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89005 | Amiri, Iconic Barbarian (Bones version) WIP


rubegon
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I will also say that Reaper's Metallics, while they have probably the largest variety of color outside a craft paint line, are not the best. Most of the metallic paint I use comes from Privateer Press. The P3 line comes in pots, which angers me beyond reason, but I have a tiny funnel and empty dropper bottles to solve that problem. P3 Metallics go on quite smooth, after you've shaken the ever-loving broccoli out of them.

 

I also use the shaded metallic technique. Proctor's class at Reapercon was really great when I took it, but I first learned about the technique here on the forums:

 

Jabberwocky's Shaded Metallics

 

Jabber's short tutorial isn't as in depth as proctor's class, but it gets the basic gist down for you to start playing with the idea. Unfortunately, GW changed the formulas for their washes, and the current wash formulas aren't as good for this application. I find that Reaper's liners do really good work in this technique (thin them!), and Vallejo makes a paint called "Smoke" which is also really good.

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TThanks again for the feedback and suggestions!  I really appreciate the help - it's saving me a lot of time as I'm trying to improve!

 

23 hours ago, Al Capwn said:

 

True Metallic Metals (TMM) can be done; Michael Proctor has a solid class on doing them to look right. You aren't alone, but I will say this: With the exception of Vallejo Metal Color, most metallics are pretty terrible. They tend to be thick, yet do not thin easily. You can apply the principles of NMM to TMM, but if you are looking for a good metallic paint, Reaper unfortunately is not one of them and in fact is prob one of their weakest line ups. The trick to TMM is to kill the sheen in the shadows; you can do so fairly easily with a wash or the Reaper Liner paints.

 

Normally I am not a brand fan boy per se, but pick up a bottle of Vallejo Metal Color and I can pretty much promise you an entirely different experience. Somewhat spendy, but worth every penny. That being said, they really only have a solid range in the "Silver" line-up (Gunmetal, Steel, Silver and Alluminum/Chrome). The Copper and Gold are smooth, but I don't particularly like the Gold since it leans towards the Green-Gold spectrum, and I prefer my Gold colors to learn towards Orange/Brown.

 

There's a Vallejo metallics set on Amazon for ~$23, but I don't really want all 6 paints.  I might get a couple of the silver-toned ones to practice with - like a basic steel and a lighter highlight color to go with it.

 

I actually tried to shade the spear tips with Charred Brown, then brightened up the lighlight areas again with Dragon Bronze, and highlighted with Dragon Bronze/Polished Silver but I didn't get the effect I was hoping for.

 

If I don't figure this out by next ReaperCon, I'll make sure to take that class!

 

9 hours ago, Sanael said:

I also use the shaded metallic technique. Proctor's class at Reapercon was really great when I took it, but I first learned about the technique here on the forums:

 

Jabberwocky's Shaded Metallics

 

Jabber's short tutorial isn't as in depth as proctor's class, but it gets the basic gist down for you to start playing with the idea. Unfortunately, GW changed the formulas for their washes, and the current wash formulas aren't as good for this application. I find that Reaper's liners do really good work in this technique (thin them!), and Vallejo makes a paint called "Smoke" which is also really good.

 

Thanks for pointing me to that tutorial!  When I view that thread the images are all watermarked/blurred photobucket pics, but I did manage to find it as a blog post he made some time ago.  THAT's the effect I want.  I'll work on this process - it's helpful to know that I should kill the reflectivity in the shaded areas - I was trying to keep it reflective while going darker.

 

I have a few GW washes, but I keep reading about the Reaper liner paints as being good primer coats and now for this.  I need to see if I got some of them in the mega paint set I won at auction at ReaperCon - if not I might order the blue/brown/grey triad.

 

12 hours ago, aku-chan said:

Thinning down metallic paint with a Medium instead of water helps enormously, I use Liquidtex Airbrush Medium.

 

Thanks @aku-chan.  I have some Liquitex matte  and glazing mediums, as well as Vallejo Airbrush Thinner.  I feel like the mediums would dilute the pigment but not change how thick the paint is.  The problem I'm having is that the paint quickly gets clumpy on the brush and doesn't flow smoothly onto the model.  Do you think any of the stuff I have  (or a mix maybe) would help with thinning the Reaper metallics?

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3 minutes ago, rubegon said:

There's a Vallejo metallics set on Amazon for ~$23, but I don't really want all 6 paints

 

Nope, those are Model Color and those are garbage.

 

You will want Vallejo Metal Color, if anything. It is the name of the line and different bottle. Such as this: Vallejo Metal Color.

 

...and yes, they are 10 bucks a pop, so I would start with only one, such as Silver. I will eat my imaginary hat if they are not the best acrylic metal paints.

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10 minutes ago, Al Capwn said:

 

Nope, those are Model Color and those are garbage.

 

You will want Vallejo Metal Color, if anything. It is the name of the line and different bottle. Such as this: Vallejo Metal Color.

 

...and yes, they are 10 bucks a pop, so I would start with only one, such as Silver. I will eat my imaginary hat if they are not the best acrylic metal paints.

 

Crap!  Thanks for pointing that out.  I just searched for "Vallejo Metal Color," and Amazon helpfully showed me the set of Model Color metallics in my search results.  At least the good ones are 32ml bottles, so it's more like $5 really ...

 

I'll pop one of those in my cart.

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11 hours ago, rubegon said:

I have some Liquitex matte  and glazing mediums, as well as Vallejo Airbrush Thinner.  I feel like the mediums would dilute the pigment but not change how thick the paint is.  The problem I'm having is that the paint quickly gets clumpy on the brush and doesn't flow smoothly onto the model.  Do you think any of the stuff I have  (or a mix maybe) would help with thinning the Reaper metallics?

 

Hmm... Not sure.

The matte medium might work, I'd give it a try on something unimportant.

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For TMM, I'd recommend getting some Reaper Old Bronze, and some Tarnished Steel. Then you'll want either Vallejo Model Air Chrome or Aluminium or  Vallejo's Metallic Medium. My experience with those two Reaper paints has been especially good. I find some of their metals will get chalky when mixed or thinned but those two do not. You use the chrome/aluminium or metallic medium to highlight. Use non-metallic paint to shade.

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Haven’t spent much time on her in the past couple of weeks, but I haven’t forgotten about her either!

 

I needed to basically re(under)paint her leather armor so I can build up a brighter red to get more contrast, and I was dreading that.  I put it off enough that I started painting Demogorgon instead!  Anyway, here she is now, armor under-painted in skeleton bone (don’t mind my Sleeping Beauty mug in the background).

 

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Next I’m going to do the skin before coming back to repaint the armor.  I think I need to get the skin somewhat finished before I redo the armor.

 

I also got a bunch of new metallics following suggestions here - thanks for those everyone.  I’ll get to using those when I repaint the javelin tips later, and hopefully learn from that before I tackle the sword.

 

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I started out edging the skin with charred brown, but then realized I needed something darker and that I needed to use a smaller brush.  I switched to Brown Liner and used a Da Vinci 000 for the first time.  That worked pretty well but the early attempts left it a bit messy.

 

I re-basecoated the face with Ruddy Flesh, cleaned up the lining and blacked out the eyes with Brown Liner.  Then I started shading up through Leather Brown and Buckskin Pale.  I want her to look like a Native American wood elf.

 

I think I chose those colors poorly.  The highlight is too pale and too yellow, and I don’t think my middle tone is right either.  I’m considering redoing it all with one of the triads since I have a few in the MSP set 2 I won at the RC auction.

 

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Redid the face with the Olive Skin triad, touched the bottom lip with some Olive Skin + Dragon Red, sclera in Dragon White, then irises in Brown Liner.  I want to do an eye highlight and some lighter skin highlights, maybe some targeted shading to get better definition on her features, but now I’m scared to touch her face again.

 

 

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2 hours ago, Darcstaar said:

Looks so good.  I wouldn’t mess with the eyes.  If anything, maybe the face needs some more exaggerated shadows or highlights.  I really like that skin triad!

 

Thanks!  This triad is so much better than what I did at first.  Choosing colors is hard - I’ll leave it to Anne to do the hard work for me for now.

 

I agree about the shading on the face.  I’m think of mixing:

 

Shadows: olive shadow + brown liner (or something cooler like grey liner?)

Highlights: olive highlight + a warm off-white?

 

I would thin those with brush on sealer or matte medium to try to make them translucent.

 

Does that sound good, or any other suggestions?

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The face is done-ish I think.  Maybe not.  She looks a little bunny-toothed now that I look at her again.

 

Worked on the rest of the skin some tonight.  I found some mold lines on her fingers (Gah!  Hate those!) that I hastily cleaned up before proceeding.  Also reassessed what is supposed to be skin and what isn’t a little.  I think I’m pretty much on rails to get the rest of the skin done, then it’s back to make the armor red again.

 

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Added specular highlights to her eyeballs.  Like 10 times before they looked ok.

 

It feels like I’m never going to finish this mini!  If I do though it’s going to be the best paint job I’ve ever done by far - on a freebie bones mini I got in Mini Painting 101!

 

I probably should have done this on one of the many metal minis I have stashed away - oh well.  I’m definitely getting better, and that was the point.

 

 

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