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Knight of the Dinner Table

[SPLIT] 3d printers

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Wrecked the FEP film in my resin tray today.  

 

I had a failed print, and when I tried to scrape off the bits that was stuck in the FEP, I tore it. It's something that can happen. 

I use plastic 'razor blades' (you can find a holder and a 100pack pretty cheap on eBay), and I normally round off the corners on the blads, but I had recently mounted a new blade in the holder and forgotten to fix the corner, and it dug down into the plastic film. 

 

These blades are good for removing gaskets from aluminium engine blocks and similar, also, so they may be a good idea to get hold of. 

 

Note that not all FEP film can be mounted any which way. At least for some printers the film must be mounted with one specific side up. And it's not marked... 

Kudo3D, the makers of my printer, recommend using a whiteboard marker. Draw a line on the film, and see it flow together to a thin stripe. Do the same on the other side also. The side with the most dramatic effect is the one that's supposed to be 'up' towards the resin and the print plate. 

(They're messing about with surface tension and surface friction. It's a fun effect, really)

Don't do the test with a sharpie, though... 

 

It can be seen at 1m45seconds in this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gIAVl5Udqqk

 

It's an old video. We don't use the sealant any more but have a rubber gasket between the film and the captive nuts. There's the same amount of screws, still, though. 

I use a 'Wowstick' electric screwdriver.

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I think I figured out what is causing an increasing number of failed prints on my Resin printer...

Both my resin vats are showing distortion from heat. And when there's nearly a 1mm gap between the FEP film and the glass plate it rests on, at one end of the vat, yeah... 

 

I could buy the alumpinium 'Power vat' but that's a $99 expense. And it'll most likely require adjusting settings because the manufacturer claims that it will speed up printing. And nowhere on the site do they explain which settings.  

(It may use the same FEP film as the original vat, but that's not mentioned, either. )   

 

Elf that!  

 

They have until my next paycheck arrives, to put up proper documentation, or I go buy a different printer, and butcher this one for usable parts. (There's a LCD, a UV LED light source, a stepper motor, a Raspberry Pi, and even an Arduino in there.)

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I forget which printer you have?

 

also.. having a bit of a science experiment going on right now.  Got in a hurry and grabbed the resin bottle that was standing beside the printer to refill the vat... forgetting that the bottle I grabbed was elegoo transperant and what was left in the vat was syria fast grey....

I started the print anyway. I have no clue if this is going to work or not but I figure, can't unscramble the egg, might as well see what happens...

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My printer is the Kudo3d Bean.   

It was a kickstarter a couple of years ago. 

 

Here's the video from the KS

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dzNw0dN-rck

 

The vat you see is a prototype of some sort, and the print plate is also different on the finished version. 

 

If I had a block of 20mm aluminium, I might have tried to cut my own vat, but... 

 

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No. 

Support is nonexistent. 

There's no way of knowing which Resin vat comes with it.

It could have the original, with silicone sealant around the FEP. 

It could have an upgraded tray, with rubber gasket.(Gasket is available in the shop if you damage it or want to upgrade an older vat) 

Or it could come with the aluminium 'Power vat'. I doubt this, though.

And you really want that vat because the original(or updated) plastic tray WILL deform sooner or later. 

 

And then there's te absolute lack of documentation on the power vat.

 

Why is that so important?  

Because of the 'peel off'. When it lifts the print plate it needs to pull the resin off of the FEP layer. On the original vat that is helped by the vat being mounted with a hinge design that allows the vat to be lifted slightly until it's at an angle. That's not happening with the Power vat, so you need to adjust how far and how fast you lift to get it to peel in a controlled manner. 

 

Also, this printer does not have any air filtration system. Resin vapors are only contained(imperfectly) inside the plastic top cover. 

This was good enough back then, but not any more. 

 

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7 hours ago, Humansquish said:

I'm looking at getting a resin printer and the Bean was on my list of possibilities. Would you recommend it?

 

If your wanting a cheap printer, Anycubic has a "starter" printer right now, the Photon Zero. It runs for around 160 bucks or so. Check it out on their site.

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The Zero has an X/Y resolution of 0.1155mm, and Z-axis resolution of 0.1/0.2mm. 

 

The Photon and most other Resin printers do X/Y of 0.047(or thereabout) and Z-axis as low as 0.05mm, or even 0.025mm on the Photon. 

So the Zero is quite a distance from the Photon or equivalents, but it's still A LOT better than what can be achieved with a filament type printer. 

It won't print at he quality that companies such as Impact! uses, but then again, neither does the Photon. 

 

It doesn't print as large as the Photon, or even the Bean, but if the idea is to print minis, it's a pretty good size, really. 

 

For the price, 'It will Print'... 

 

In fact, most could even afford 2... 

 

Sorry, been binging on 'Forged in FIre'

 

EDIT: I just might snag one myself...

Edited by Gadgetman!
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23 minutes ago, Gadgetman! said:

For the price, 'It will Print'...

Even with out the reference, I read that in Doug's voice...  :winkthumbs:

11 hours ago, Humansquish said:

I'm looking at getting a resin printer and the Bean was on my list of possibilities. Would you recommend it?

I have only tried the Mars from Elegoo and have been very happy with it, despite a run of ruined prints early on.  Support from the company is decent (they are quick to send out bits and community seems pretty happy with that side of things).  Their software Chitubox has some issues, but I think most of the support/slicing software out there does to varying levels and there are enough folks using he Mars and chitubox that Youtube and such are full of guides and how-tos. 

 

Just my 2 cents.  I have not tried any of the other machines out there and went with the Mars based on comments from users here earlier in this thread and the price vs what I was looking to do with it. 

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Had another ruined print from the Ender 3 today.  Looks like a partial clog or something.  Annoying as I don't want to spend a bunch of time on it right now, so I think I'll let it sit for a few days.

Probably a bunch of maint I should be doing on it to with how much I've been using it lately.

 

Last of the stuff I ordered for my Mars should arrive tomorrow (not the IPA, that was a complete fraud and ebay has already refunded my money).  Hopefully my printer will actually ship tomorrow...

 

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Now's your change to install those cable chains, install a new control board, and all those other upgrades that have been waiting.  :-D

 

I also hope my filament delivers next week as listed.  I'm down to around the last 200g and have several things I want to print.

Edited by Clearman
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7 minutes ago, SamuraiJack said:

91 and 99 IPA were in stock on the river site today

Unfortunately not on the Canadian version yet...maybe next week.

 

1 hour ago, Clearman said:

Now's your change to install those cable chains, install a new control board, and all those other upgrades that have been waiting.  :-D

 

I also hope my filament delivers next week as listed.  I'm down to around the last 200g and have several things I want to print.

Cable chains are already on.  New board isn't even ordered yet.....
But should probably check belt tensions and stuff.

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I hacked away at the outer edge of one of my resin vats, and managed to get it to lay flat on the printer. So I ran a test print...

 

There was 'foggy' areas, and when examinining earlier failed prints, I find the same on those, too. And I find it in both the clear and the 'tough' resin prints, so it means it's independent of which resin vat I use. That leaves the LCD. It didn't have any dirt on it(I clean it now and then), so it had to be the LCD itself.

 

A new LCD is $70. A power vat is $100. That's the same cost as a Zero... 

I need a printer that I can trust a bit more than I need the slightly larger size of the Bean. 

 

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