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3D Printing General Discussion (merged)


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6 hours ago, NecroMancer said:

So my printer showed up... 

 

 

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I was suspicious when the package came because you could see where an old shipping label had been cut off.  When I opened it it was covered in uncured resin and the vat and FEP were damaged and also covered in resin.

 

And missing almost every item that is supposed to come with it.

 

 

Amazon is sending a replacement and it should be here tomorrow... the resin won't be here until tomorrow anyways so I guess all in all it could be worse. 

 

That's bad.

Bright side is you get a replacement without hassle so it's only waiting.

 

I bought mine through Gearbest in Germany.

 

 

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2 hours ago, Gadgetman! said:

 

Remember to round off the corners of those blades or they can damage the FEP.

 

 

I tend to not use them on the FEP but good advice. I use those mini squeegee things.

6 hours ago, ratsmitglied said:

 

 I'd just lift it and add supports, if you don't need to plug the hole in the bottom you don't really need a drain hole at the top either, because you can easily get in to wash it out.

 

actually, that's my approach to most things, I'll only angle if I can't avoid it

 

I've got tiny syringes that ill squirt dntr alch up & swish it around.

 

Going to print it off tomorrow when I get home, well see how it goes.

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14 hours ago, NecroMancer said:

Has anyone used the magnet flexible build plate things?  

 

Yes. I made a few comments on it in my printing thread.  For those that don't visit, the highlights are:

  • It does work, but...
  • I feel it works better for larger prints than for your 28/32mm minis.  It's a surface area issue where you only need a bit of flex to pop loose for something big, but a bit more curvature to get at something smaller.
  • I dialed in my bottom layers so they stick but aren't crazy overexposed.  As such there is still a bit of give to my skate, so when I flex the plate it is the weakest link that goes.  Ideally this is against the flex plate and what I printed just pops off, but it can be a connection point on the model itself.  Supports coming off cold can cause damage.
  • Because my bottom layers are good I don't have to use much force to get my prints off anyway, which makes the flex plate seem unnecessary.

The one I got was a direct order from Tiny Machines 3D during one of their sales.  They have a pretty good installation video on their site as well as a list of printers that need a bit of something extra in order to get the plates to work right (a z-limit adapter).

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4 minutes ago, NecroMancer said:

Couple quick questions.

 

1.  Will a regular black light work to cure the printed models?  

2.  Does anyone know where I can find settings for using the water washable resin from Elegoo?

 

You need UV light.

I use a cheap naildryer to cure the models and during summer I put them under a Mica dome and in the Sun.

 

Haven't tried washable resin yet, maybe you can find it on youtube, usually there are reviews there for such things.

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I can only answer #1

 

A normal black light will cure resin for printed models, but probably at a slower rate.  It all depends on the frequency of the light emitted by your particular lamp.  The resin for printing cures at 405nm wavelength.  When I did a quick search on black lights, some were 395nm, some didn't even list a frequency.  So, the closer to 405nm the better, and the farther away you get the slower the cure will be.

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So, I just pulled a print from my Mars....it was a figure created using HeroForge. The stl shows the figure to be 47mm tall. So, I resized it to be 30 mm, typical for hero characters in my game.

 

Sliced the file at 30 mm......

Printed said file.....

Figure prints at approximately 14 mm tall.

 

Has anyone else experienced this ? Or am I just in the minority ?

Reverend Shartan

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1 hour ago, Clearman said:

I can only answer #1

 

A normal black light will cure resin for printed models, but probably at a slower rate.  It all depends on the frequency of the light emitted by your particular lamp.  The resin for printing cures at 405nm wavelength.  When I did a quick search on black lights, some were 395nm, some didn't even list a frequency.  So, the closer to 405nm the better, and the farther away you get the slower the cure will be.

 

Now I am wondering if a grow light will cure the resin? 

 

This is what I found for a bulb at home improvement store:

 

The plant grow bulbs have a light intensity of 14.2 PAR/PPF and emit more light in the useful 449nm blue and 630nm red spectrum than regular white LED bulbs. The LEDs emits spectrum wavelengths and color for better photosynthetic response. The A19 LED Plant Grow Light offers low heat emission, low energy consumption, instant-on to full brightness and an average life of 25,000 hours / 22.8 years. 

 

It also says it has low heat emission so I wouldn't need to worry about that.  

 

It's supposed to be a bit over cast here this weekend and/or if I finish any prints at night I want to be able to cure them and am just looking for a quick cheap solution. 

 

 

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59 minutes ago, Reverend Shartan said:

So, I just pulled a print from my Mars....it was a figure created using HeroForge. The stl shows the figure to be 47mm tall. So, I resized it to be 30 mm, typical for hero characters in my game.

 

Sliced the file at 30 mm......

Printed said file.....

Figure prints at approximately 14 mm tall.

 

Has anyone else experienced this ? Or am I just in the minority ?

Reverend Shartan

I usually resize in the slicer to my desired height (or width for some things) as that seems to get the most accurate results.

 

I have had something sized as 30mm in 3d builder open in the slicer closer to 80mm, hence sizing in the slicer.

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On 2/4/2021 at 11:02 AM, haldir said:

 

I was very happy when I seen them in the last MMF sale. I only picked up a couple files but figured the base starship I got  (the round "falcon-esque" one) & a few ship upgrades was enough to get me by.

 

Grump gave me his elevator pitch almost immediately, like he already had it in the planning stage, or something. ^_^

 

His is about an uneasy truce, and uneasy alliances.

 

One hard rule, the episodes all start in media res.

 

Firefight, dog fight.

 

How compatible are the Upgrades?

 

Long and Asymetrical in particular.

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21 minutes ago, PaganMegan said:

Grump gave me his elevator pitch almost immediately, like he already had it in the planning stage, or something. ^_^

 

His is about an uneasy truce, and uneasy alliances.

 

One hard rule, the episodes all start in media res.

 

Firefight, dog fight.

 

How compatible are the Upgrades?

 

Long and Asymetrical in particular.

 

Very, as I picked up the ones made for that particular model. Mainly I wanna make the Oota-Goota from the Star Wars d6 RPG & it's similar to the Falcon but the cockpit is in the middle & the engines are turbines in the back.

 

Also, I picked up the guns upgrade. I figured the starship had enough stuff inside, I'd just go with that.

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Now to decide if I just order another from the river site and get it Monday or somewhere else and get it when I get it.

 

I was afraid of ordering through AliExpress because I thought it would be a hassle but I was so very wrong.  Think I will just order from them.

 

@Ratmaster2000 how did it work out for you?

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