Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Jordan Peacock

Modiphius 3D-Printed Corvega Coupe Models

Recommended Posts

Recently, Modiphius released an STL model of the Corvega Coupe, so fans can 3D-print their own (provided they have access to a 3D printer, of course).  I am fortunate enough to have a friend (Chris Thesing) who actually has *two* 3D printers.  He printed off two runs of the model: one in lower resolution on his older PrintrBot Plus printer (using Solutech PLA filament), and another using his newer, higher-resolution resin printer.

 

cde12a42b0ab839356bab494224c132711fdcf4c

^^^

The PLA filament version of the model.  This model prints in two pieces -- one for the undercarriage and wheel hubs, and another for the upper body shell.  Alas, there are no tires, and no separate segments for the gull-wing doors, windows, hood, trunk, etc.  This was printed flat on the bed, and due to the low resolution this of course means a lot of striation on those gently curving surfaces.  (This is how it looked after an initial spritz of white spray primer, as the sheen of the bare plastic was problematic for taking photos of the detail, such as it is.)

 

470d1ef7166acaa26b4ded9f46059780275031cf

^^^

On the right is the resin-printed version of the same model.  First off, it's a much higher resolution, but also Chris tried printing it at a 45-degree angle (supported by temporary scaffolding) as he's seen several others do.  I'm not quite sure about the advantages of doing this, but I think it makes a difference, because the curved surfaces of the hood, roof, and trunk are very shallow curves.  Actually, I think if the car were put up straight on its bumper, there'd be the best result, because each of the slices across the car would have a minimum variation of width from one to the next, versus the big jumps in footprint area to each layer when the car is printed right-side-up.  That's just my notion, however; there might be factors I'm unaware of that are contributing to this.

 

Anyway, on the left is the PLA car, but I've gone back with some sandpaper to try to smooth it out a bit.  The trouble is, I noticed that I'd utterly *destroyed* the shallow scribing detail of the gull-wing doors on the roof, and I was in danger of obliterating the Chryslus symbol on the hood and other such things, so I called it quits after a bit, and hoped I could make up for it by camouflaging the striation with "rust paint" effects.

 

 

c06ef5df17c27f803858ff71d45b011e94d39013

 

Here's a side-by-side of the two models now that each one is a little closer in terms of where I am in the process.  The green car on the left is the PLA model (you can still see the striation despite my sanding), whereas the resin one is the red one on the right.  I went in and painted the window areas and chrome detail in grey, and splashed some paint on the PLA undercarriage in preparation for making it look a bit rusted out.  At this point, I pretty much decided that the resin car is going to look pretty much intact, though a bit grungy, with the thought that it's a car that's been restored Post-War, or has somehow otherwise been kept in relatively good condition.  (I could after all use it as a "show car" for my "Chryslus Show Room" scenario.)

 

 

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

e2c56027e587bdc23182993e6019134e020ae548

 

(Huh.  For some reason that's displaying as a LOT larger here than the other pictures.  Oops.)

 

Anyway, I went to town with the rust effects on this one.  First off, I painted some large blotches of Pavement Gray for the "rusty" areas.  I then used a smaller bushy brush to spackle with Pumpkin Orange and then a few specks of Golden Yellow.  I lined the "rust spot" areas with lighter Granite Gray in hopes of making it pop and suggest that there might be a layer difference between the remaining flecks of paint and the exposed metal underneath (even though, physically speaking, it's the so-called "rust" that's actually on top).

Now, my next step wasn't so well thought-out.  I applied a bit of dirty wash from the base of the paint-brush water jar to grey and grunge things up a bit ... but mostly it pooled into the striation troughs on the hood, *emphasizing* those details I'd prefer to gloss over.  So, I'm likely going to have to go back and do some more spackling to hide that.

 

43893e5ccbec634b4733cd100c0aad9673e6ab7c

^^^

Here's a view of the back.  I couldn't find any clear place to put the license plate, so I just Tacky-Glued it on where I imagined a rear bumper really should have been.

 

I pondered using the Dremel to do some damage to the windows, but the trouble is that I've had some bad experiences with the PLA filament suddenly "string-cheesing" when I try to grind or cut it -- or, in some cases, MELT and make a gooey mess (and require quite a bit of work to clean up the Dremel head afterward).  So, I just decided to go with *painting* on some cracks for the windows, alternating between dark Pavement Gray, mid-tone Zinc Gray, and lighter Granite Gray to spell them out.

 

f8fb8c5e20ac6198ffd0c4e3e20801922c6d42db

And here's a view of the bottom.  The PLA filament looks especially stringy on the bottom -- when I tried sanding that area, some of the filaments started stringing off, and it looked like there'd be no end to that without tearing it up and having to rebuild with putty, so I decided to put it off for now in the interests of getting this thing to a point of being usable on the table. 

The undercarriage piece is just held in with a bit of Tacky Glue, with the notion that I might pop it back out later to do some more work: I thought it might be amusing to add some "twisted metal" and such to the top of the undercarriage piece (presently hidden, and not detailed) so that I could use it to represent the charred remains of the car after it has been blown up.  (In Fallout, intact cars have a terrible tendency to catch fire if you hit them a few too many times with weapons -- and then, a very short while later, they blow up in a big mushroom cloud and irradiate the nearby area.  BEWARE when exploring a parking lot or highway cloverleaf jammed with still-intact cars.  If there's a sniper, taking cover behind one of the cars will NOT help you.)

P.S., the terrain board here is a Secret Weapon Miniatures "Urban Streets (Damaged)" Tablescapes board.  The buiding facade in the background is a repainted Toy Story 3 playset.

  • Like 9

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

restored_corvega_coupe_by_jordangreywolf

 

Here's the resin version, after I added some tires with some epoxy putty (basically by flattening out some strips of putty, and then wrapping them around the wheel rims, and cutting off the excess).  Later on, I may go all "Mad Max" on this with some armor plating, window screens, mounted weapons, etc. ... but for that I might need to do some more drastic conversion to the undercarriage.  The wheel wells don't really allow much space for big wheels, so the car is quite the low-rider.  That's very problematic in a post-apocalyptic environment without construction crews maintaining the roadways (as this terrain board drives home, in that I can hardly position the car without its belly wobbling over a jagged edge of broken pavement).  Instead, I think I may just keep this in "quasi-pristine" condition either as a display car for a "Chryslus Show-Room" location, or else as someone's pet project in a garage (or in "Vault 66").

  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By SamuraiJack
      https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/625262290/3d-printable-fantasy-ruins?ref=discovery_category_newest
       
      Story
      Here is my collection of fantasy ruins the can be 3D printed for tabletop games.
      The pledges will be delivered as STL files for you to print on your home 3D Printer.
      Disclaimer: i do not own a 3d printer yet so i have not test printed these models, if you find any error let me know and i will sort out the meshes for you.
      All models have been checked for errors in mesh-mixer and a couple of them will need to be sliced to fit onto smaller build plates some of them already fit onto a 300 x 300 mm plate.
    • By Rob Dean
      I haven’t really been getting a lot of painting done, but I sat down at my painting desk the other day and noticed that I had two buildings sitting over in one corner, neglected for a couple of months, and decided to start adding paint.
       
      This one is from Apocalypse Miniatures.  They ran a Kickstarter back in 2017, and my brother and I both ended up backing this.  In my case, I backed it to the extent of 10 buildings, of which this is the second I have finished. The first was back in November.
       
      In general, this wasn’t too bad to paint.  The little detail bits molded into the base look nice in the pictures, but I would really prefer that they were not sculpted in; it detracts from the flexibility of the building somewhat.  Sizewise, these are a little small for Reaper figures, and are probably intended for a 28mm scale (e.g. Metal Magic, mid-period Citadel, later Ral Partha), but that’s always negotiable when deploying scenery.  This building is a SOLID block of resin, so the game will be played around it rather than through it, and I would as soon buildings in that mode be a bit underscale anyway.  When I say solid, I put it on my kitchen scale, and it’s just a bit over two pounds (935g for those in countries with sensible measurement systems).  You wouldn’t want to drop it on your toe.
       

       
       

       

       

       
      As for the building name, that’s how it is spelled on their web site...
       
    • By Lidless Eye
      Recently completed: The Shipwreck 3D printed from the Kickstarter set Depths of Savage Atoll, by EC3D Designs.


    • By Inarah
      Coming in March.
       
      "3D printable STL files for RPG / wargaming - support-free minis, terrain, and vehicles for your Scifi and Cyberpunk game tables."
       

       

       
       
       
      https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/ecaroth/the-ignis-quadrant-3d-printable-tabletop-models?fbclid=IwAR1Qe9ssykZnV46G-nOv7it4jq_Flry7L4Fufx8_wFOl_-AkRt8Poj8eesQ
       





       
       
    • By Thrym
      Wire Tree
      Scratch Built
       
      The Twist
       
      One Friday evening as we played Batman: Talisman I twisted a tree to life.  Formed from 13 strands of wire of approximately 12-inches in length, the tree takes shape by folding them in half and twisting the loop created into the trunk of the tree.  The loop created is cut into the roots and the longer tendrils are twisted into limbs and branches to form the crown of the tree.
       

       
      As you can see in the picture, I used one of my Armstrong sample tiles to make a base for the roots and glued it in place with some Loctite Gel Glue.  The idea is to form irregular surfaces to cover and create the illusion of a real trunk, roots and limbs.  The crown will kind of solve itself when the canopy is applied later.
       
      The Ground and Bark
       
      Once you have a "skeleton" for the tree, it's time to add the skin.  To do this there are a number of ways.  You can use liquid latex.  You can apply green putty or green stuff.  I chose to do the super glue and baking soda method.  You've probably seen my work with this insta-cure method before on Frulla Krung and other Frost Giants.
       
      I use super thin, insta-cure cyanoacrylate (super glue) that allows it to run well over the wires and base and then coat that with the baking soda. The squeeze bottle, shown in the background, allows me to apply it as a wind blown sediment or just to dust it over the glue. The opposite can be done where you make a pile of baking soda or fill the crevice you want covered and apply the super glue carefully so you don't get an impact crater.  Of course, maybe you want impact craters.
       

       
      As you can see above, the effect is quite "chilling."  Be careful of fumes.  It's still super glue.  And super-thin super glue runs everywhere so I suggest putting down something you don't care about.  I use box lids.
       
      The Crown
       
      Once you have the coating applied to your liking, it's time to finalize the branches and make the crown.  Here's where random is your friend.  Twist the strands into limbs and then twist off the limbs into branches.  You can create burls and broken limb ends by adding sharp turns with your pliers.  In this case, I left the crown relatively open.  It's a small, young tree after all.
       
      You can see another much older tree in the works behind it below.
       

       
      Our specimen is primed as well.  I added curlicues at the ends of the branches to eat some excess wire and for extra hook points for the canopy. 
       
      The Canopy
       
      The next step after this is to paint the trunk.  I used a pair of FolkArt Pickling Washes to achieve this.  The first was a dark gray, FolkArt Stormy Sky.  To add body to the paint in order to help fill some of the wire gaps, I mixed in some Liquitex Matte Medium.  Once the basecoat was applied.  I drybrushed the trunk, roots and limbs with FolkArt Cottage White Pickling Wash mixed with some of the Stormy Sky mixture.  This gave me a nice light ashen color to the bark.
       

       
      The canopy is made from Woodland Scenics Tree Canopy Green and Yellow mixed with essentially some static grass I got off of Wish.  I mixed them into my Hamilton Beech Grinder and ground them down further.  You'll prolly have noted that there are some wires visibly still.  This has been noted.  I ran out of mixed canopy.  I will be making another batch shortly to finish it.  I used a spritz bottle of glue from Dollar Tree to apply the canopy.  It worked really well.  Once it was set, I used my favorite finish coat to solidify the canopy, Testors Dullcote. 
       
      What's Left
       
      That's where it's at as of now.  As to next, I will be doing a wash of the canopy to add shading to the tree.  That will carry down the trunk and roots.  Then I will apply an umber paint to the ground and a mixture of cork and bark, ground down in my grinder, over that.
       
      Stay tuned, Stay Well and Enjoy
  • Who's Online   31 Members, 4 Anonymous, 35 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...