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Reaper Bones 5 : Enthusiasm and Commentary Thread

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6 hours ago, Chris Palmer said:

...shuffles back from putting a pot of coffee on...

 

      Since it's a slow morning around here, I thought I'd show some photos for the new folks of what's in store for them in Spring of 2021! ::D:

 

A huge box appears on our doorstep (Cats not included!) 

 

 

I know, seriously, I only got one!

 

BonesIVBox.png.b3d1ea193433038bf0403c2d5d8eb0f5.png

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26 minutes ago, klarg1 said:

 

Yeah, my work space is about 20x15. I don't think it's gonna cut it.

In a few months I'll be upgrading to an 8' wide desk, I so can't wait.  my current 46.5"x25" table really isn't cutting it for work space - which in a way is kind of funny, because 3' of that 8' desk is probably going to be taken up by an airbrush workstation, but I also won't have my paints hogging a bunch of space at the same time...

 

25 minutes ago, Skallabjorn said:

Thanks (sincerely) for the heads up. Post edited to remove link. ::):

No worries at all!

Edited by WhiteWulfe
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16 minutes ago, Corsair said:

Hiya Boss! My best experience with them has been on the newer Bones Black minis, so that may be the difference. My CAVs have all been either brush painted or airbrushed using regular acrylics. Is the new CAV kickstarter stuff in the older material or the stuff the Enforcer is made in?

The Enforcer is Bones Black before there was a Bones Black! :) but, bones and bones black is the same PVC plastic. All the CAV KS3 stuff and anything new going forward will all be like the Enforcer.

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23 minutes ago, CAVBOSS said:

bones and bones black is the same PVC plastic

 

It's all PVC; the big difference is how much plasticizer is used (and the concomitant differences in molds). IME, it's the plasticizer that reacts badly with the solvent in rattle-can paints to make minis tacky, which would mesh with the different experience using rattle-cans with Bones Black.

 

Relatedly, an isopropyl alcohol soak removes quite a bit of plasticizer from the plastic near the surface of miniatures (I've used it with both early Bones figures and early CAV figures), making them less floppy, less hydrophobic, and seemingly less prone to stickiness when sprayed. YMMV, of course.

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2 hours ago, Doug Sundseth said:

 

I can make clear into anything, but purple (for instance) can only be opaque or something close to purple on the color wheel unless it has a very low dye density.

 

But that doesn't necessarily mean that Reaper would sell just as many clear ships as they would "ghost" ships.

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I noticed a call for a stegosaurus mini over in the KS chat just now.  I thought to myself, " I know just the Steg for the job! I've seen it somewhere around here..."

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4 minutes ago, lowlylowlycook said:

 

But that doesn't necessarily mean that Reaper would sell just as many clear ships as they would "ghost" ships.

Actually a clear ship could be just as "ghostly" as a green translucent.

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20 minutes ago, Corsair said:

Actually a clear ship could be just as "ghostly" as a green translucent.

 

I have a few translucent minis, painted a few of those.

To be honest I feel like the translucents have a little softer detail than the normal ones.

I do not want a translucent ship, I want it to be sturdy and well detailed.

We'll see what happens.

 

If it is translucent I will not buy one.

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I do think that a solid color [especially a brown] would be the best seller. that gives the option if you need it green/ghostly that would be a solid base to work from as well.

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23 minutes ago, Glitterwolf said:

 

I have a few translucent minis, painted a few of those.

To be honest I feel like the translucents have a little softer detail than the normal ones.

 

At this point I've painted quite a few translucent minis. IME, their detail level is the same, but it's harder to see it. (Just like it's harder to see the detail in early Bones figures, but once they're primed the detail is often fine.) To make a translucent look good, you need to pick out details in opaque paint, which, done well, will not change the way the mini reads, but will make it much more interesting on the tabletop.

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2 minutes ago, Corsair said:

I do think that a solid color [especially a brown] would be the best seller. that gives the option if you need it green/ghostly that would be a solid base to work from as well.

 

I figure once the mold is made one can inject both types of PVC in that.

So they could provide us with both options.

 

 

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4 minutes ago, Doug Sundseth said:

 

At this point I've painted quite a few translucent minis. IME, their detail level is the same, but it's harder to see it. (Just like it's harder to see the detail in early Bones figures, but once they're primed the detail is often fine.) To make a translucent look good, you need to pick out details in opaque paint, which, done well, will not change the way the mini reads, but will make it much more interesting on the tabletop.

 

Maybe you're right, I have painted the phase cat( removed the tentacles) the banshee and the tentacle set for a diorama at this point.

I must say the smaller details like eyes and teeth were very hard to see, but that could be me, I need a visor to paint these.

I'm still a bit reluctant about a translucent ship especially since it won't be a cheap option.

I will need to think about that, I'm hoping for either both options or a solid one at this point.

 

One of the things I liked about the new Black Bones are the enhanced details.

I kinda hoped the ship would be from that material.

 

I have the Barge, if it will be like that I will be happy with it.

 

 

Edited by Glitterwolf
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Looking at production costs, on a small mini, I don't know that they could consider doing a mini in two colors, but on a BIG item like this, maybe possible.

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2 minutes ago, Corsair said:

Looking at production costs, on a small mini, I don't know that they could consider doing a mini in two colors, but on a BIG item like this, maybe possible.

 

They did it with Kyphrixis. A medium sized dragon.

 

image.png.7ad87d3b87e7e961eb11d04bcae7f714.png

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