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Reaper Bones 5 : Enthusiasm and Commentary Thread

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1 hour ago, TheAuldGrump said:

And I have always had excellent results using Army Painter spray primers over Bones - even the ones from the Bones I KS.

You’re the second forumite regular in past few hours to recommend Army Painter spray primers for Bones.

 

I have painted Bones without a primer, and with the Reaper brown liner, but I like to thin my paints in many cases and that really needs a primer with Bones, so I’m going to give Army Painter primer a try on them.

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17 minutes ago, Hikikomori said:

I hope they have a plan to at least 4 million.

Judging from the recent remarks by Ron about "daily meetings" I would opine that we are very close to the point where "making it up on the fly" becomes a major part of the plan.

GEM

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So Im not keen on a translucent ship.  My main reason is the material.  I think it should be done primarily in the same material as the crypt.  Warping will be a huge issue especially if they want to make the interior playable.  
Now if they can make that material translucent.  Then I'm ok with it.  

2 minutes ago, Darsc Zacal said:

You’re the second forumite regular in past few hours to recommend Army Painter spray primers for Bones.

 

I have painted Bones without a primer, and with the Reaper brown liner, but I like to thin my paints in many cases and that really needs a primer with Bones, so I’m going to give Army Painter primer a try on them.

Am I number 1?  I know Ive recommended it.  Their spray primer is awesome.  Its pricey but goes on silky smooth.  

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i also agree - army painter primers do well with older bones models and newer.  dont seem to cause the tackyness issue.

 

i use army painter white for bones.


Sanjay

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5 minutes ago, Bane Of Humanity said:

So Im not keen on a translucent ship.  My main reason is the material.  I think it should be done primarily in the same material as the crypt.  Warping will be a huge issue especially if they want to make the interior playable.  
Now if they can make that material translucent.  Then I'm ok with it.  

Am I number 1?  I know Ive recommended it.  Their spray primer is awesome.  Its pricey but goes on silky smooth.  

Most plastics are translucent to transparent at the thicknesses generally used for injection molding.  The reason that you usually see opaque materials is because of the intentional introduction of coloring agents or materials to make the material appear more solid. 

Have you ever sawn a solid colored piece of injection molded plastic and ended up with some gray or white dust as part of the waste material from the cut?  That is cement or talc, or possibly raw powdered gypsum, added as filler and opacifier.  Plastics are such an incredibly useful and maleable class of materials that the ways they can be used are mind boggling.

GEM

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4 minutes ago, Bane Of Humanity said:

So Im not keen on a translucent ship.  My main reason is the material.  I think it should be done primarily in the same material as the crypt.  Warping will be a huge issue especially if they want to make the interior playable.  
Now if they can make that material translucent.  Then I'm ok with it.  

I agree. It has to be the harder firmer material.

And even then I think it would be a good marketing move to offer both a solid and a translucent version.

 

5 minutes ago, Bane Of Humanity said:

Am I number 1?  I know Ive recommended it.  Their spray primer is awesome.  Its pricey but goes on silky smooth

Actually I was thinking of Pochi, sorry.

But it makes me feel even more confident knowing that you recommend it as well.

Thanks! ::):

 

 

4 minutes ago, StarFyre said:

i also agree - army painter primers do well with older bones models and newer.  dont seem to cause the tackyness issue.

 

i use army painter white for bones.

  

White is what I prefer to prime with, though a light grey primer is acceptable for buildings and terrain features.

I have tried but don’t like black or dark grey primers.

 

I actually have tried an Army Painter primer in the past. Not on Bones but on Mantics HIPS plastic Dwarves.

It was a metallic silver, I was trying to speed things up since the minis were mostly armour, but the primer sprayed on thicker than I would have liked.

That was several years ago though.

 

I will be keeping an eye out for Army Painter white.

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Ive always used black primer.  Just because I hate getting those white dots that I have to hunt for.  Though now that I use more glazes and washes it isn't much of an issue but I got used to painting with black primer.  
Im eager to try the contrast paints which means Ill have to switch to white primer.  

Edited by Bane Of Humanity
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1 minute ago, Bane Of Humanity said:

Ive always used black primer.  Just because I hate getting those white dots that I have to hunt for.  Though now that I use more glazes and washes it isn't much of an issue but I got used to painting with black primer.  
Im eager to try the contrast paints which means Ill have to switch to white primer.  

Zenithal priming has become my best friend. No white dots in the recesses and nice bright colors on my higher surfaces

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4 minutes ago, cosxcam said:

Zenithal priming has become my best friend. No white dots in the recesses and nice bright colors on my higher surfaces

I have not had the opportunity to try that technique.  I think I want to try it on a big mini.  Maybe a dragon.  I watched a video of someone painting a 3d printed tarrassque it looked awesome.
I also think it would benefit use of contrast paints and glazes

Edited by Bane Of Humanity
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1 minute ago, Bane Of Humanity said:

I have not had the opportunity to try that technique.  I think I want to try it on a big mini.  Maybe a dragon.  I watched a video of someone painting a 3d printed tarrassque it looked awesome.
I also think it would benefit use of contrast paints and glazes

 

Have to tried it with contrast paints because their cost is kind of crazy, but it's great with glazes

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16 minutes ago, Bane Of Humanity said:

Im eager to try the contrast paints which means Ill have to switch to white primer.  

Just heads up of something one my players (also a mini painter) showed me w/ contrast paints. The technique is used for one specific type of armor in Warhammer, IIRC, but he based a medium dragon mini in gold, then went over it w/ red contrast paint. It produced a really nice sheen to the "scales" of the dragon. 

 

Then he hit the dorsal fins/spines w/ a different red. 

 

I'm thinking of copying the effect on one of the dragons from this KS. 

 

Edit: It doesn't come across as well in the photo as in person, but here's his pseudodragon. It may have still been a WIP at the point this photo was taken (almost positive), but you get the idea. 

 

image.thumb.jpeg.14e5a2ca990485669f7a16692b7a1074.jpeg

Edited by ksbsnowowl
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2 hours ago, redambrosia said:

Well, I think the sticking point is that folks are seeing the ship as less useful in a translucent state, right out of the box, than in an opaque state. 

 

I would like an opaque one so that it looks better unpainted in a swimming pool. If I get a boat, I'm going to figure out how to mod it so it can float. I want my pool & margaritas D&D session!

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21 minutes ago, ksbsnowowl said:

Just heads up of something one my players (also a mini painter) showed me w/ contrast paints. The technique is used for one specific type of armor in Warhammer, IIRC, but he based a medium dragon mini in gold, then went over it w/ red contrast paint. It produced a really nice sheen to the "scales" of the dragon. 

 

Then he hit the dorsal fins/spines w/ a different red. 

 

I'm thinking of copying the effect on one of the dragons from this KS. 

 

Edit: It doesn't come across as well in the photo as in person, but here's his pseudodragon. It may have still been a WIP at the point this photo was taken (almost positive), but you get the idea. 

 

image.thumb.jpeg.14e5a2ca990485669f7a16692b7a1074.jpeg

Vallejo has metallic medium which you can add to pretty much any color.  You can use it as a base coat for metal etc.  Then glaze over it to tint it.  As its a silver color.  Almost the same principle.  its always fun to experiment.  I have tried mixing it with the glaze but it typically ends up being to thick.  

EDIT: I prefer it to using regular metallic paint as the medium brightens the color 1 step on top of adding the sheen effect.  So it provides a very bright base to get a vibrant metal color.  

Edited by Bane Of Humanity
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1 hour ago, Green Eyed Monster said:

Condos meet my definition of overly urbanzed living arrangements.

Of course, I'm also the person who is currently making arrangements to move to a nearly 5 acre parcel out in what most people would consider as Rural America but we view as just "barely out in the country", with the state Caital Complex barely 30 minutes away.

GEM

 

 

That is just barely out in the country ;-) We've only got 3 acres, but our nearest town (20 minutes) has a population of about 1000, and the nearest major city is 90 minutes away, and I consider us barely out in the country...

 

1 hour ago, Darsc Zacal said:

You’re the second forumite regular in past few hours to recommend Army Painter spray primers for Bones.

 

I have painted Bones without a primer, and with the Reaper brown liner, but I like to thin my paints in many cases and that really needs a primer with Bones, so I’m going to give Army Painter primer a try on them.

Considering my experiences with the army painter sprays on metals and resins they can't be any worse on bones (they have seemed to be ok on other plastics)

 

More on topic I'm still sitting on a $1 pledge as there hasn't been anything added that's a must-have for me.

 

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Army Painter primers are great - I normally go for grey or cream rather than black or white but that's just me. Also, the Vallejo coloured airbrush primers are brilliant even if brushed on. Leather brown is a favourite. They can be used a bit like contrast paints as you put a layer straight down onto a bones mini (that has been washed in dish soap and water first) and then follow up with a sepia ink wash. That brings out all the details. 

 

Am loving the idea of Brinewind. Those skeletal pirates look cool and the human and otter ones they have teased previously look good as well. Although Reaper don't produce much 'fluff' or background material I really like the idea of Dreadmere as a setting so the more they do that kind of thing and have a cohesive, slightly different setting the better. 

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