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3D Printing General Discussion (merged)


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9 hours ago, Olaf the Stout said:

What have you found to be the most significant recent improvement(s)

 

Klipper's Input Shaping is delightful dark magic that works wonders...  Not always enabled in the pre-builts though, but it's super handy. 

 

9 hours ago, Olaf the Stout said:

You can swap the ACF on the Saturn 3 tank for a FEP/FEP 2.0.

That's the plan if I go Saturn 3 Ultra, change the ACF for PFA.  Odds are leaning mainly towards the Saturn 2 though, since it regularly goes for half the cost of a 3 Ultra here in Canada. 

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19 hours ago, Olaf the Stout said:

What have you found to be the most significant recent improvement(s)

You can swap the ACF on the Saturn 3 tank for a FEP/FEP 2.0.

On the FDM printers, I love the direct drive print heads like on my newest Anycubic Kobra. The biggest problems I had encountered with my previous Enders were with the Bowden tubes and feeding. Speeds have drastically improved as well. To make more detailed prints you can swap to a .2 mm nozzle. Now this will slow down you prints but I can only imagine how detail will improve our 28mm figure prints. You will still get better detail for the best minis using a resin printer at this time.

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12 minutes ago, Corsair said:

On the FDM printers, I love the direct drive print heads like on my newest Anycubic Kobra. The biggest problems I had encountered with my previous Enders were with the Bowden tubes and feeding. Speeds have drastically improved as well. To make more detailed prints you can swap to a .2 mm nozzle. Now this will slow down you prints but I can only imagine how detail will improve our 28mm figure prints. You will still get better detail for the best minis using a resin printer at this time.

What does a direct drive print head do differently to what was used before?

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1 minute ago, Olaf the Stout said:

What does a direct drive print head do differently to what was used before?

There are no Bowden tubes, the filament feeds from above, directly into the print head. There is no distant traction pushing the filament into the head via the tube. I will never have another printer with Bowden tube feed ever again.

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13 hours ago, Olaf the Stout said:

What does a direct drive print head do differently to what was used before?

It's also more accurate with filament feeding, because the path between the extruder gears (the things that feed the filament into the hotend) and the hotend are measured in millimeters, while for a Bowden setup it's in inches (or even feet).  This means retraction can be a lot smaller (they're typically under 1mm, versus 3-5mm on a Bowden), and you don't have to worry about filament flexing within the Bowden tube either.  You are also able to apply stronger forces when extruding because the path is so much shorter. 

 

There are downsides to direct drive, with the biggest one being your toolhead increases in weight as the extruder motor and associated parts are added on to the toolhead, but in a lot of cases this is seen as something to keep note of, not an actual issue, and with careful design it can be mitigated.  Some of the fastest printers in the benchy races are Bowden due to this lower weight - it's a lot easier to fling 200g of toolhead at 50k+ accelerations than it is 400g.

 

With Bowden tube lengths between the two, I'll use my Voron Trident as an example.  In its stock configuration (direct drive), the 4x2mm tube connecting my extruder and hotend is about 45mm long, whereas if it were setup the way the Ender 3 is with the extruder mounted on the frame it would be over a meter in length. 

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I put down my first beige/flesh colored resin pieces on to the tabletop last night. Yah, that color is not gonna be a print & play type pieces unlike the light primer grey color ones. I need to at least throw a wash on to the pieces.

 

Weather is suppose be nice for the weekend here, so I may have to do that, as most of the minis for the next adventure have been printed out using the flesh resin.

 

 

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2 hours ago, haldir said:

I put down my first beige/flesh colored resin pieces on to the tabletop last night. Yah, that color is not gonna be a print & play type pieces unlike the light primer grey color ones. I need to at least throw a wash on to the pieces.

 

Weather is suppose be nice for the weekend here, so I may have to do that, as most of the minis for the next adventure have been printed out using the flesh resin.

 

 

I find navy grey best if you want to use unpainted, but white/light grey tends to print better in terms of being much less brittle (but is terrible for seeing unpainted details, which makes support removal difficult at times).

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1 hour ago, Olaf the Stout said:

I find navy grey best if you want to use unpainted, but white/light grey tends to print better in terms of being much less brittle (but is terrible for seeing unpainted details, which makes support removal difficult at times).

 

Sunlu beige was available the first time I took advantage of a mega deal from them, as they were out of light grey aka primer grey & the color has stuck for me. It's not white & it's not a dark color so when I do eventually try & get paint on things, it'll be easy to prime up.

 

I noticed Tuesday I needed some spider victims-sac bundle scenery pieces to complete the giant web scene so these were printed. I didn't get around to doing anything with them before last night's game, so thus fleshy beige color pieces were on the table.

 

Players didn't mind, but it bothered me, so I'm gonna at try to get washes onto pieces before Weds.

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On 3/13/2024 at 5:09 PM, PaganMegan said:

Looked at the Hey Gear system.

Looks really good, way overpriced, with way too many proprietary supplies.

 

One of those "great, but not at those prices" items that our hobby is prone to.

I think Once In a Six Side did a review of them and came to the same conclusion.

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