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Knight of the Dinner Table

[SPLIT] 3d printers

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1 hour ago, Glitterwolf said:

My desk is swarmed by printed minis!

Anyone has a clue how this came to be?

 

Do these printers keep printing on their own when we're away or something?

 

As long as you don't paint their eyes first..........

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9 hours ago, Kangaroorex said:

test hedgehog completed.  Test dog completed.  now we are trying a bed sized print on the ender to check bed level.  its a 4 part circular temple.  Makes a great mini staging area. 

17 hour print though.

Prusa is 10 hours into a 30 hour print job of a starship. 

 

On a complete side note:  the ender head runs a lot cooler than my prusa.  i have to be at least at 210 (preferably 215) for the prusa to print but the ender is doing just fine at 200.  Just different calibrations or something else?

 

tomorrow aught to see some interesting progress.  Very happy with the weekend.  Hoping the rest of vacation goes as well

 

Thanks again everyone for your help and patience.  Because of you guys i have 2 running printers.

 

 

honestly, I'd be curious if you could get a laser thermometer to read on the nozzle of your prussa at 210 and your ender at 200 and see how different they actually are.  210-215 for most PLA seems really hot, and if the same filament is printing on the ender at 200, I'd wonder if your thermistor is either not tight or in a bad location or just not very good on one of them.

 

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4 hours ago, Cygnwulf said:

honestly, I'd be curious if you could get a laser thermometer to read on the nozzle of your prussa at 210 and your ender at 200 and see how different they actually are.  210-215 for most PLA seems really hot, and if the same filament is printing on the ender at 200, I'd wonder if your thermistor is either not tight or in a bad location or just not very good on one of them.

 

Maybe it is now.  The PLA I have (from 2016) is all marked with print temperatures from 210-220 deg C.  Maybe the formulations have changed over the last 4 years (I cannot believe how much time has passed, I did not realize until I was looking at filament on Amazon that the last time i had bought filament was in 2016.)  I am going to guess that there has been a formulation change.  i tried a quick print on the ender at 200 with the old filament and print was very stringy.  I increased the temperature to 210 and the print was much better.

 

on the new filament for the Ender I was running at 200 deg c without any problems

Edited by Kangaroorex
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I think i might drop out of the CR-6 KS.. as much as I want terrain I think I'm more likely to want to print busts and minis first.. 

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There's been a bunch of reviews for the CR-6 popping up on youtube. After watching them I'm planning on sticking with it. I wasn't sure it was worth the extra cost over upgrading an Ender 3 but have decided it is. Not sure how much buying it will impact my Bones 5 pledge because I haven't finished paying for everything I want in it yet. Not sure I can afford nearly $1000 canadian on hobby things this year.

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Oh, that is so frustrating.  3/4 through  30 hour print i suffered a power blip.  the ender print may recover but the prusa has no recovery function.  going to try and figure out what layer it was on and see if i can modify the print to make a second half

 

 

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14 minutes ago, Kangaroorex said:

Oh, that is so frustrating.  3/4 through  30 hour print i suffered a power blip.  the ender print may recover but the prusa has no recovery function.  going to try and figure out what layer it was on and see if i can modify the print to make a second half

 

 

I have a small UPS for my Ender 3, for just that reason.  Which reminds me, I need to take it down to the store room and plug the Ender into it.

The restart will work in the Ender 3, but if the power is off for too long and the bed cools down, the print may pop off the bed. (at least with glass)

 

Hopefully you can figure out the approximate layer and recover.  I've had to do that once or twice.  When I think I have it I just print out a few layers and see if it matches up well with what is printed. Then print the whole remaining piece.

 

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3 minutes ago, Jasper_the_2nd said:

I have a small UPS for my Ender 3, for just that reason.  Which reminds me, I need to take it down to the store room and plug the Ender into it.

The restart will work in the Ender 3, but if the power is off for too long and the bed cools down, the print may pop off the bed. (at least with glass)

 

Hopefully you can figure out the approximate layer and recover.  I've had to do that once or twice.  When I think I have it I just print out a few layers and see if it matches up well with what is printed. Then print the whole remaining piece.

 

of course the next challenge is getting the software to cooperate.  when I try to make the cut the entire program just shuts down.  Ah, Prusa such a wonderful product.

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1 minute ago, Kangaroorex said:

of course the next challenge is getting the software to cooperate.  when I try to make the cut the entire program just shuts down.  Ah, Prusa such a wonderful product.

What are you using to slice for the Prusa?

Can you use Cura for it?

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The prusa is supposed to use a program called prusa slicer.  which has worked okay right up until when it doesnt.  I have used Cura before but it was for simple stuff a long time ago

 

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Well the print was finished.  Need to figure out better supports for the Prusa and also modify the model if ibwant to try it again.  On to the most irritating prints (to me at any rate) some fat dragon buildings.  The floors take forever to print (4x4 floor take 3-5 hours and the wall sections are tricky to get to stick because they are tall and narrow.  But it's a good test of the level of the bed and how easy it is to remove material from the bed.

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The big issue with the Fat Dragon floors is that they're not flat on the underside.  

If you choose any kind of supports it will fill those voids with support structures.  

 

If your printer is capable of printing the cube I mentioned earlier, without supports, those floors can also be printed unsupported.  

If one or two layers is a bit saggy and looks like a rats nest it doesn't matter as long as the top is good. 

 

Back when I was printing their 2x2 dungeon tiles, I only ever used a Brim. No rafts, no supports. 

 

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9 minutes ago, Gadgetman! said:

The big issue with the Fat Dragon floors is that they're not flat on the underside.  

If you choose any kind of supports it will fill those voids with support structures.  

 

If your printer is capable of printing the cube I mentioned earlier, without supports, those floors can also be printed unsupported.  

If one or two layers is a bit saggy and looks like a rats nest it doesn't matter as long as the top is good. 

 

Back when I was printing their 2x2 dungeon tiles, I only ever used a Brim. No rafts, no supports. 

 

I have always run these with only the outline to get flow going (a skirt if i have my jargon right.  On the Prusa I get a some droopy lines on the rest fill level but it's don after that.  I don't know what the Ender will do until it completes but I agree 100% with the no support rule you would just get a solid brick.  I was considering a raft without supports though that might make it easier to separate from the Prusa build plate

  My problems with invisible films stem from fat dragon roof and gable tiles. Though I may see if I can modify the roof setup to print all at once rather than those thin roof sections.

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The 2x2 tiles I print as is on my Ender.  No supports, no raft, and they come out fine.  Well usually.  I have had a few failures but that was stuff that wasn't the printers fault.  I haven't printed a whole lot else besides the tiles and clips (a whole spools worth) but those are good.  I organizing so I have a pile of stuff in front of my desk with the printer, but I intent to get back to printing sometime soon.

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