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3D Printing General Discussion (merged)


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Having given up on the Ender 3 Pro, I ordered a Ender 5 Plus last week, and it arrived Friday during game session so I wasn't able to play until Saturday morning.

 

Saturday I managed to get it put together before the demonspawn arrive for festivities and when I plugged it in to start fine tuning it, the minute it started to heat up, the UPS would shut down. Cost me a print job on the Snapmaker, fortunately the CR-10 managed to resume where it left off. I then decided to put it on its own UPS, so I needed to wait  for the battery to charge. So much for having it running on Saturday.

 

This morning I plugged it in and fired it up. As soon as the bed started heating up, there goes the UPS. Turns out that the Ender 5 pulls 600W and my UPS was only rated for 510W. New larger UPS on order. In the meantime, I can still use the surge protection to run the printer. I got it basically leveled (still need to fine tune it a little), and currently have a print job running. 

 

It seems that for the first time ever, I have 3/3 printer operating. :winkthumbs: 

 

Need to figure out why I have a bunch of cobweb type stringing on my CR-10, using Amazon Basic Black PLA, 205/60, Retraction I think is at default of 6mm (didn't have this setting active in CURA 4.6.1 when I sliced the file. Thoughts?

 

The biggest issue I foresee having with the Ender 5 Plus is that it doesn't read filenames over 15 chars.

Edited by TripleH
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Got a new LCD for my Kudo3D Bean printer. 

I decided to get it fixed up...   

I will NOT buy a new vat for it to replace the old, warped ones, though. I plan to fit it with clamps to hold a Photon vat instead. 

 

The big reason for getting it fixed up is that this one uses 395nm UV light instead of 405nm like my Photon, the Elegoos and most other budget brand printers. 

And some resins(Such as Kudo3D's 3SR brand) works better with 395nm UV. 

 

Also, it never hurts to have a spare printer... 

 

In other news, I fired up my old DreamMaker Overlord Pro today, and tested that the hot-end works. 

(It heats up pretty quickly actually. )

The fan on the back that's supposed to cool the top of the hot-end, though, didn't start. 

As soon as I get that sorted it's time to get the motors stepping. 

 

For those that need a reminder, the Overlord Pro is a 'Delta' style 3D printer from 2016. 

(3 towers, with the hot-end suspended by arms mounted on slides on the towers. movement to the sides is done by moving the slides up and down. these printers can typically do 150 - 200mm/s while a regular 3D printer is from 50 - 100mm/s)

 

So far I've replaced the old 8bit Arduino clone motherboard with a 32bit Azteeg GT 5X board with a network module. 

the hot-end heater has been swapped from 40 to 60W. 

And I'm slowly working on designing a proper fan duct for the front fan(cools the plastic after it exits the hot-end)

The internal battery backup has been removed(no problem, my UPS is a 1100VA version... ) and a new 360W/24V PSU has replaced the 200W original. (it was too small even for the original electronics)

 

 

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The only thing they really skimped on on this one was the electronics. 

Arduino clone with custom stepper drivers(can't be sourced new any more) that only did 8x microstepping. 

 

The SD6128 drivers I got can do 128x microstepping... 

(16x or better tends to be much more quiet)

And it's the version with digitally controlled current setting, so I can set the power to each motor just by editing a line in a config file, instead of messing with a small screwdriver and ruining a way too small potentiometer... 

 

The really big problem with delta printers is all the time you lose while staring at it working. 

The durn things are really hypnotic. 

 

They can be difficult to set up correctly, so a lot of them end up in attics or Craigslist. You may be able to find a cheap one if you keep an eye out. 

Just stay away from homebuilds. 

(Odds are that they were given up because the creator ran into a problem with the design)   

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2 hours ago, Standifer said:

Well it was mostly successful. It is currently sun curing.

however I have no turret. It started but it didn’t stay attached to the build plate. 
Thoughts?3625CA78-7E5A-43CA-8531-142E30AAF6FB.jpeg.1153f037f53b192f56a6336af90e2bd6.jpeg

My guesses:
1) Build plate wasn't level, so the turret did not adhere correctly

2) Need longer curing on the bottom layers/more bottom layers

3) Insufficient/too small (light instead of medium/heavy) supports - THIS is my guess based on the picture - presuming that the square on the left was on the build plate and the blob on the right on the FEP)

4) Clean the build with IPA prior to printing (even though I don't use IPA for a lot of stuff with my printer I still use it for cleaning anything I handle to remove fingerprints etc.)

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15 minutes ago, ratsmitglied said:

My guesses:
1) Build plate wasn't level, so the turret did not adhere correctly

2) Need longer curing on the bottom layers/more bottom layers

3) Insufficient/too small (light instead of medium/heavy) supports - THIS is my guess based on the picture - presuming that the square on the left was on the build plate and the blob on the right on the FEP)

4) Clean the build with IPA prior to printing (even though I don't use IPA for a lot of stuff with my printer I still use it for cleaning anything I handle to remove fingerprints etc.)

Thanks! I shall keep all these in mind in the future. 
The square on the left was stuck to the fep. The little bit on the right is a piece from the tanks supports. I intend to cure the supports so I can safely dispose of them.
I took the precaution of releveling the build plate and cleaning it with alcohol. Started a pair of knights, all seems to be going well so far. 

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Ran into my first spool of brittle filament.  I don't hear any cracking or popping but it might be water?  The first half of spool worked fine

  Any suggestions/recommendations?  If nothing else in will switch it to the Prusa which uses a direct drive (no boden tube) and feeds in a straight line to minimize bending stress on the filament.  Just curious if there was an easy solution.  (I'm cheap and notnezcotrd about throwing away half a spool...)

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55 minutes ago, Kangaroorex said:

Ran into my first spool of brittle filament.  I don't hear any cracking or popping but it might be water?  The first half of spool worked fine

  Any suggestions/recommendations?  If nothing else in will switch it to the Prusa which uses a direct drive (no boden tube) and feeds in a straight line to minimize bending stress on the filament.  Just curious if there was an easy solution.  (I'm cheap and notnezcotrd about throwing away half a spool...)

 

If it's water, iI'll break in the Prusa also. 

You need to dry out the filament before you can use it. 

A dedicated filament dryer is the best, but a food dryer can be useed.

(Many filament driers are just modified food driers)

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Right I need your advice again.

 

QUESTION 1

 

The presupported file failed.

So I needed to clean the VAT.

 

I can ( again) see some damage to the FEP.

I can feel this on both sides and see it on both sides of the FEP.

It is still closed though, I filled it with water to test for leakage, which wasn't the case.

 

Will it withstand the suction force of printing? Or do I need to replace the FEP again?

 

QUESTION 2/EDIT

 

The file I supported myself worked fine.

The sample file ( presupported) failed as I feared.

Usually one can tinker with supports regardless.

 

With this one I couldn't, it will immediately lift the whole thing from the buildplate if I add one support from myself and I can't remove the existing ones?

Does anyone know how to do that with this kind of files?

EDIT:

The lifting can be adjusted, it was defaulted when you go to the support menu, just put the lift on 0.

Still, I can add supports now but the existing ones can't be edited or removed.

 

 

Because I wanted to back, but if these can't be tinkered with, I won't.

 

It's this one from the KS, free sample.

 

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/printyourmonsters/fantastic-plants-and-rocks

image.png.cdeed1aa2cf56f4d7944d1c7de512407.png

 

 

 

 

Edited by Glitterwolf
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1 hour ago, Glitterwolf said:

Right I need your advice again.

 

QUESTION 1

 

The presupported file failed.

So I needed to clean the VAT.

 

I can ( again) see some damage to the FEP.

I can feel this on both sides and see it on both sides of the FEP.

It is still closed though, I filled it with water to test for leakage, which wasn't the case.

 

Will it withstand the suction force of printing? Or do I need to replace the FEP again?

typically yes. My FEP was looking real bad for a long time before it finally started leaking on me with no adverse effects, and when it started leaking it was just small pinholes.  (P.S. be sure you've taped your screen.)

 

1 hour ago, Glitterwolf said:

QUESTION 2/EDIT

The file I supported myself worked fine.

The sample file ( presupported) failed as I feared.

Usually one can tinker with supports regardless.

 

With this one I couldn't, it will immediately lift the whole thing from the buildplate if I add one support from myself and I can't remove the existing ones?

Does anyone know how to do that with this kind of files?

EDIT:

The lifting can be adjusted, it was defaulted when you go to the support menu, just put the lift on 0.

Still, I can add supports now but the existing ones can't be edited or removed.

 

 

Because I wanted to back, but if these can't be tinkered with, I won't.

 

It's this one from the KS, free sample.

 

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/printyourmonsters/fantastic-plants-and-rocks

 

 

You may want to ask the creator to be sure, but in my limited experience, most STL creators who offer 'pre-supported' they will also offer the original unsupported, because there are a lot of people in the community who prefer to do their own supports or have other things they're doing where the supports would be an issue.   Some oddball resins or newer vs older vats may require more supports or more robust supports, etc.  Or they may want to scale (up or down) the print, and that changes the support requirements entirely.

 

 Plus there's the issue that pre-supported for FDM will never work on resin and  pre-supported for resin can be a cobwebby nightmare for FDM.  In the case of a few Patreon's I back, their pre-supported files come in the form of Chitubox project files, where you actually CAN edit the supports.

 

I do find myself fixating on the quote "All the STL models have been printed and tested for a pre-supported version as well."

The 'as well' part of the quote inclines me to think they'll provide both, but it could be worth asking a direct question.

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Thx @Cygnwulf I did use Kapton Tape on the edges of the screen.

I think I will play it safe and change the FEP again.

A pity, second one in almost 3,5 months.

 

But I still love printing.

 

As for the supports, this was a freebie, I found the lifting problem, solved..

I can add supports so I can make it work I guess, it's just annoying you can't remove the pre-existing ones..

I might back after all.

 

 

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