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Reaper Bones 5: Enthusiasm and Commentary thread


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5 hours ago, Brianuk said:

 

 

tear off equal parts (you need like a quarter of a pea size of each colour to fix most things on most human size minis) 

Keep your fingers wet when you roll it into a ball

Keep the scalpel blade tip/clay shaper/pin wet when you apply it and blend/shape it. 

 

 

green stuff doesnt need to be in equal amounts. different ratios give different drying times/hardness but being off even 15-25% will still harden, but will take longer or faster depending which colour it was that was in excess.

 

sanjay

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18 hours ago, PhantomAsh said:

not doing things is a well-known hallmark of ADHD

this is all too relatable.  it's why I have told myself some steps are okay to skip.  i'll get the most noticeable mold lines, but if i miss some, i can either attempt to remove them mid-paint, or just ignore them.  i almost never bother with gap filling, and if I do, it's normally just the quick baking soda/super glue mix since that's what I have on hand for basing anyways.

And a note on basing.  This comes up all the time, I'm generally content with dealing with whatever Reaper throws at us.  I like the integrated bases.  It lets me choose if I want to spend effort on a mini, or just slap some paint on and go.  With most of the broccoli bases, I just glue them to a round base and use some baking soda/super glue to blend the edges into the base.  Very rarely I will use some GS to sculpt the base out to fill the space.  with oversized bases, I'm content with finding a larger round base that they'll fit.  I think I used a 40mm base on the aforementioned Bones 4 Chaos Warrior.  It doesn't "fit" the scale for gaming, but it doesn't break the game either.  I'm willing to overlook the size issue.  I also don't mind the integrated oval bases.  They're really nice for a quick paint job.  Plus they already have the "rim" so I don't feel compelled to glue them to any kind of base.  The only bases I seem to really dislike are integrated and plain like on the villager set for Bones 5, and those goofy blocky wooden bases on some of the pirates in Brinewind. 

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4 minutes ago, R2ED said:

For the love of God!   I just read a report of Maersk shipping coming from China just lost 750 containers.   Please, please, please let that have nothing to do with our shipments....

 

Seems to be a common theme thou in regards to Reaper, as they did have some stuff lost due to a shipping accident last year. Hopefully this one didn't have anything Reaper related on it.

 

12 hours ago, Brianuk said:

Green stuff world is fine to use so long as you,

 

tear off equal parts (you need like a quarter of a pea size of each colour to fix most things on most human size minis) 

Keep your fingers wet when you roll it into a ball

Keep the scalpel blade tip/clay shaper/pin wet when you apply it and blend/shape it. 

 

Bones tend to stick together really well without it but it's brilliant for sticking to separate limbs on metal minis to help them set, with superglue on the limb and on the body to help it all stick. 

 

One of the easiest things to do is take your tool tip & draw it across the side of your nostril. The grease from your skin works in a pinch.

 

Also, if you mix too much, just take your excess & sculpt with it. It'll get you more adept at working with that material. It doesn't have to be Werner Klocke* or Sandra Garrity quality, just stuff you can practice on.

 

Also I haven't seen it yet, but the ribbon Green Stuff, take a knife & cut the colors apart when you get it & store each color in separate containers. Where the colors touch is already mixing, best to prevent that. Easier still is too get the tubes that come separate already. It's been years but Mini Market screwed up a order & put in 2 large tubes of green stuff in my order. I was like great, then I was like, oh wait ah minute, I don't sculpt.....:lol:

 

*I've watched the man at ReaperCon class sculpt out side pack with a buckle on it, show the class, turn the thing into a head & say it wasn't worth keeping in about 10 mins. Ha ha.

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Well, the gist of the latest update is that shipping may go really well....or it may not. Know one know for sure.  ::P:

 

Also , the US, UK, and Australia hubs are all independent and each will start shipping, by Waves, when they’re ready, regardless of when the the other two hubs are ready.

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1 hour ago, Chris Palmer said:

Well, the gist of the latest update is that shipping may go really well....or it may not. Know one know for sure.  ::P:

 

Also , the US, UK, and Australia hubs are all independent and each will start shipping, by Waves, when they’re ready, regardless of when the the other two hubs are ready.

 

Nice that they separated it out a bit more this time. Seemed like Australia was waiting forever last time, but if they have their own hub for Oceania that will help. And I think it is good to start fulfilling as soon as possible independent of the other hubs - get more people their stuff faster.

 

Hopefully the shipping container troubles will be sorted out, but eh, at least we know what's up now.

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On 1/21/2021 at 7:50 AM, Adrift said:

For gap filling I use Golden Molding Paste. Squish some in a gap, plug in the piece, use scraping tool to remove surface excess you don’t want or blend it in with the surrounding miniature’s features. Dry 24 hours and paint right on top of it. Best stuff on earth. 


Do you use glue as well?

11 hours ago, MoonglowMinis said:

  i almost never bother with gap filling, and if I do, it's normally just the quick baking soda/super glue mix since that's what I have on hand for basing anyways.

Using backing soda and super glue sounds like a great solution to finding the perfect filler.  What would the ratio be for soda:glue?

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3 hours ago, Jodie said:

Using backing soda and super glue sounds like a great solution to finding the perfect filler.  What would the ratio be for soda:glue?


Enough to “dampen” the whole amount of baking soda with the cyanoacrylate. I usually sprinkle the soda on the glue; IIRC, the glue doesn’t flow into the soda at all, because as soon as the liquid surface touches the soda, it hardens. Basically just put on your glue, place the piece, then sprinkle on the baking soda. Just dump it on, and the cyanoacrylate will be the limiting reagent. After the reaction stops (it does take ~15 seconds to fully cure all the way through), you can just brush off the unreacted baking soda with a makeup brush or whatever. 
 

Both ingredients are cheap enough, it would be easy to experiment a bit with popsicle sticks, or something similar, to get a better idea of amounts to shoot for. 


The compound it creates is workable with files and sanding sticks, so if you end up with a glob of crusted CA glue, you can remove it or refine it easily. 

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I used to take a small amount of baby powder, like a teaspoon worth, and add a drop of glue.  The quickly mix with a toothpick and pick up the whole blob of glue and apply. Working time is about ten seconds.  You could also use cornstarch.  As already mentioned, cheap ingredients and easy to experiment with. 

 

 

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