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Jordan Peacock

Modiphius 3D-Printed Corvega Coupe Models

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Recently, Modiphius released an STL model of the Corvega Coupe, so fans can 3D-print their own (provided they have access to a 3D printer, of course).  I am fortunate enough to have a friend (Chris Thesing) who actually has *two* 3D printers.  He printed off two runs of the model: one in lower resolution on his older PrintrBot Plus printer (using Solutech PLA filament), and another using his newer, higher-resolution resin printer.




The PLA filament version of the model.  This model prints in two pieces -- one for the undercarriage and wheel hubs, and another for the upper body shell.  Alas, there are no tires, and no separate segments for the gull-wing doors, windows, hood, trunk, etc.  This was printed flat on the bed, and due to the low resolution this of course means a lot of striation on those gently curving surfaces.  (This is how it looked after an initial spritz of white spray primer, as the sheen of the bare plastic was problematic for taking photos of the detail, such as it is.)




On the right is the resin-printed version of the same model.  First off, it's a much higher resolution, but also Chris tried printing it at a 45-degree angle (supported by temporary scaffolding) as he's seen several others do.  I'm not quite sure about the advantages of doing this, but I think it makes a difference, because the curved surfaces of the hood, roof, and trunk are very shallow curves.  Actually, I think if the car were put up straight on its bumper, there'd be the best result, because each of the slices across the car would have a minimum variation of width from one to the next, versus the big jumps in footprint area to each layer when the car is printed right-side-up.  That's just my notion, however; there might be factors I'm unaware of that are contributing to this.


Anyway, on the left is the PLA car, but I've gone back with some sandpaper to try to smooth it out a bit.  The trouble is, I noticed that I'd utterly *destroyed* the shallow scribing detail of the gull-wing doors on the roof, and I was in danger of obliterating the Chryslus symbol on the hood and other such things, so I called it quits after a bit, and hoped I could make up for it by camouflaging the striation with "rust paint" effects.





Here's a side-by-side of the two models now that each one is a little closer in terms of where I am in the process.  The green car on the left is the PLA model (you can still see the striation despite my sanding), whereas the resin one is the red one on the right.  I went in and painted the window areas and chrome detail in grey, and splashed some paint on the PLA undercarriage in preparation for making it look a bit rusted out.  At this point, I pretty much decided that the resin car is going to look pretty much intact, though a bit grungy, with the thought that it's a car that's been restored Post-War, or has somehow otherwise been kept in relatively good condition.  (I could after all use it as a "show car" for my "Chryslus Show Room" scenario.)



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(Huh.  For some reason that's displaying as a LOT larger here than the other pictures.  Oops.)


Anyway, I went to town with the rust effects on this one.  First off, I painted some large blotches of Pavement Gray for the "rusty" areas.  I then used a smaller bushy brush to spackle with Pumpkin Orange and then a few specks of Golden Yellow.  I lined the "rust spot" areas with lighter Granite Gray in hopes of making it pop and suggest that there might be a layer difference between the remaining flecks of paint and the exposed metal underneath (even though, physically speaking, it's the so-called "rust" that's actually on top).

Now, my next step wasn't so well thought-out.  I applied a bit of dirty wash from the base of the paint-brush water jar to grey and grunge things up a bit ... but mostly it pooled into the striation troughs on the hood, *emphasizing* those details I'd prefer to gloss over.  So, I'm likely going to have to go back and do some more spackling to hide that.




Here's a view of the back.  I couldn't find any clear place to put the license plate, so I just Tacky-Glued it on where I imagined a rear bumper really should have been.


I pondered using the Dremel to do some damage to the windows, but the trouble is that I've had some bad experiences with the PLA filament suddenly "string-cheesing" when I try to grind or cut it -- or, in some cases, MELT and make a gooey mess (and require quite a bit of work to clean up the Dremel head afterward).  So, I just decided to go with *painting* on some cracks for the windows, alternating between dark Pavement Gray, mid-tone Zinc Gray, and lighter Granite Gray to spell them out.



And here's a view of the bottom.  The PLA filament looks especially stringy on the bottom -- when I tried sanding that area, some of the filaments started stringing off, and it looked like there'd be no end to that without tearing it up and having to rebuild with putty, so I decided to put it off for now in the interests of getting this thing to a point of being usable on the table. 

The undercarriage piece is just held in with a bit of Tacky Glue, with the notion that I might pop it back out later to do some more work: I thought it might be amusing to add some "twisted metal" and such to the top of the undercarriage piece (presently hidden, and not detailed) so that I could use it to represent the charred remains of the car after it has been blown up.  (In Fallout, intact cars have a terrible tendency to catch fire if you hit them a few too many times with weapons -- and then, a very short while later, they blow up in a big mushroom cloud and irradiate the nearby area.  BEWARE when exploring a parking lot or highway cloverleaf jammed with still-intact cars.  If there's a sniper, taking cover behind one of the cars will NOT help you.)

P.S., the terrain board here is a Secret Weapon Miniatures "Urban Streets (Damaged)" Tablescapes board.  The buiding facade in the background is a repainted Toy Story 3 playset.

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Here's the resin version, after I added some tires with some epoxy putty (basically by flattening out some strips of putty, and then wrapping them around the wheel rims, and cutting off the excess).  Later on, I may go all "Mad Max" on this with some armor plating, window screens, mounted weapons, etc. ... but for that I might need to do some more drastic conversion to the undercarriage.  The wheel wells don't really allow much space for big wheels, so the car is quite the low-rider.  That's very problematic in a post-apocalyptic environment without construction crews maintaining the roadways (as this terrain board drives home, in that I can hardly position the car without its belly wobbling over a jagged edge of broken pavement).  Instead, I think I may just keep this in "quasi-pristine" condition either as a display car for a "Chryslus Show-Room" location, or else as someone's pet project in a garage (or in "Vault 66").

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