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Squirrel knight chess piece printed fine.  So looks like my leveling is good enough.  I like the magnetic heated bed.  I can pull the maginetic mat off and peel it away from the print easily enough.  Now to start the search for files to print.  I have the basic dragon lock set from Fat Dragon Games from somewhere (Bones KS reward?) so I'll most likely start with that.

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6 hours ago, haldir said:

 

My wife is the same way. Bring in a primered mini or spray painted model part & she is "That stinks!". Cleaning,  not a problem.

 

So my PCs are gonna encounter some awakened trees. I have the files, I just need to get my printer (ender3) going again. This may be the motivation I need. I see down the road they'll face 2 Bone Nagas. Prepainted BN are e expensive (30+ per st least). Yah again motivation!

 

Note if you print the dog test file with the starter filament, it wont print all the way. Choose the squirrel chess pieces.

And yet, the distaff side has no problem with nail polish remover that has the full strength version of the volatile elements used in lacquer base paints.

GEM

2 hours ago, Dilvish the Deliverer said:

Squirrel knight chess piece printed fine.  So looks like my leveling is good enough.  I like the magnetic heated bed.  I can pull the maginetic mat off and peel it away from the print easily enough.  Now to start the search for files to print.  I have the basic dragon lock set from Fat Dragon Games from somewhere (Bones KS reward?) so I'll most likely start with that.

Could you do some work in progress postings of those?

I think we both supported the same KS and I haven't received the printer I sponsored at the same time yet.  But the printer is very close to production and fulfillment as I write this.

Seems that when you change one spec. a lot of other things have to be rejiggered as well, near ad-infinitum.

GEM

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4 hours ago, Dilvish the Deliverer said:

Squirrel knight chess piece printed fine.  So looks like my leveling is good enough.  I like the magnetic heated bed.  I can pull the maginetic mat off and peel it away from the print easily enough.  Now to start the search for files to print.  I have the basic dragon lock set from Fat Dragon Games from somewhere (Bones KS reward?) so I'll most likely start with that.

 

The DragonLock files print pretty nicely (I have a few), in terms of finding files to print, thingiverse is a good starting point, but there are many, many more sites out there - if you are after military vehicles (ww1-> modern) Wargaming3D also has a good range.

 

It really depends what you are looking for!

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About resin printers...   

Yeah, it can stink, and it's probably not too good for you, either.   

 

I don't know the Photon, but haven't heard anything bad about it. 

 

Mine's a Kudo3D Bean (build area 60x120x160mm ) but Kudo3D also have larger ones. 

Their HD version of their Titan 2 has an X/Y resolution of 12/25uM.   My Bean only does 47/47uM... 

 

Kudo3d-3D-Print-Wicker-Furniture-Set-using-3DSR-UHR-Resin-1.jpg.634e3dbc82d0ca009e27940485f5e629.jpg

 

That's what you can do with a HD printer. 

Unfortunately, I can't recommend them at this moment because their support is currently like a mermaid's legs; a myth on a myth...    

 

I have 2 resin vats for my printer. Not just because it allows me to change between different resins from one print to another, but also because they have a Teflon film as the bottom, and that is not only a pain to replace, but gets damaged way to easily. 

 

If your Resin printer have similar vats, get a stack of films and learn to replace them.    

 

I don't pour the resin back in the vat immediately. If I don't plan to print something for a few days, then yes, I do it. 

And when I do pour it back, I use a disposable filter of the type used by spray painters to filter their paints. (similar to coffee machine filters in size)   

And I splash the resin around a bit with the rubber scraper after a print to find loose bits of support and so on. Because if that ends up under the print ed before the first layer of a print, it will probably damage the film, or even the LCD in the printer. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Gadgetman! said:

I have 2 resin vats for my printer. Not just because it allows me to change between different resins from one print to another, but also because they have a Teflon film as the bottom, and that is not only a pain to replace, but gets damaged way to easily. 

 

If your Resin printer have similar vats, get a stack of films and learn to replace them.    

 

I don't pour the resin back in the vat immediately. If I don't plan to print something for a few days, then yes, I do it. 

And when I do pour it back, I use a disposable filter of the type used by spray painters to filter their paints. (similar to coffee machine filters in size)   

And I splash the resin around a bit with the rubber scraper after a print to find loose bits of support and so on. Because if that ends up under the print ed before the first layer of a print, it will probably damage the film, or even the LCD in the printer. 

 

All of this, very, very much! I have a very similar process after a print. What I have found with leaving resin in the vat is that capillary action means that the resin actually leaks out of the vat after a few days - and because even if I plan to print in a day or so this doesn't always happen due to other commitments.

 

I have also found with pigmented resins that the pigment settles in the vat - and in fact the only time I've had failed prints in when this has occurred.

 

In terms of resin, most printers will work quite happily with any resin that cures at the right range, so you aren't limited to only the resin made by the manufacturer of the printer. For me this is good because there is a local resin manufacturer that sells suitable resin which means I'm not relying on ebay and aliexpress to get resin - and it's normally here within a week.

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40 minutes ago, ratsmitglied said:

All of this, very, very much! I have a very similar process after a print. What I have found with leaving resin in the vat is that capillary action means that the resin actually leaks out of the vat after a few days - and because even if I plan to print in a day or so this doesn't always happen due to other commitments.

 

I have also found with pigmented resins that the pigment settles in the vat - and in fact the only time I've had failed prints in when this has occurred.

 

In terms of resin, most printers will work quite happily with any resin that cures at the right range, so you aren't limited to only the resin made by the manufacturer of the printer. For me this is good because there is a local resin manufacturer that sells suitable resin which means I'm not relying on ebay and aliexpress to get resin - and it's normally here within a week.

Just be careful. There are some resins that even though they cure at the right wavelength, require the higher power output of a laser unit and won’t work on the led light source of the Photon. And it suck having a bottle of high dollar resin sitting on the shelf you can’t use. 

 

Great recommendation on the second vat Gadgetman—- I should get one for my Photon. 

 

Here is a Dalek from Thingiverse I printed on the Photon. One of the first pieces I printed. Probably 2” tall total. I sliced it into e pieces for the print. 

 

AC9408A8-1F5C-489C-9C9E-AADA293DF2DB.jpeg.7e67890ed598070a214a52fde910a657.jpeg

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5 hours ago, Green Eyed Monster said:

And yet, the distaff side has no problem with nail polish remover that has the full strength version of the volatile elements used in lacquer base paints.

GEM

Could you do some work in progress postings of those?

I think we both supported the same KS and I haven't received the printer I sponsored at the same time yet.  But the printer is very close to production and fulfillment as I write this.

Seems that when you change one spec. a lot of other things have to be rejiggered as well, near ad-infinitum.

GEM

I'll give it a shot.  I don't always think ahead and take pictures but I should be able to manage a running commentary.  Should I keep it in this thread or start a new one?

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I always store my vats in airtight 'tupperware' boxes. (Not really tupperware, but... squarish, with rubber seal) between uses. whether they're full of resin or not. Got to keep the dust out. 

And I've seen the 'leakage' in the bottom of the box.  

 

Please note that resin printers lift the print high enough to 'tear' it off the teflon film while printing, and that this can cause a suction force. 

Printing a cup or other open'topped object doesn't leave a lot of surface area to contact the teflon film, but the suction can be rather damaging, so it's often a good idea to tilt parts slighly and produce a few supports for it.    

 

Printing everything in the exact middle of the vat is a bad idea. Because that will wear out that spot in the teflon so much faster....

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10 hours ago, KruleBear said:

Just be careful. There are some resins that even though they cure at the right wavelength, require the higher power output of a laser unit and won’t work on the led light source of the Photon. And it suck having a bottle of high dollar resin sitting on the shelf you can’t use. 

 

That is very true - the brand I get I get the 'rapid' resin which is designed to print at the lower outputs.

 

Apparently the regular resin for that brand will still cure on a Photon, you just have to have 1min+ for each layer.

 

So the takeaway is to check the printer compatibility BEFORE buying any resin :poke:

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as another "non-technical caveman" I can tell you that FDM (filament) printers (which are all you need for the terrain) are easy enough to operate and ... probably cheaper than the average forumite's pledge for Bones V ;)

 

As far as I know, there is a special price promotion for the Ender 3 right now ...

Edited by Knight of the Dinner Table
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2 hours ago, Knight of the Dinner Table said:

as another "non-technical caveman" I can tell you that FDM (filament) printers (which are all you need for the terrain) are easy enough to operate and ... probably cheaper than the average forumite's pledge for Bones V ;)

 

As far as I know, there is a special price promotion for the Ender 3 right now ...

 

But do those printers print High Quality?

I do not want a print with all the grains visible.

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The higher the quality, the longer the print. With terrain, we might be talking about 20hours plus then. With FDM printers, there will always be some lines visible - which I can live with. I'm not sure resin printers (which start also below $300) can print such big parts and whether that's really viable. I'm quite ok with the terrain I've printed with my Anycubic Mega3 and what I see printed by an Ender looks great, too.

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5 hours ago, Glitterwolf said:

 

But do those printers print High Quality?

I do not want a print with all the grains visible.

Have you seen my terrain prints over in my WIP?  They are all with an Ender3 that is at a half decent tune.  I've seen pictures that blow mine away for detail.  But there will always be fine lines on the FDM prints.  Going to finer nozzles reduces them even more but slows the printing down massively.

I'm just waiting until I move to order the sample kit of Badger's new 3D PRIME product.  Sample photos look like it does a great job of filling the layer lines in.  Looking forward to trying that out.

 

Also, got my bowden tube and couplings finally swapped out last night, so back to printing again.

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1 hour ago, Jasper_the_2nd said:

Have you seen my terrain prints over in my WIP?  They are all with an Ender3 that is at a half decent tune.  I've seen pictures that blow mine away for detail.  But there will always be fine lines on the FDM prints.  Going to finer nozzles reduces them even more but slows the printing down massively.

I'm just waiting until I move to order the sample kit of Badger's new 3D PRIME product.  Sample photos look like it does a great job of filling the layer lines in.  Looking forward to trying that out.

 

Also, got my bowden tube and couplings finally swapped out last night, so back to printing again.

 

Since I'm a technical dweeb....is this a user friendly thing?

I mean I'm bad at adjusting stuff, cleaning stuff from machinery or replacing parts.

 

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