Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.
By Jordan Peacock
I put in for a bag on the Black Friday sale, because ever since I was a kid, I had a certain fascination with the surprise element of grab bags ... and there's something especially fun about the assortment of random bits from SWM: "How can I make use of this oddball base / terrain bit?"
Basically, the story behind the "Bag o' (Crud)" (that's not what it's actually called, but Wendy would be disappointed in me if I used that word in casual conversation) is that it's a bag of whatever assorted bits are on hand that aren't quite up to Secret Weapon Miniatures's usual production standards -- so there might be some bases with warping, or bubbles in the base near the edge, or breakage, etc. I also notice a lot of variation in resin color, so maybe some are the result of testing out different resin types for casting. Sometimes the bases show no discernible flaws at all, but that might simply be because he throws in a few random spare bits to fill out the bag if there's not enough "trash" around.
In particular, I got some more "Shattered Ritual" bases of assorted sizes and styles. (I got a big oval "Shattered Ritual" base, and actually bought one 120mm round-lipped "Shattered Ritual" base last Black Friday circa 2018. I thought I could use the latter to base an Iron Kingdoms mini project, but never got around to it, as the campaign had already ended, and noises about possibly starting it up again got well snuffed out.) I *love* this style, even though it's rarely a fit with the sorts of games I typically run. Basically, each base has an intricate collection of "magic circle" designs with a ruinous look, like some wizard's tower had circles-upon-circles interlinking with each other, and then SOMETHING WENT HORRIBLY WRONG. (And thus the "shattered" part.)
The surface of the flooring is fairly smooth, but with lots of finely scribed detail that would be a pain to try to paint out by conventional means. However, I found a method that works for me: 1) Spray-paint it with white primer, right out of the bag. It seems as if there's just a tiny bit of residual mold release that collects in the "scribed" areas (or perhaps there's some other "surface tension" effect taking place), and the end result is that the paint tends to collect on the flat, top surfaces, but DOES NOT pool into the sharp scribed lines, so this actually *brings out* the detail more. 2) Once it has fully dried, I smear the surface, section by section, with Apple Barrel paints "Pewter" acrylic, then wipe it off, allowing the paint to "stain" the surface and especially the recessed areas. "Pewter" is a strange "dirty grey" color that has an ever-so-faintly yellow-green shift to it. It ends up turning the white-primered surface into what looks (to my eyes) something like aged porcelain, with a faintly grimy yellowish tint to the surface, and a dirty-grey "stain" that brings out the scribed lines. Sometimes in the course of wiping off the excess, I will catch some of the paint in the recesses, so I go back later (after it has dried) to do some touch-up work where needed. 3) I apply some brown wash to the exposed "ground" areas where cracks between the "magic circles" have given way. If some of this brown splashes onto the surface, I just wipe it away, and any resulting "stain" just adds to the grimy effect of the ruins. 4) Using a fine liner brush, I trace the thicker border lines around the circles with Golden Yellow (not a particularly BRIGHT yellow), and then go back with a very little bit (at a time) of watered-down Pumpkin Orange to tint random parts of the golden-yellow for a little color variety. (Burnt Sienna would probably work well, too.) 5) Also using a fine liner brush, I go in and do some spot tinting of some of the circles, symbols, and other shapes (but not all!) with various pastel or otherwise reduced-saturation paint colors (Barnyard Red, French Blue, Denim Blue, Pewter, Olive, etc.), slightly watering down if necessary, as I want a *hint* of color, not solid, garish spots. It's perfectly fine if the colors are "dirtied" a bit, or the coverage isn't complete, since a bit of *wear* would be appropriate.
Here's "Fiametta" (Soda Pop Miniatures - "Relic Knights" - heroine from "Doctrine" faction) painted up and based on the rounded-lip "Shattered Ritual" base I got from the latest Bag o' Crud ... on top of the oval base I got in last year's Bag o' Crud ... on top of a Tablescapes "Forgotten City" tile set. "Doctrine" is basically this faction centered around a "magical academy" in Relic Knights, so the "mook" forces are a bunch of magic-school kids (boring looking guys in school uniforms, and girls in really short skirts, all waving wands), with most of the heroes either being "teachers" or other "staff" at the school, plus a few special "graduates" ("mahou shoujo" types, mostly). The faction color is yellow/gold, so I used it for the base rim, and also used it as a recurring element for the magic circles on the Shattered-Ritual bases.
By Jordan Peacock
Recently, Modiphius released an STL model of the Corvega Coupe, so fans can 3D-print their own (provided they have access to a 3D printer, of course). I am fortunate enough to have a friend (Chris Thesing) who actually has *two* 3D printers. He printed off two runs of the model: one in lower resolution on his older PrintrBot Plus printer (using Solutech PLA filament), and another using his newer, higher-resolution resin printer.
The PLA filament version of the model. This model prints in two pieces -- one for the undercarriage and wheel hubs, and another for the upper body shell. Alas, there are no tires, and no separate segments for the gull-wing doors, windows, hood, trunk, etc. This was printed flat on the bed, and due to the low resolution this of course means a lot of striation on those gently curving surfaces. (This is how it looked after an initial spritz of white spray primer, as the sheen of the bare plastic was problematic for taking photos of the detail, such as it is.)
On the right is the resin-printed version of the same model. First off, it's a much higher resolution, but also Chris tried printing it at a 45-degree angle (supported by temporary scaffolding) as he's seen several others do. I'm not quite sure about the advantages of doing this, but I think it makes a difference, because the curved surfaces of the hood, roof, and trunk are very shallow curves. Actually, I think if the car were put up straight on its bumper, there'd be the best result, because each of the slices across the car would have a minimum variation of width from one to the next, versus the big jumps in footprint area to each layer when the car is printed right-side-up. That's just my notion, however; there might be factors I'm unaware of that are contributing to this.
Anyway, on the left is the PLA car, but I've gone back with some sandpaper to try to smooth it out a bit. The trouble is, I noticed that I'd utterly *destroyed* the shallow scribing detail of the gull-wing doors on the roof, and I was in danger of obliterating the Chryslus symbol on the hood and other such things, so I called it quits after a bit, and hoped I could make up for it by camouflaging the striation with "rust paint" effects.
Here's a side-by-side of the two models now that each one is a little closer in terms of where I am in the process. The green car on the left is the PLA model (you can still see the striation despite my sanding), whereas the resin one is the red one on the right. I went in and painted the window areas and chrome detail in grey, and splashed some paint on the PLA undercarriage in preparation for making it look a bit rusted out. At this point, I pretty much decided that the resin car is going to look pretty much intact, though a bit grungy, with the thought that it's a car that's been restored Post-War, or has somehow otherwise been kept in relatively good condition. (I could after all use it as a "show car" for my "Chryslus Show Room" scenario.)
Well mostly scenic base. Made a town centre that will get dressed up as a market once finished. Basing material is foamex with a plastic receipt spool covered in Milliput. Painted with a mix of craft, PP and GW paints. Further tinted with a treatment of oils.
By Jordan Peacock
Online, from a certain market of miniatures, I found some "Kaosball" team expansion packs on clearance (for a better price than what they're listed at now, as of this writing). Each pack contains 13 32mm-scale minis in 2 poses (6 of one pose on 25mm square bases, and 7 of an alt pose on 25mm round bases), a "bust" that represents the "team coach," and a game-specific 12-sided die (which I suppose isn't much use for anything, unless I actually wanted to play the game). Anyway, this worked out to being under $1 a figure, and the sculpts looked interesting, so I got a few packs. (I find it hilarious, though, that while most of the packs are marked down, the "Felinia Hellcats" -- scantily-clad gun-toting cat-girls -- are specifically marked as "[CLEARANCE]" and yet they're priced at about 3x the asking price for each of the other teams.)
I originally picked these guys up (the "Samaria Barbarians") with a vague intent that "someday" I would run a Savage Worlds convention one-shot scenario heavily inspired by the "Brütal Legend" video game ... but it occurred to me that few if any of my players would have heard of that game, and I'm no particular "expert" on anything rock-and-roll-related, so maybe I'm not the best person to GM such a setting.
However, I could always use a few more post-apocalyptic wastelanders. The "big hair" style here doesn't necessarily look like it would fit the current Fallout aesthetic as established in Fallout 4 and Fallout 76, but I think these guys wouldn't look terribly out of place in the original Fallout 1 & 2 (what with all the "Mad Max" and "Fist of the North Star" wannabes wandering about in those games). I removed the figures from their bases, putty-and-texture-stamped the 25mm round bases, putty-and-texture-stamped some plastic 25mm rounds for the remaining figures, and did a few hand swaps and bit-add-ons to give a few of the figures visible ranged weaponry. (I figured that would give me a little more buy-in if I were to field a gang of these guys for an encounter and then they start FIRING on the PCs, versus what pushback I might get if they *appeared* to only be armed with axes.)
I used some paper printed license plates to add some "junk armor" elements to further reinforce the "post-apocalyptic" vibe.
Each team pack also comes with a "bust" to represent the team coach. I went with a bronze-and-verdigris scheme for each.
Who's Online 29 Members, 0 Anonymous, 26 Guests (See full list)
- Jordan Peacock
- Doug Sundseth
- Knight of the Dinner Table
- Chris Palmer