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Mnemonic

Already broke my "reapercon paint poke stick"

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(brief moment of silence)

 

Poor thing only made it through 2 or 3 uses. Oh well, back to my trusty paperclip and the metal skull goes into the jar for next year's melt table.

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1 hour ago, Mnemonic said:

(brief moment of silence)

 

Poor thing only made it through 2 or 3 uses. Oh well, back to my trusty paperclip and the metal skull goes into the jar for next year's melt table.

Those are for paint bottles only :lol:

Maybe you should be more gentle paint.

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I hear there's a product called JB Weld that is good for gluing metal to metal. 

 

 

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I haven't tried out the new pokers I got this year yet, but this isn't the first I've heard of one breaking under intended use.  Maybe I should risk it, see what happens and if it provides any clarity.  

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They're made by sticking a T pin to the hot liquid metal after it has been poured into a mold.  If the end of the pin isn't sufficiently covered by liquid metal it won't hold.  I've seen some that had a little extra blob of metal on them to hold the pin, but if the metal had started to cool it might not have formed a good seal. 

 

 

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4 hours ago, Inarah said:

They're made by sticking a T pin to the hot liquid metal after it has been poured into a mold.  If the end of the pin isn't sufficiently covered by liquid metal it won't hold.  I've seen some that had a little extra blob of metal on them to hold the pin, but if the metal had started to cool it might not have formed a good seal. 

That doesn't sound right.  Melted metal cools too quickly.

 

It is more likely that

  • the pin in placed into its spot on the mold,
  • the mold is closed,
  • placed into the spin caster,
  • the metal is poured into the spinning mold
  • and then opened and removed from mold,
  • taken off the casting sprue.
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1 hour ago, ladystorm said:

That doesn't sound right.  Melted metal cools too quickly.

 

It is more likely that

  • the pin in placed into its spot on the mold,
  • the mold is closed,
  • placed into the spin caster,
  • the metal is poured into the spinning mold
  • and then opened and removed from mold,
  • taken off the casting sprue.

 

I recall the initial offering of these, they were a pain to cast, do you know if they've improved the method? I still have mine from the first time they were offered. Very handy tool.

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So I put my new ones through the rigours, even tried bending 'em and whacking them off stuff and they're still okay.  So I guess a small handful are gving trouble?  I noticed the T-pins are not seated the same in all of mine, so maybe too much of them was poking out the back of the fragile ones and the metal skull was only gripping on to a tiny part of the pin.  

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Thanks for the sympathies! We will someday recover and rebuild! :p
I picked out this particular one because it had all of the T-pin's "handle" inside the metal skull. Compared to another T-pin I have, I can see it broke on the first bend.
My DIY one still does the trick though, just not as fancy looking

20191008_134251.jpg

Edited by Mnemonic
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Betcha if you contacted Reaper, they would replace it.

 

But your version is a fine piece of ingenuity.

Edited by Highlander
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I recommend ball headed quilt pins. You can get a couple hundred at a time for a few bucks at most craft stores. 

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Huh.  That actually broke on the pin, not the cast metal head.  So, in that case anyway, it doesn't seem like it was a casting or manufacturing error on Reaper's end, but possibly one wherever the t-pins came from.  

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I bought 3 at ReaperCon, and I've had to superglue all my pins back into the skull, as they all have popped out during routine unclogging of dropper bottles.  

 

None "broke"; but the pin seems to of just slipped out of the skull.  Was able to realign into skull and poured on the glue.  Strange. 

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