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33 minutes ago, Pezler the Polychromatic said:

Garinc3D on Cults3D, searching Fireball Wizard should bring it up. The video attached to it is hilarious.

 

Thanks!

 

I may have my wizard pregen for RCon this year. ::D:

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So I've praised my friend's resin printer settings on here many times over, so yesterday when we talking about ReaperCon I asked her if those settings would work in a bigger plate printer. At first she said she didn't know, but I told her I was using them in my 4k mini. She said well my printer is a LCD & not Mono. ha ha. All this time I've using these settings & I could have tweaked the exposure. I went ahead & knocked that down to 2 secs (it was at 6) & I'm re-slicing up some files I had previously did up already. While I don't mind the existing prints, roughly 3 to 4 hrs for a plate of medium or small size minis. The larger stuff is where it climbs into the 6 hrs or more. I just did up a huge mini that I'm able to get on my plate & knocked that down in half for printing time. Same with a rearing unicorn, thou that one I lowered it slightly, but it still rises up over the mediums I have on the plate with it. Plus, hey if I can knock the 2 to 4 prints in half, so be it! Bonus is I'll be able to save my lcd allot longer as well.

 

Looking forward to seeing how these will print out now.

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1 hour ago, haldir said:

So I've praised my friend's resin printer settings on here many times over, so yesterday when we talking about ReaperCon I asked her if those settings would work in a bigger plate printer. At first she said she didn't know, but I told her I was using them in my 4k mini. She said well my printer is a LCD & not Mono. ha ha. All this time I've using these settings & I could have tweaked the exposure. I went ahead & knocked that down to 2 secs (it was at 6) & I'm re-slicing up some files I had previously did up already. While I don't mind the existing prints, roughly 3 to 4 hrs for a plate of medium or small size minis. The larger stuff is where it climbs into the 6 hrs or more. I just did up a huge mini that I'm able to get on my plate & knocked that down in half for printing time. Same with a rearing unicorn, thou that one I lowered it slightly, but it still rises up over the mediums I have on the plate with it. Plus, hey if I can knock the 2 to 4 prints in half, so be it! Bonus is I'll be able to save my lcd allot longer as well.

 

Looking forward to seeing how these will print out now.

You’ll likely find your prints will be less brittle now too.

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11 hours ago, haldir said:

So I've praised my friend's resin printer settings on here many times over, so yesterday when we talking about ReaperCon I asked her if those settings would work in a bigger plate printer. At first she said she didn't know, but I told her I was using them in my 4k mini. She said well my printer is a LCD & not Mono. ha ha. All this time I've using these settings & I could have tweaked the exposure. I went ahead & knocked that down to 2 secs (it was at 6) & I'm re-slicing up some files I had previously did up already. While I don't mind the existing prints, roughly 3 to 4 hrs for a plate of medium or small size minis. The larger stuff is where it climbs into the 6 hrs or more. I just did up a huge mini that I'm able to get on my plate & knocked that down in half for printing time. Same with a rearing unicorn, thou that one I lowered it slightly, but it still rises up over the mediums I have on the plate with it. Plus, hey if I can knock the 2 to 4 prints in half, so be it! Bonus is I'll be able to save my lcd allot longer as well.

 

Looking forward to seeing how these will print out now.

 

Elegoo Mars here ( yeah older one I know) I have my exposure at this ( Pic 1)

Do you think it might help to lower that to 6 or 4 then?

Would it be alright then, and how does it help to make a print less brittle like @Olaf the Stoutsaid?

 

On the web I also found these recommendations ( Pic 2)

 

Alwasy looking to get better prints in shorter time.

 

I still print with Elegoo Grey, I heard that ABS like Resin makes for stronger minis/less brittle?

Is this correct/anyone has experience with that?

 

 

 

 

Schermafbeelding 2023-02-19 093003.jpg

821744086_resinsettings.jpg.1605caf23b15596508fe2a44c9883a04.jpg

Edited by Glitterwolf
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My understanding is that overly long exposure times can make the resin more brittle. Basically, you want the exposure time long enough to get sharp details, but no longer than that.

 

Plus shorter exposure times mean quicker print times and your screen will last longer too.

 

Edit: but I see from the pic you posted, older printers need longer exposure times. I’ve only had a Mars 3 and Saturn 2, so exposure times of 3-ish seconds are just what I’m used to.

Edited by Olaf the Stout
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Well sheep. I should have known this was going to happen, woke up tonight & before I put my shoes on, checked the printer & I had a empty plate. Yesterday morning I setup my printer before we went to the store & when it was done I totally forgot to replace the build plate,  so yah.

 

I think I'm gonna go back to what my friend setting were originally.  I don't really have the brittleness that @Olaf the Stout described, so I'll take longer prints over cleanup any day.

 

Guess what 8ll be doing when I get home this morning....sigh.

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Always a bit worried about the "next prints after" & tbh, I should have just attempted a calibration print vs printing up a plate of minis but I switched back to my friend's settings before I tried to lower the layer exposure & sliced & printed up a plate of minis I needed for this Weds.....SUCCESS!!!

 

Oddly, I think the sliced prints time needed, dropped a little with this one. Thou, huge size minis are still in the 5+ hrs range. Again, I'll take that over printing a empty plate of minis anyday. After peeling off the bad prints off the nfep (which was weird, as I could just peel off each piece without any tool), there was a dent on the nfep, but I did a 91% IA test & there was no leaks, so I let that dry out & then refilled with my resin. Nfep, well worth the investment over regular fep sheets!

 

Back in business!!

 

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Ok, Tip of the Day:

 

Don't start the post process stuff of a print, then go get something to eat. ha ha.....

 

Left my plate in my Wash N Cure for oh 20-30 mins now. Thou, I find if I leave the prints in the Denatured Alcohol a little bit longer it helps with support removal.

 

 

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Gotta love getting a 10+ dollar deal on resin! Thou, you only have 10 minutes to claim this deal was a bit much.....

 

Big River Site, mainly went to see how much my cart was without anther 2 lt of Sunlu grey resin was & clicked on the link for said resin & a -10 dollar discount was applied to it, so into the cart it went & then of course the countdown timer started, ha ha.

 

Either way, getting anther bottle of 2 lt Sunlu grey & also a clear resin 1 lt bottle of Elegoo & some hobby drill bits. Sad that the 1.7mm drill bits were more then a set of mm drill bits, ha ha.

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 A question, I'm not sure if this possible  but here it goes.

 

Most Patreons give round or oval bases.

I use squares.

 

Is it possible to change a round/oval base in a simple program like Windows 3D Builder to a square version?

Reshape it a little?

 

I'm not going for expert level stuff like Z-brush etc...

 

Thoughts?

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On 2/26/2023 at 8:27 PM, Glitterwolf said:

 A question, I'm not sure if this possible  but here it goes.

 

Most Patreons give round or oval bases.

I use squares.

 

Is it possible to change a round/oval base in a simple program like Windows 3D Builder to a square version?

Reshape it a little?

 

I'm not going for expert level stuff like Z-brush etc...

 

Thoughts?

Assuming the bases are solid and not just the edges like your commercial blank bases it should be easy. I would be inclined to do it in Slic3r: rotate the base, cut, repeat. Or if you don't care about the sides being angled you don't need to do so much rotating.

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We got the replacement part for our Mercury X.

The original was plastic, the replacement is cast aluminum.

The original had one set screw, the replacement has two.

It was WAY past warantee, and Elegoo replaced the part anyway.

Would have been nice to not have the problem, but Elegoo definitely pit it to right.

 

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They're growing....  While I've had those CNC parts for a v2.4 that I won for a bit now, I've officially paid for my LDO 350mm kit, so it's a lot more real now... 

 

Kind of looking forward to building it, although coming up with a name will take a bit longer than it did for my Trident.  Trident is called Foxyfluff, because foxyfluffs are everything... (and it was my first printer). 

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