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Durability of models


MaskedCoward
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Another Norwegian?

 

Soon there's enough of us that we can TAKE OVER THE FORUM!

 

Or somethig like that....   

 

You may want to add Norway to your profile. It sometimes helps to know where a user is, if they ask for something. 

Can I ask where in Norway?

(I'm near Molde)

 

About fixing it yourself is something breaks off...  

that usually requires 'pinning' (inserting a thin metal rod into the part to stiffen it. That means drilling holes in the part. And that's done with a 'pin vise'')

If you don't have one, you could try Spillsjefen, Amundsen Hobby(awful website, located in Trondheim) or even Gamezone. Spillsjefen sells some Reaper paints and minis also.  

 

 

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3 hours ago, MaskedCoward said:

Though my idea to 'fix' it was to use low heat and melt it back on. Making even more fragile which would give even more problems later on. 

 

I would strongly recommend that you not do that. Metal miniatures have very high thermal conductivity. Which means that when you get to the melting point of the metal at the break, you're also at or very close to the same temperature on the whole mini. The most common result of attempting a weld with tin minis is a blob of tin. The good news about that, I suppose, is that you wouldn't have any mold lines. :poke:

 

For gluing metal minis, I like to use 5-minute epoxy. (I mostly use JB Kwik, but any 5-minute epoxy should work.) Here's a tutorial for a pretty simple way to pin minis: http://www.coolminiornot.com/articles/1589

 

For other tips, you might want to take a look at this thread:

 

https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/32513-the-tutorials-database/

Edited by Doug Sundseth
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On September 6, 2019 at 4:39 PM, MaskedCoward said:

I'm from Tromsø, so I'm very limited when it comes to local shops. Got to order most things online, unfortunately. 

Though my idea to 'fix' it was to use low heat and melt it back on. Making even more fragile which would give even more problems later on. 

Welcome - some good advice already given, and typically is.

 

i have been to Tromso - nice town, went to see northern most University/only University above the Artic circle (or something along those lines!)

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Doug Sundseth pretty much said what I would say. Typically, mini-metal can bend quite a bit before breaking, even if it is making awful cracking noises. But not every time - I have been surprised by some instantaneous breaks as soon as I started to reposition something. But this was on fairly thick legs, and it was a snap to pin them back on.

 

I've  never heard of anyone welding the tin-antimony-bismuth alloy used. I seriously doubt it would work.

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13 hours ago, Madog Barfog said:

Doug Sundseth pretty much said what I would say. Typically, mini-metal can bend quite a bit before breaking, even if it is making awful cracking noises. But not every time - I have been surprised by some instantaneous breaks as soon as I started to reposition something. But this was on fairly thick legs, and it was a snap to pin them back on.

 

I've  never heard of anyone welding the tin-antimony-bismuth alloy used. I seriously doubt it would work.

Me, the 90s, Ral Partha Battletech King Crab, a soldering iron, a stubborn broken arm...

 

It ended with a shiny spherical blob where the shoulder/elbow used to be.

 

Now ask me how I "fixed" a deeply scratched CD with a candle (to melt the plastic into a smooth surface again obviously). P.S. I got to buy a new CD.

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