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I’ve been printing quite a bit lately for my D&D game I’m running.  
 

started with the Ashen Manticore from Artisan Guild.  First time trying their pre-supported models and everything turned out perfect.

 

Im using a new resin mixture of 50/50 anycubic grey and siraya blu.

 DCA998C1-4964-43FC-B684-4F4295448AAD.thumb.jpeg.dc39e8b202ff615402f3764f5b300df7.jpeg

 

DDB29656-F0B5-441A-83D4-2F3F710907F1.thumb.jpeg.28ab845fae50c8f0cc65b4f0dc22b185.jpeg


next up are some hero forge minis.  they had a huge sale on STL files a month ago or so.  They’re all primed, it really makes it easier to see the details on them.  The trifling ranger and Goliath barbarian are PCs.  
 

C5396406-8232-4EEF-971D-FC03E316265A.thumb.jpeg.84b2812bb012ff9f75d617736165bd4a.jpeg

 

460C5E7C-3A97-4353-B605-3ECCE6A4D122.thumb.jpeg.638f4ee42d407213f93c03fff95ac7f1.jpeg

 

E49931C4-CCD4-4AF8-ADC9-CC7ED44815FE.thumb.jpeg.c4284624ed1ffebf1d5efb4e7abd3774.jpeg

 

45F0434D-422F-4BB0-AB42-00DC4A41D43D.thumb.jpeg.355cab201e02ad8adf58a1d515b3deb2.jpeg

 

90E361FD-531E-4FC3-825D-A0C8520795C8.thumb.jpeg.3c2804da144b7fa6f2483850e3a900a1.jpeg

 

while the dwarf and ranger with his hand on his sword are NPCs.

 

0CCEF37C-70C6-4B35-85E7-87E571938EDE.thumb.jpeg.3e37395eaafa137843b0f898e732a34c.jpeg


71AF48BE-44E5-4ACC-AD7B-9D1FE376AE66.thumb.jpeg.13edf1f51d034913e1a294650af8c426.jpeg

 

7B524EC4-A7E9-4F89-BC01-026C99F1AA8B.thumb.jpeg.fcb2fcff4ea0585efa4d8ab94230d9fa.jpeg

 

8EC23C72-73AB-4C6D-A494-A4994373F358.thumb.jpeg.8869b77b3d9481c0795a54adc56ece3d.jpeg

 

 Lastly is a hobgoblin who’s an early game boss.  I have a version of him printing now riding a worg.

 

27C29F88-1C8F-46FB-A464-68DDC6B354F7.thumb.jpeg.7e64f558d0d13ebfaaef065012c45a26.jpeg

 

C48DCFC8-4677-4860-9A06-567CA331BECF.thumb.jpeg.aaa79f92db962c9a84f428d1c8ba75f7.jpeg

 

EADEC86D-46F3-4F45-B1FB-C38552968305.thumb.jpeg.c2ac6ba3f4822dcd60fbbfb735209195.jpeg

 

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Saga of 'A Gambit of Guns' continues... I finally settled in last night to do some support work with that left arm. I decided to take the pre-supported file again and try and reinforce it even more than I did before. The next step is using the split file I created and do that. And... it worked!

 

But... In my infinite clumsiness, I decided to SNAP IT OFF while cleaning it! 

Sooner or later, your character is going to get mad. And I don't mean “mad  dog” mad, I mean steam-out-the-no… | Disney villains, Disney funny, Disney  and dreamworks

I'll reprint it. AGAIN. But for now I'll get something else going.

 

Some GOOD news though, I do have a couple successful prints over the last week.

 

Arch Villain Games Bear Vanguard.

IMG_20200909_195138_0.thumb.jpg.82a0265d6882fd555971c4f6f84beffc.jpg

 

Artisan Guild Kobold

IMG_20200911_173711_0.thumb.jpg.73bb699bc07e65f4b8f180b0dcdaf092.jpg

 

The Bear Vanguard did need some helper supports on his pauldrons, but the misprints could still be usable for some kit bashing. The kobold's right arm also needed some help.

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@Illithar those look great.

I keep saying it, even with presupported files check and doublecheck, often you do need a few extra supports.

 

Love those models I also have those.

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7 minutes ago, Glitterwolf said:

@Illithar those look great.

I keep saying it, even with presupported files check and doublecheck, often you do need a few extra supports.

 

Love those models I also have those.

Indeed. I've gotten into the habit of checking for islands on presupported, but still learning on if or when helpers are needed. 

 

It's always the smaller bits that seem to get me, like the kobolds arm. 

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1 minute ago, Illithar said:

Indeed. I've gotten into the habit of checking for islands on presupported, but still learning on if or when helpers are needed. 

 

It's always the smaller bits that seem to get me, like the kobolds arm. 

 

I rather apply a few too many light helpers then have a failed print.

So far i've had only a few failures.

Sure, you need to remove more supports and clean up more, but with a little patience one can do that.

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19 hours ago, TheAuldGrump said:

Thomathy is currently locked in the bathroom, and not happy about it.

 

Megan's game is going, but for some reason we seem to be a bit distracted....

 

The Auld Grump

While Thomathy was trapped in the bathroom, he managed to catch a squirrel. ::o:

 

Time to call the landlord - and give Thomathy some well earned praise as a mighty hunter.

 

The Auld Gtump

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time to relearn some tricks.  after a couple of week hiatus I started printing again and now have to remember some of the tricks and trials I used to get things to print correctly again.  The spaghetti monster I found on my print bed this morning tells me I am forgetting something....

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On 9/12/2020 at 9:25 AM, PurpleLlama said:

I’ve been printing quite a bit lately for my D&D game I’m running.  
 

started with the Ashen Manticore from Artisan Guild.  First time trying their pre-supported models and everything turned out perfect.

 

Im using a new resin mixture of 50/50 anycubic grey and siraya blu.

 DCA998C1-4964-43FC-B684-4F4295448AAD.thumb.jpeg.dc39e8b202ff615402f3764f5b300df7.jpeg

 

DDB29656-F0B5-441A-83D4-2F3F710907F1.thumb.jpeg.28ab845fae50c8f0cc65b4f0dc22b185.jpeg


next up are some hero forge minis.  they had a huge sale on STL files a month ago or so.  They’re all primed, it really makes it easier to see the details on them.  The trifling ranger and Goliath barbarian are PCs.  
 

C5396406-8232-4EEF-971D-FC03E316265A.thumb.jpeg.84b2812bb012ff9f75d617736165bd4a.jpeg

 

460C5E7C-3A97-4353-B605-3ECCE6A4D122.thumb.jpeg.638f4ee42d407213f93c03fff95ac7f1.jpeg

 

E49931C4-CCD4-4AF8-ADC9-CC7ED44815FE.thumb.jpeg.c4284624ed1ffebf1d5efb4e7abd3774.jpeg

 

45F0434D-422F-4BB0-AB42-00DC4A41D43D.thumb.jpeg.355cab201e02ad8adf58a1d515b3deb2.jpeg

 

90E361FD-531E-4FC3-825D-A0C8520795C8.thumb.jpeg.3c2804da144b7fa6f2483850e3a900a1.jpeg

 

while the dwarf and ranger with his hand on his sword are NPCs.

 

0CCEF37C-70C6-4B35-85E7-87E571938EDE.thumb.jpeg.3e37395eaafa137843b0f898e732a34c.jpeg


71AF48BE-44E5-4ACC-AD7B-9D1FE376AE66.thumb.jpeg.13edf1f51d034913e1a294650af8c426.jpeg

 

7B524EC4-A7E9-4F89-BC01-026C99F1AA8B.thumb.jpeg.fcb2fcff4ea0585efa4d8ab94230d9fa.jpeg

 

8EC23C72-73AB-4C6D-A494-A4994373F358.thumb.jpeg.8869b77b3d9481c0795a54adc56ece3d.jpeg

 

 Lastly is a hobgoblin who’s an early game boss.  I have a version of him printing now riding a worg.

 

27C29F88-1C8F-46FB-A464-68DDC6B354F7.thumb.jpeg.7e64f558d0d13ebfaaef065012c45a26.jpeg

 

C48DCFC8-4677-4860-9A06-567CA331BECF.thumb.jpeg.aaa79f92db962c9a84f428d1c8ba75f7.jpeg

 

EADEC86D-46F3-4F45-B1FB-C38552968305.thumb.jpeg.c2ac6ba3f4822dcd60fbbfb735209195.jpeg

 

 

Seeing these really means I need to get my settings dialed in allot more. Those are some clean looking minis, especially the manticore. 

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That manticore is awesome.

 

I am going to need it for Eberron for MUMBLE! reasons.

 

Beginning the print on BD's not-umber- hulk.

 

Grump said something about acetone or something similar to smooth and polish the print?

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5 minutes ago, PaganMegan said:

That manticore is awesome.

 

I am going to need it for Eberron for MUMBLE! reasons.

 

Beginning the print on BD's not-umber- hulk.

 

Grump said something about acetone or something similar to smooth and polish the print?

 

Be careful with that and test it on some supports first.

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13 minutes ago, PaganMegan said:

Grump said something about acetone or something similar to smooth and polish the print?

 

I'm pretty sure this Acetone trick was for FDM prints, not resin.  Acetone can melt some plastics, which is why it was handy to smooth out the print lines from an FDM printers like the Ender.

 

For resin prints, acetone can be used for cleaning off the un-cured resin residue post print, but is also more harmful to skin and produces more fumes than alcohol.

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4 hours ago, Clearman said:

 

I'm pretty sure this Acetone trick was for FDM prints, not resin.  Acetone can melt some plastics, which is why it was handy to smooth out the print lines from an FDM printers like the Ender.

 

For resin prints, acetone can be used for cleaning off the un-cured resin residue post print, but is also more harmful to skin and produces more fumes than alcohol.

 

2 hours ago, Gadgetman! said:

It works best on ABS plstic, and not at all on PLA on FDM printers. 

FDM is what we have, I'll have to check the filament. ::): We just got the Creality CR 6 SE, and I bought a PILE of filament in different colors.

 

A Saturn is in our telescope.

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2 minutes ago, lowlylowlycook said:

Speaking of PLA, any specific advice for adhesives and primer/paint?

Superglue works wonderfully for me with PLA, I haven't painted anything I've printed yet but have heard that you want to use several coats of a filler primer and sanding between if you don't want the layer lines visible.  You can also use "bondo"/automotive body filler for large pieces like costume parts, helmets, and the like.  I think i will use my can of Tamya primer when i print terrain pieces.

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