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Knight of the Dinner Table

[SPLIT] 3d printers

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7 minutes ago, Glitterwolf said:

 

Haven't had that issue yet.

I replaced the FEP and all.

It looks like it's watertight.

It's quite possible that because you had to replace the FEP very early on the in the piece that you won't experience this issue - I haven't seen it since I replaced my FEP - but it's also something to be aware of if you are going to not be printing for a while.

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I've replaced my FEP, still haven't experienced capilary action causing a leak, before or after. My FEP actually came from the factory too tight and I had to loosen it slightly.

As for those Gorilions... Those are cool but I'm looking forward to the koi dragon even more.

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On my old Bean, the original FEP was sealed with clear bathroom silicone. Later they added a rubber gasket between the FEP and the vat. 

 

You can see it on this video clip from the 1minute mark;

https://youtu.be/gIAVl5Udqqk?t=60

 

 

Maybe we can add a bead of silicone on the vat of the Photon or the Mars?

(I haven't had to replace the FEP on my Photon, et, so I haven't studied it all that much)

 

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On 6/27/2020 at 4:56 AM, PaganMegan said:

She's on Cults.

 

 

She's not topless, she's naked in an apron.

I, uhm had assumed that was a skirt.... :blush:

 

Still want to put clothes on her - I like her expression - she looks like a happy Chaotic Good goblin. Wearing just an apron.

 

Do I want to know what the Duke Nukem Casino Girl STL is?...

 

The Auld Grump

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1 hour ago, Gadgetman! said:

On my old Bean, the original FEP was sealed with clear bathroom silicone. Later they added a rubber gasket between the FEP and the vat. 

 

You can see it on this video clip from the 1minute mark;

https://youtu.be/gIAVl5Udqqk?t=60

 

 

Maybe we can add a bead of silicone on the vat of the Photon or the Mars?

(I haven't had to replace the FEP on my Photon, et, so I haven't studied it all that much)

 

You probably can seal it as part of the FEP replacement process, just have to make sure that it doesn't get into the vat itself. I'm not sure it's worth the extra effort though when it's easy enough to avoid

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12 hours ago, ratsmitglied said:

You probably can seal it as part of the FEP replacement process, just have to make sure that it doesn't get into the vat itself. I'm not sure it's worth the extra effort though when it's easy enough to avoid

 

It can matter if you want to run the printer 24/7 for a while and don't have the opportunity to take precautions. 

 

When I print a lot of parts, I start a long job in the morning(needs a lot more resin in the vat then) then go to work. If it's finished by the time I get home, I get the parts off the platform and into the IPA, then start the printer on a 'short time' build(something that can finish before it's time to go to bed), and when that is finished, I start another job that is supposed to finish around the time I get up.  

(It's why I add a rough time estimate to the name of the slicefile)

 

I managed to use a whole 1L bottle of resin in a week, once. 

 

Two or threee days of that can produce a lot of parts 

Also, as it prints, the resin is heated and becomes runnier, and more likely to be affected by capillary action. 

 

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On 6/27/2020 at 10:56 AM, PaganMegan said:

She's on Cults.

 

 

She's not topless, she's naked in an apron.

 

There is a nice goblin girl sleeping in a flower from that range.

About the  Capillary action of resin.

This might be a soultion?

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3811679

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Just printed another part of the bug.

Now I'm printing the last part, the tail.

 

It's getting close, last resin is in the VAT!

I ordered another 1000ml due end this week!

 

I guess I will have to paint for a few days instead of printing.

Hope I can manage to print this last part and maybe some smaller stuff.

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On 6/29/2020 at 5:45 AM, TaleSpinner said:

 

Yeah, it took a lot of adjustment to find the right exposure for the printer/resin.  The Photon S has a brighter LED than the Photon, so i couldn't use the settings that everyone publishes.  I ended up with a 4.5 sec exposure at .03 layer height for AnyCubic resins and 8 for the Phrozen ones.

 

I'll try these. I tried one of the higher ones, that most everyone on the Photon Fazebooc group said or has posted. Pretty much a failed print. Details were worse then when I was printing at 8 exposure. Universal choice on there & abroad thou is Elegoo resins are higher then others. I just need to print out that test & try that. That is anther thing allot of people on there trust. Beats guessing.

 

I must have really boofooed the settings in Chitubox on a halfling warrior print. He came out bigger then a human & the detail was extremely terrible. I had it on a setting, someone said to use for miniatures on the fbk group + his size I must not have done any re-scaling in the slicer (remember kids, don't work on files when your tired!!). Currently printing up a "tray" of things at the settings, Talespinner recommends. Hopefully they'll come out.

 

"Tray" being a Dr Frankenstein (will be a neutral doctor the PCs encounter), Igor (will be a old man the PCs encounter) & hopefully I solved my crawling claw (disembodied undead hand creature) problem!! I've found previous files but the size I've got em at, they are delicate & the fingers (or 1 does) break off too easily when removing supports. This file/print hopefully solves this.

 

Also got some disembodied feet as well. It's a oddball encounter: PCs open a door, as music is playing. They see the feet pumping on a instrument. Will they investigate? If so, feet attack.

 

I'll admit, I didn't mind the prints I was doing before I started meddling with the settings, but I'd rather get em to where it should be vs just going with the flow, so to speak.

1 hour ago, Glitterwolf said:

I ordered another 1000ml due end this week!

 

As much as I've been printing these last few weeks, I'm debating on getting anther bottle myself. Thou, I may switch back to Anycubic, but of course, grey (vs trans green).

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At this point, I am sticking with AnyCubic standard resins (Aqua and Green), Phrozen High Temp Engineering for pewter molding, and BluCast DX10 for direct to cast jewelry.  I have the settings for those dialed in now and am sick of having to tinker with the settings for a month every time I switch resins.

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Elegoo Grey works fine for me, if it ain't broken don't fix it..so I will stay with that one.

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34 minutes ago, TaleSpinner said:

At this point, I am sticking with AnyCubic standard resins (Aqua and Green), Phrozen High Temp Engineering for pewter molding, and BluCast DX10 for direct to cast jewelry.  I have the settings for those dialed in now and am sick of having to tinker with the settings for a month every time I switch resins.

Where do you buy your Anycubic resin? I find it out of stock from most of my normal channels. 

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4 minutes ago, KruleBear said:

Where do you buy your Anycubic resin? I find it out of stock from most of my normal channels. 

 

Amazon

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6 hours ago, Glitterwolf said:

 

There is a nice goblin girl sleeping in a flower from that range.

About the  Capillary action of resin.

This might be a soultion?

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3811679

 

That item doesn't solve the issue of capillary action. 

It actually increases it. At least the first version did that. It clamps onto the side of the vat, and the not entirely perfect surface creates the narrow channels needed for capillary action, so resin is pulled up and over the edge of the vat. 

 

 

I get my Anycubic resin on Aliexpress. 

 

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Just now, Gadgetman! said:

 

That item doesn't solve the issue of capillary action. 

It actually increases it. At least the first version did that. It clamps onto the side of the vat, and the not entirely perfect surface creates the narrow channels needed for capillary action, so resin is pulled up and over the edge of the vat. 

 

 

 

Good to know!

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