Glitterwolf Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 7 minutes ago, haldir said: Does elephants foot occur even with supporting the heck out of the bottom? No, but I still got some warping after curing. You're talking about the guy from 3dprintingpro, he did AG's supports in te beginning. I did learn from his vids how to place proper supports. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haldir Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 1 minute ago, Glitterwolf said: No, but I still got some warping after curing. You're talking about the guy from 3dprintingpro, he did AG's supports in te beginning. I did learn from his vids how to place proper supports. I'll have to pull those pieces out of the trash & post them, as they sound like EF, but again, I supported the pieces, so who knows & yah that's him. First impressions & all from dealing with him on MMF. Basically told me the file was there, I just wasn't seeing it in the folder I downloaded......day later he updated the folder. Gee, thanks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaganMegan Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 6 hours ago, haldir said: I did notice when I was printed up the Ashen Alfar from AG, there was a file for someone's* flat style base with each figure (*someone being, what's his name (very popular youtuber, but I can't stand the guy, wears tank tops allot) that does or did the pre-supports for AG). The guy that had nude pictures of his wife in some of his videos? Guy gave me the creeps. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cygnwulf Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 15 hours ago, haldir said: Does elephants foot occur even with supporting the heck out of the bottom? anything on supports should not have an elephants foot, it only happens on the burn-in layers. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haldir Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 Ok, if the forum will allow me to post pics. I took these this morning as I was removing supports for other prints. These were printed with the flat part aka bottom in this case perpendicular to the base plate. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezler the Polychromatic Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 3 hours ago, haldir said: Ok, if the forum will allow me to post pics. I took these this morning as I was removing supports for other prints. These were printed with the flat part aka bottom in this case perpendicular to the base plate. For flat items such as this, I would suggest having it about 30 degrees from the base plate. Though the lower layers look really soft. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glitterwolf Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 As for posting pics! Resize them if they don't show, there's a limit at what you can post, I always resize so my pics are under 1 MB even and they show up fine. Flat surface printing at an angle of 30% or more is what I do. But my problem is that after washing and curing, after a while larger flat objects still start to warp. Any ideas on that? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cygnwulf Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 (edited) 18 hours ago, haldir said: Ok, if the forum will allow me to post pics. I took these this morning as I was removing supports for other prints. These were printed with the flat part aka bottom in this case perpendicular to the base plate. hokay, so you say perpendicular but based on your pictures I think you meant parallel, and yeah, that tends to happen with large flat surfaces parallel to the build plate. The mushy ness is because the part that prints attached to the supports on the first layer of the item is very thin and droops some, so when it raises and goes back down, it goes down slightly bowed. The best thing I've found for keeping detail is to try to make sure that surfaces that point toward the build plate ("Bottom" faces in the slicer that are the first ones to print) have the fewest or smallest possible amount of surface parallel with the build plate. If you can align an edge and have at least a 30 degree or so slope running away from it, then you can go with fin supports to keep the edges sharp and crisp. Ryobinator has a writeup on MMF under "Setting Up Your 3D Printed Dice Files for Printing" that covers an extreme implementation of this, and it's based on this video from rev chumley https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXX-zpRYDS0&t=0s Edited January 20 by Cygnwulf 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezler the Polychromatic Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 Well, as an update to the NFEP...............there isn't any. Carrier picked it up on Tuesday, absolutely no movement or anything and the delivery date was moved 3 times. Had to request a refund for it through Amazon. 1 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olaf the Stout Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 That would suck when you can’t print until you get an FEP. I try and have replacements on hand to avoid that problem. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezler the Polychromatic Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 8 minutes ago, Olaf the Stout said: That would suck when you can’t print until you get an FEP. I try and have replacements on hand to avoid that problem. Fortunately I have another resin vat to use.There's FEP replacements I can get, but I was wanting to try the NFEP instead. Not sure if I should try the same order again. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olaf the Stout Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 4 minutes ago, Pezler the Polychromatic said: Fortunately I have another resin vat to use.There's FEP replacements I can get, but I was wanting to try the NFEP instead. Not sure if I should try the same order again. Yeah, I’m curious to try it as well, but they’re pricey to get here in Australia as they all ship from the US. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cygnwulf Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 I tried Nfep on my original photon once, I couldn't tell any difference, but that could have been user error so I don't really have any bad things to say about it. I haven't yet tried it on my Saturn. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haldir Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 I feel like this guy sometimes when I have to start the post-printing process for my printer. As far as Nfep over fep. I've noticed quite a bit of difference but also helps I have some fantastic settings as well. It's been awhile since I've had a failure (crosses fingers. throws salt over the left shoulder, dances counter-clockwise looking east as the sun comes up. etc etc etc). other then I didn't like the print & tossed it. If anything it's definitely better then the stock sheet that came with my printer. @Pezler the Polychromatic can you get this one delivered? Amazon - EPAX nFEP Film Sheet 200 x 140mm Thickness 0.125mm for E6/X1 and Other 5.5/6 inch UV Resin 3D Printers, Pack of 3 Films If so, this is what I use for my Phrozen mini 4k. Hopefully you can at least try a sheet out to see the difference. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratmaster2000 Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 I hope this is okay to ask in tis post. So, I want to mount a FDM print I did to a wood base because for some odd reason the floor of the model came out REALLY thin, I mean thinner then I have ever seen. So, I want5 to mount it onto a wood base to give it some stability, what do you all recommend to use? I am pretty sure super glue would not cut it, but what would be best? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.