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Flesh tones


NymMoondown
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Normalish skin,  start priming black, do the eyes, then several thinned even coats of a German Panzer red-brown as a base color. Once this is done, I will mix in some Desert Tan color and keep my solution thinned with teh water/Future mix. I almost cover the whole base area with this. Next come highlighting and this will take from 3 to 10 more layers, alternating between adding more tan and white, always thinning. Just do the areas for highlights smaller and smaller all the time.

For a grimy look, I added som olive green into a wash after about the 3rd layer and did the recesses of muscles with it. With some practice, this could look really cool.

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Albinic or Vampire skin. Start with black prime, then the eyes as before. Now the base color is a mix about 2:1 of worm purple and Desert tan. Nice even base coat of this, then basically lighten up the same way as the other, adding a bit of tan at first, then mostly just white. Naturally, you will want red eyes ;)
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Doing a regular tannish type skin using Vallejo.

Start with black primer,  base coat with 50/50 mix orange brown and saddle brown,

1st highlight 75 flat flesh  -  25  orange brown

1st shadow    75  saddle brown  -  25 orange brown    6:1 water/thinner

2nd highlight   45 flat flesh  -  45 orange brown  10  white

3rd highlight   65 flat flesh  -  15 orange brown  20 white

4th highlight   75 flat flesh  -  5 orange brown   20 white

5th highlight   75 flat flesh  -  20 white   5  sunny skin tone

6th highlight   75 flat flesh  -  15  white  10  sunny skin

7th highlight   75 flat flesh  -  10 white   15 sunny skin

8th highlight   75 flat flesh   - 5 white  20 sunny skin

9th highlight   75 flat flesh  -  25  sunny skin

2nd shadow  saddle brown    15:1  water/thinner

Keep making smaller and smaller transitions with the highlights, the final shadow will blend in all the edges.  Hopefully I can get this up on my site soon.

Steve

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I'm going to have to try this out!  i usually only do 2 or 3 coats.  perhaps that is why my skin tones dont turn out as well as your guys do.  so with the eyes (another problem of mine...or perhaps old age is stopping me from seeing well) you base all your mini faces black first and then place a small amout of white on either side?  i think the hard part is not painting over the eyes when you base again with a flesh tone :)
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Well, you do waste some paint.  With the Vallejo you can squeeze out as much or as little as you want.  Most of the time I take the cap off and dip brush into it.  Normally I paint 54mm figures but I am finding that I enjoy the 28mm scale just as well.

Steve

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1) use a retarder, you can then feather and blend the edges together without using so many thin coats.

 

2) Try laying down a 'bead' of paint, IE, thicker in the middle than at the edges. With retarder in it, and thinned with water. When dry, this forms an instant shading, since the pigment is more concentrated in the center... <:)

 

3) Blending works best using dark over lighter colors. I paint the shadows, then the stark hilights, then use a mix of the shadow-hilight paint to feather out the edges. With retarder, the paint dries to a gel before drying hard, and you can push it around and feather it.

 

I don't use 10 coats, I use maybe 3-4 transitional shades at the most.

 

Basically, don't fret about the hilights and the shadows, fret about where the two appear next to each other. That is what needs to be blended.

 

-Daniel

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Hey, I am glad that page helped out. Sorry no pics, but then all of my newer work especially is done that way.

As for 3rd edition stuff, I have no clue. I am a diehard 1st edition player who is just getting convinced that 2nd edition ain't so bad! Yes, I am an old Star Trek fan too, who thinks a bald captain is okay, but HE's NOT KIRK!

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