plugged the holes for the feet and primed it with a mix of brown and grey Vallejo primers, drybrushed it with a tan followed by a tan mixed with white and then it got a series of Vallejo model washes (green, grey and dark brown). I then peeled off the mask and gave the crystals a quick coat with Tamiya Clear Green.
For the actual dragon, the plan now is to paint the heavier scales like the base with the softer belly and flesh being brown.
Like my recent plague doctor bust, I masked his eyes so they will be the same green as the crystals on his base. I toyed with putting a light in his head as well, but seems to be doing that to everything all of a sudden, and skipped it.
in case you’re wondering about the pink, that’s what mixing the Vallejo red and grey primers did. The base was that colour before the drybrush and washes.
Hoping to get some more work on the brown and get the drybrush done on his scales this weekend. That’s going to be a lot of drybrushing!!
Thanks for looking.
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