Jump to content

3D Printing General Discussion (merged)


Recommended Posts

After having too many failed prints and things just not quite printing how I think they should I have decided to give up on the water washable resin.  

Got some regular grey resin from Elegoo and have a print started so we'll see if this is better.

 

The water washable works well for things that have big supports or for ones that don't require supports.  However any light supports tend to either not print or get pulled from the model while printing.  Unless you really over expose it.  

  • Like 1
  • Sad 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Far into the future, when our civilisation has ended and exists only as mere whispers of myths, Archaeologists will enter a forbitting cave and gingerly make their way into its depths.    There t

Always go with the Corgi!   Also I printed a thing! (6 sided die for scale )  

So, I was on the line with an EPAX rep the other day trying to determine if the X1-k would meet the print quality needs we are looking for to produce master copies (close but probably not quite).  Any

Posted Images

57 minutes ago, Ratmaster2000 said:

@TaleSpinnerlooking forward to your zoom seminar in the morning:) Don't look for Ratmaster2000 though:( It will be under my zoom name, Darryl Sandell

 

This was my probably my 2nd choice of classes, but alas it happens around the same time as the start of my D&D game, so I'll be missing out. Have a good time!!

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

So I had a failure overnight printing up anther Cloaker. I'm pretty sure it's LCD related, but I haven't checked my screen yet. Anyways, I'm gonna change out the lcd this week anyways but what I think I'm gonna try & improve my prints. Up to this point I was cool, I'm getting prints & they are making it to the table. When I don't have lcd problems, I get prints that if I size them right are the right size, they just aren't crisp enough. What settings should I mess with to improve that part of my prints. As I really don't want to go in start changing setting & then get loads of failures afterwards.

 

I'm kinda safe from printing figures for games, for the next couple weeks so this is probably a good time to try & do this.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Moderator
22 hours ago, haldir said:

So I had a failure overnight printing up anther Cloaker. I'm pretty sure it's LCD related, but I haven't checked my screen yet. Anyways, I'm gonna change out the lcd this week anyways but what I think I'm gonna try & improve my prints. Up to this point I was cool, I'm getting prints & they are making it to the table. When I don't have lcd problems, I get prints that if I size them right are the right size, they just aren't crisp enough. What settings should I mess with to improve that part of my prints. As I really don't want to go in start changing setting & then get loads of failures afterwards.

 

I'm kinda safe from printing figures for games, for the next couple weeks so this is probably a good time to try & do this.

 

Photon S, right?

 

The quality of print is most affected by the amount of exposure time each layer is getting.  The longer the UV light is on, the more light leaks into the area around the layer, curing resin that is not part of that layer and causing you to lose detail.  So you want the light on only enough time to solidify the layer to hold it to the previous one and no longer.  Thus you want to reduce the Layer Exposure time until the models just barely hold together.  The optimal value will be different for each resin and at different layer heights.

 

There are models out there for most machines that you can run that will show you which exposure time gives you the best prints by running though several in one print; I've frankly never bothered with those because usually my machines have been new and they hadn't made them yet for me.

 

I typically just take a small model that I know prints in my machine in a similar resin (or in that resin with not so great detail), and run prints, reducing each by 1 second on the layer exposure setting until the supports start to fail. once they fail, increase that time by 0.5 seconds and see if that prints.  

 

Most resins on the Photon S printed best for me at 4.5 second layers unless they were casting resins or other special purpose ones.  One the Mini 4K, 1.5 second layers have been good for almost all resins I have tried except for my special lost wax casting resin.

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm down to about a half kilo of filament so went to order more. Every Canadian store where I can get free shipping seems to be out of stock on most of their cheaper filaments. A few days ago the one still had lots of options. Today I loaded up my cart with a few things that were left. While I was piddling today around 2 of the colours in my basket went out of stock. Ordered enough to get free shipping and bought some other options instead of what I was planning on. Should have enough to last me a couple months unless I start printing a lot of large stuff which I had been considering.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Going to hold off on the Photon S repair until later (ie not today). I got a email from Amazon suggesting items & well one of them I actually got it. It was metal mesh screen for my 80mm fan. We have allot of dust in my house, so figured help that fan out + I didn't pick up a foldable dice tower (stuck in my cart but I must have hit later & didn't order it with the order yesterday). No worries both are arriving tomorrow.

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I had my first failed resin print.

 

Probably because I was using a new resin, and didn't change the settings.

 

Water washable resin, to save on IPA.

 

After all the worry, my results on the Mini have been much, MUCH more successful than on the CR-6.

On 3/8/2021 at 7:30 AM, TaleSpinner said:

 

Photon S, right?

 

The quality of print is most affected by the amount of exposure time each layer is getting.  The longer the UV light is on, the more light leaks into the area around the layer, curing resin that is not part of that layer and causing you to lose detail.  So you want the light on only enough time to solidify the layer to hold it to the previous one and no longer.  Thus you want to reduce the Layer Exposure time until the models just barely hold together.  The optimal value will be different for each resin and at different layer heights.

 

There are models out there for most machines that you can run that will show you which exposure time gives you the best prints by running though several in one print; I've frankly never bothered with those because usually my machines have been new and they hadn't made them yet for me.

 

I typically just take a small model that I know prints in my machine in a similar resin (or in that resin with not so great detail), and run prints, reducing each by 1 second on the layer exposure setting until the supports start to fail. once they fail, increase that time by 0.5 seconds and see if that prints.  

 

Most resins on the Photon S printed best for me at 4.5 second layers unless they were casting resins or other special purpose ones.  One the Mini 4K, 1.5 second layers have been good for almost all resins I have tried except for my special lost wax casting resin.

How good is the lost wax casting resin?

 

That is one of the more advanced courses in computer modeling at MeCA, but it looks REALLY tempting.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, PaganMegan said:

Got my first 3D modelling job.

Just Grump, but legit. Paying in some expensive resin.

 

He wants secret decoder rings. ::):

SERIOUSLY expensive resin.

 

$100 for 1 liter. ::o:

 

Then she will need the metal for casting.

 

This is assuming she can get access to the other needed tools, outside of the classes where that is a requirement. This may have to wait a year - since there are prerequisites for those classes.

 

The Auld Grump

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Moderator
19 hours ago, PaganMegan said:

 

How good is the lost wax casting resin?

 

That is one of the more advanced courses in computer modeling at MeCA, but it looks REALLY tempting.

 

The resins vary.  The Phrozen Castable Wax-like resin isn't worth a dime.  It leaves too much ash in the mold and you get a lot of pitting in the silver.

I have been using (and just printed a plate last night) BluCast X10 casting resin with added Sharpenizer.  Amazing resin.  Holds fantastic details and burns out very cleanly.  The only issue is that it is about $200 for a half liter and requires a special primer to stick to the plate.

I am soon going to be testing a bottle of PowerCast Black resin, which is supposed to have all the properties of the Blue-Cast, but is $150 a half liter, and doesn't require the sharpenizer or the primer. The YouTube reviews of it are very good.  I just got a test bottle of it.  I will likely try it out yet this month.

 

13 hours ago, TheAuldGrump said:

SERIOUSLY expensive resin.

 

$100 for 1 liter. ::o:

 

Then she will need the metal for casting.

 

This is assuming she can get access to the other needed tools, outside of the classes where that is a requirement. This may have to wait a year - since there are prerequisites for those classes.

 

The Auld Grump

 

I do not know of any casting resins that are that cheap that actually give you good casts (if you find one, let me know).  It tried the Phrozen version at that price and it was essentially throwing the money in the garbage can.  Triple that figure and you will be getting into the range of the ones worth the money.  The only two recommended by all the jewelers I know are BlueCast and PowerCast.  (Formlabs has a good one too, but it is only for the Form 2 and 3).

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...